Bike Battery DED

so, actually im not hitting ~14v.
I tested my battery, extensively, and that is fine. ~12.5v fully charged and ~11.5v when its not running... except its at ~11.5v when it is running too.
At 5k RPM i was only hitting 12.05 and when I tested my Stator rails I was at ~6v per rail and thats right...

Update:
...yup

 

Fresh, just waiting for the gasket to show up

 

my battery is still dying but for different reasons. since im the noob here i guess, let me be the prime example to redo your wiring if you havnt already...

new stator was fine for a little bit then, battery died again.

i verified my front harness was replaced via the recall, if " blue connector, green wire ground, issue" sounds familiar...

i do have a second hand battery, but im pretty sure thats not it. (which will also be replace eventually)

will be ordering a The Super Mosfet Kit FH020AA kit from roadstercyle shortly and probably a bluesea eventually too as I do want to add more electronics.

I have seen the wire-ups about doubling up grounds and runs from the R/R and that'll also happen.

13.8v at 5k, pretty much always 13.8 unless idle, so bad R/R now. (so i thought)
but im not even getting 4v from the stator rails now.
~2.9
~0.8
~3.2

and im not making it over 12v at he battery, so now i guess my stator burned up again!

All in all, this wiring does suck... re-do it.

also:



I had melted the 30a fuse and my fuel pump stopped. "That was fun!"

fix your wiring

 

Did you take Norm's advice and do the drill before installing the new parts? I am wondering if the system has a short that you need to first identify. Put the ol' ammeter between the negative terminal and negative cable (bike off) and it should be < 3 mA.

 

so after the melted fuse i found my stator looking like this after just 2 months



so i returned it on a warranty and im currently redoing my wiring harness to actually fix the issue.

I have seen this diagram of "Beefing up wires" but its not quite right.



The monitor wire connects to 1 lead of the R/R and then splits off and connects again?!? its dumb.



monitor wire is on the bottom, the top connection is for the front harness which isnt important, basically it just loops to the other connector and taps off for power to the front.



under the front cowl however is where the issue is since the 1 R/R lead goes to the battery and the other does not and thats how you end up with a melted wire...

SO... im just going to run the other R/R lead to the battery like it should be.

The other write ups dont modify the factory harness, just the R/R while adding to the factory wiring.
I ripped mine apart to do it once and have it rewrapped with my factory harness.

While other people have 3 battery leads (adding to stock) i will only have 2, however i dont see it being an issue as the rest of it wiring holds up except for this 1 lead. (thats not even commoned)

I have a Blue sea 6 fuse block im going to mount and will likely have 1 side filled 2 R/R leads and a monitor wire.
The monitor im not sure how i want to run yet tho since not all after market R/Rs have a monitor wire, so i dont want to have to have it as fixed as my other R/R charge wires.





Im not a dumby and i dont neglect my vehicles, just taking a bit to learn all the odds and ends to this bike and get a grasp on whats going on and what needs to be done. I will never sell this bike, so its me n it till the end.
(I do love my bike, so dont hate me for being a noob)

 

Sounds like you have it all worked out now, good luck with it

 

Just wanted to follow up on how the rewiring went.

Got a new connector with my replacement stator, so i didnt solder them this time:


The new factory harness, modified:


With Blue Sea fuse block:


8g wire at the battery:


My bike is a daily during the season and I havent had an issue so far however, when at idle i do notice my lights dim compared to even 1.5k.
Technically neither wire i ran goes straight to the battery without some kind of load on it.
My other thought is to run a common from both straight to the block, without interference but worried it will melt a wire again.
Its been stable so far and my battery isnt the greatest atm, but i will be ripping into it during the winter so maybe i will revisit.

 

Bucket loads of advice given to you here and still you used a connector once again

 

and thats also with stock wiring and after a blown stator