what did you do to your vfr today?

Yea the lighting even on the red VFRs can range from pink to orange depending on the wave length of the light.

 

Rain stopped, sun was out, went for ashort ride to try a really good fish and chips place. Felt realy good to get out and wind her up, love that quick shifter.

 

Took a guicky since I've not ridden in a month

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Thats a slippery slope there also nice too.

 

But those tar snakes? Oooo

 

Only in the summer they get slimy, a little dirt from the rains was all


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I blame Obama...

 

I did some riding, but just errand type stuff. Freeways and streets. Clover leaf on and off ramps are fun tho. Got a ride Sunday with the local Duc club. 73° that day. Gunna be so nice!

Duccmann, you busy Sunday? Anyone else wanna join? VFR represent... Especially since Duc is going V4....

 

Well the new chain and sprockets arrived at the same time with the new heated grips... all done yo!

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Good job Jen


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AM,
Get some disposible Nitrile gloves for working on the bike - your hands will thank you.. I leave 2 or 3 sets under the seat for road repairs - you might want to leave a few more - lol.

 

Those are grimy pistons AM!
Nothing a toothbrush and brake cleaner won't fix.
+ 1 on the disposable gloves, use them all the time now.

I installed a PCIII to my 2001 on Friday night, programmed it and went for a ride today to see if it made a difference.
I have spent a lot of time modifying and setting up my suspension/brakes over the last 2 years.
I had it a thousand times better than stock but could not dial out the forward backward pitch coming off brakes and applying throttle at apex, in reverse coming off throttle and applying brakes.
If I made it better with different shim stacks and oil height, I introduced front end harshness which I didn't want.
I wasn't expecting a lot with the PCIII, but was very suprised at the outcome.
It is a different bike. I'm a realist and don't think it has given me any more power, but what it has done is smooth the off idle response by a considerable margin, it has also made it a much more linear torque curve by getting rid of the mid revs dip.
Sadly our 5th gens suffer from 1st generation fuel injection on/off throttle, it doesnt have that smooth transition of a carburated bike.
It is so much better now at fine tuning throttle position and tight corner handling.
I can now have just enough dive to load the front tyre, got rid of the front end harshness and better pitch control through better throttle response.
I'm using the European 00/01 map with open muffler and O2 eliminators from Dynojet site.
I know a dyno tune will take it further, but here in Oz its around $400, so it will have to wait.

 

Well I installed the 12v power socket under the seat of my 8th gen today.

The kit has two wiring harnesses. An shorter harness with 3 plugs and then a very long 2 wire extension that goes to the back of the socket. When installed under the seat in the recommended location, the short harness reaches the power socket by itself so there is no need for a 1.2metre length extension cable to join to the socket that's right next to it.

Being a handy bloke with a soldering iron, I shortened the extension cable down to about 10cm in length for a lot less clutter under the seat.

 

Rode it.... hard, well not to much, but still was fun.. Sorry Duckie no photos this time.

 

Could have sworn i had a stator flywheel puller tool so i'm stuck on that, ah well m22x1.5 motion pro doodle was $9 on amazon and should be here in a couple days. I'll be on vacation next week so it'll be waiting for me when i get back to finish up the charging system.

Got quite a bit done with the front suspension but i'm calling it for tonight. I'm trying to figure out if the compressed forks are supposed to be different lengths or not. The trac side is for sure different internally, but still i would think that if the shop manual calls for fluid up to 5.9" from the top while compressed that they would be the same length or that it would mention that? It does say to use one side uses more fluid because of trac though. Holes all drilled per racetech gold valve instructions, new bushings/sliders in place, etc, just not lining up right enough for me to be confident fillin em up.


I found a forum post talking about leaving the antidive guts in against racetech's instructions but that didn't seem to make a difference for me, lengths still don't match.
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...fork-emulators?p=262193&viewfull=1#post262193

Here are the damper rods pushed in all the way installed per racetech guide. I'm not sure if the damper rods are what is bottoming out at full compression, but if i leave the springs/clips out the trac side goes in way more.



If i install the clips/springs that racetech says to leave out it ends up looking like the other side pretty much when you actually force it in and compress the spring.



On the plus side i'm getting way faster at figuring out if the damper rod is seated. If i do it upside down and shove it all together and the bottom bolt gets knock up she's ready to go. Took quite a few stabs before i figured that out. When i pulled it all back apart for inspection it took way less time to go back together haha
Hard to tell but the bottom bolt did not move so it wasn't seated, try again:


Ah here we go the bottom bolt got pushed up, tighten that thing up

 

This is EXACTLY my experience.

I, too, have yet to get it dyno tuned. I will soon, as the holidays got in the way, but even as it is now it's the best bang for the buck I've done.

I put my PCIII in after syncing the throttlebodies, new plugs, and generally getting the bike as smooth as possible off the closed throttle. It was just about unrideable when I got it, the starter valves were so far out of synch. It wouldn't even idle at less than 1800, and stumbled below 3000-3500. When I was done it was a kitten and everything seemed OK, but dammit if it wasn't all the work in the world to get back on the throttle in first without a surge.

I also HATED the fuel saver mode with a fiery passion. I'd be cruising at 55 and the thing would slow down, I'd add more throttle, it'd slow down more, I'd add more throttle, then it would eventually detect the throttle being over the threshold and I'd get a surge like I'd just twisted the throttle quickly. Fuck that. On a flat, straight road I shouldn't have to work so hard to keep speeding up and slowing down somewhere near the speed I want to ride.

The resistors solved the fuel saver mode. That's all the exhaust sensors are for, actually.

The PCIII was an absolute MIRACLE for throttle response tuning. The fueling was so far off all around I can't say -- even with the stock 2001 map I get better mileage and don't hear loud bangs on deceleration -- but that first hit coming off the starter valves is almost gone, and very mild from there on up. It's tractable all the way down to idle, smooth, and predictable. No idea what the HP numbers are, but I don't care as I ride on the street. I spend hours in the lower and middle RPMs for every second I spend with the throttle pinned in the power band. Smooth and predictable down low is the thing for me.

I was never much of a believer in this sort of thing until I attempted to live with the stock mapping on my 2001. They didn't make things better in 2000 with the new exhaust and fueling, they made an already quirky system worse. In this case, money VERY well spent.

 

Heading into yet another heatwave for the next week so when the temp dropped this afternoon I headed for the shed to work on the VFR.

I replaced, flushed, the brake fluid of the front brakes and the combined, linked, front/rear brakes. Whatever colour brake fluid is in there I always pick a different colour to replace it with, is easier to see the new fluid coming through.

When pumping the foot brake to push the old fluid through, this goes for all 5 valves outlets, once you see the new fluid in your syphon tube periodically and repeatedly lock the bleed valve down and with a bit of vigour stamp on the brake several times before releasing the bleed valve and pumping more fluid through. That shifts the old fluid around in the system that would otherwise get trapped. After doing that you'll see more old fluid coming through and maybe even bit of debris if the fluid hasn't been replaced regularly. Keep doing that until the fluid clears.

When pumping the fluid through on the front brakes, by the hand lever, it's best not the pull the lever all the way into the handle bar grip to where the plunger does not normally travel to when you apply the brakes, otherwise the seal my become damaged.

My Haines manual says it's impossible to get to the rear brake bleeder valves, it says the brake calliper has to come off.

I was able to get around that, with a short 8mm spanner, it will get to the bleeder nuts to open and close them easy enough and a pair of long, long nose pliers will help to get the bleeder tube on the valve. Saves time pulling all the other things apart... :tongue-new:

Just some observations I've made when doing this maintenance, I hope someone finds this useful.

 

I rode it and took some pics.

 

Good and tidy setup you have there. Is the socket like a cigarette type connector? Is that where you can have a USB adaptor plugged into it? How do you use it to a mounting point for say a phone or gps?

I've been wanting a power source where I can charge my phone on my 5th gen. Looked on eBay, too many things to choose from and none the wiser for a suitable solution for my VFR. Do you have any tips for what I can do?