Cleaning brake calipers

Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to get caked on brake dust of a caliper?
I bought some second hand gold CBR954 front calipers for my VTR lowers I'm installing, but they are very dirty and I can't say I've been successful at getting it off.
Tried brake cleaner and degreaser with stiff brush, but nothing much works.

 

I have no idea if it is a good idea to use it on your calipers, but here you can get a spray on product for cleaning caked on brake dust of the rims of your car. I took over a Camaro company car several years ago that had nearly 100 K miles on it. The only cleaning it got prior to me was a zip through the auto car washes. SO needless to say, the brake dust was really caked badly in the recesses of the wheels. I HATE BRAKE DUST!. Used this stuff and it was very good. Deep in the corners, I had to agitate with a mechanics brush and there were a couple spots I could not get off but otherwise it worked great.

Worth a look and consideration. Also. Talk to your dentist and see if you can get an old dental pik for getting at deep corners. Artists and furniture or wood restoration peeps use these a lot.

 

Same issue here with calibers I got for the de-link. I used parts cleaning solvent and a few just right brass and nylon bristled brushes, tooth brush size, not to firm to hurt the finish was the idea, yet firm enough, as they cleaned up, I switched to a lighter bristle, then along with a pressure washer. I still need to get a couple of the bolts replaced, just to much rust inside those tork screws that won't come out, other wise all is pretty good.

 

ReBuild

I would strip'em, Sandblast, Repaint (VHT High temp Caliper Paint), replace bolts with Stainless Steel (eBay) and replace those rusty Banjo Bolts with Stainless Steel:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2x-Motorcycle-Stainless-Brake-Banjo-Bolt-10mm-M10-x-1-00-Caliper-Master-Cylinder-/371514953817?hash=item5680045059:g:GAMAAOSwv0tVbDJq&vxp=mtr

Use Lithium Grease on reassembly, will look Great and Last,,.. do it right.

 

I have had good results using a brass wire brush, seems to be soft enough to leave the finish alone unless you get very aggressive with it.

Same on the pistons, I also (gently!) grab the very end of the piston with pliers and rotate it so I can clean right around.

 

What is this unobtanium called?

 

https://youtu.be/eJYJjo_LT_g

I don't know if this will work, but there's this.

 

That's the spirit!

 

As I need to clean my calipers and some other metal bits on my bike, I may try this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=929586

 

Definitely try that stuff (Prosoco 600) on a small inconspicuous area first. The OP stated that his wheels are clear coated & that could make a huge difference. Your calipers are probably just powder coated.

 

Yeah, I'd definitely do as you say. What if love to do is get them vapor blasted. I think it could look cool in a shiny natural metal color and have the Nissin letters in black.

 

Thanks all.
I have tried a plastic brush without much success. I'll find a small brass one and see how I go.
I have new SS banjos already with my new braided lines.
I've already cleaned the Pistons, most of the crap is where you can't see it, I'm not going to the expense of blasting/powder coating, don't have the patience, and here in Oz they want too much money.
They look better in real life than the photo.
I now have all the parts, so the next few weekends I'll do the swap over. I just need to make guard adapter brackets as the drawings sent by Cadbury, thanks again mate.
Can't wait to get all that unsprung weight of my front wheel.
I've also developed great new shim stacks that works fantastic.
I'll post once it's all done and tested.

 

Well, I had to go away for the weekend so I left them soaking in heavy duty degreaser in a plastic bag.
Today I brushed them with a brass brush and then hosed them.
Came out very nice.
I've now pulled them appart to properly clean them and decided they are good enogh to reassemble as is.
Pistons are like new as are seals.

BTW, calipers are gold anodised, not powder coated.
It would be a pain to PC, as you wold need to cover all openings, and it would interfere with some tolerances.

 

Make sure you double check the measurements for the adapters. Mine work OK but appear to be putting some strain on the upper mounts for the guard. This was cracked when I bought the bike but the bracket looks to be making the cracks worse. Don't tell anyone, but I'm working towards fitting a CBR600F4 forks to the VFR now, already got the forks and bars, now looking for triples and a new guard...