Kansas to Prince Rupert, BC, Canada or Bust!

Moraine lake is a wonderful place. I think it's photo is on the back of one of the Canadian paper monies. I have climbed Mt Temple and looked down on it, amazing beauty. Glad your having good weather for this part of your trip.

 

I kinda remember that. We change our paper money so many times it is hard to keep track. But we don't have paper money anymore. It is plastic now. Clear see through sections. The one dollar denominations is a coin and so it the $2. Moose Jaw Hoer money. Pennies....gone...yah.

 

Keep the photos coming AM. Glad the rest of your trip is continuing on with fun, excitement, and more breath taking scenery.

 

When you were here, you had removed that switch casing did you not? I didn't see what was going on, but helped hold it in place while your were replacing it. Were you actually looking at the workings of that switch? If that switch was faulty, that could explain a constant draw that would also lead to the heat problem.

 

That could very well be the culprit:

The 'BL' wire is the supply wire to the bike. Haven't had my 6th gen for a couple of years.

 

No. I have over 300lbs on my bike in gear. Didn't bottom once or rub. My preload is maxed front and rear.

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I'll take a look myself at her electrical as well when she gets here. Hopefully on Wednesday so we can ride for a day.

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I only ask because my 5th gen has a JD sourced CBR929 rear shock and the main wire look comes down the left side of the bike and it is VERY tight between the inside of the main frame spar and the edge of the remote reservoir on the shock. If I load too much weight on the bike the shock moves slightly rearward as it compresses. Not much but if there was extra weight plus linkage movement maybe something is being pinched I in behind where it can't be easily seen.

When end I was at Randy's on the weekend I was looking at the wiring diagram and the wire, which was getting very hot, routes up behind the dashboard (where she heard noises) and then into a switch block but I can't remember which one. As Randy mentions, maybe a faulty start switch could be causing havoc everywhere. Wouldn't be hard to get some moisture into that switch assembly if you spent long enough in the driving rain, and lord knows AM hasn't been riding in any rain. LOL. Maybe a bit of excess moisture and dirt has collected in the switch pod lower assembly and is getting in the way of the contacts. Maybe some preventative maintenance like removing switch assembly and spraying in some contact cleaner making sure it is cleaned out.

Really do despise intermittent electrical issues.

 

OK then. So what I am seeing in that diagram is that there is power going to two switches side by side. One switch is normally open while the other is normally closed. When the normally open switch is close during the start process, the other switch should mechanically go to the open position preventing power through both switches at the same time. The power to these two switches is from the same source. Hence that black dot indicating those wires actually splice and not just go around each other. (electrical schematics seem to have changed a bit since my school days).

I assume one of those switches acts as a starting position while the other as a running position. Naturally you want the starting switch closed when engaging the starter yet to release soon as you release the starter button at which time the run switch would close. If they both remained closed, as in one was sticking or faulting, then you have double the amperage going to the same location which would cause the wires somewhere in the system to heat up more than they should, much like what AM is experiencing near the battery. That would make zoom-zooms suggestion that the next step would be to take apart that switch and clean it up. Once apart, one should be able to see signs of the problem in the contacts. Maybe a new switch might be needed.

I would think that repeated testing of that switch with an ohm meter with the switch in both positions should indicate there is a problem. In one position, there should be resistance in one switch and not the other, while if the switch is in the next position, the resistance should also be opposite to the first test.

 

Hot Wire

When her bike was in my garage, it performed perfectly. Started immediately, sounded fine.
I wish it woulda failed,,.. I gots the know how and tools to run it down, Pit Bull Mode.
What we did do was remove a short wire that went to the 30A fuse under the seat.
She said it would get so Hot it burned her finger, yet it was not discolored.
Newer Insulation can take the heat, but it shouldn't even get Warm.
We removed the brass from both Plastic Shells, cleaned, reformed for more Pinch, and Soldered.
Assembled and Tested OK.
No connector or Wire should get Hot or even Warm.

I was looking at the Throttle Switch Asm, as the Throttle Twist was a little sluggish.
Woulda taken that all apart, cleaned, lubed, assembled, tested,,..
But we were Outa Time, were up late, and up early, and gone.
Dems new-fangled bikes got a CPU that runs the bike, and if it ain't happy,,..
This may not be worth much, but it seems to act up only when its Warm/Hot?

Photos coming,,.. still processing,,..

 

AM have you checked the side stand sensor and wiring there? I have seen all sorts of weird problems with them. Often after a fall or tip over.

 

No gas.....! If the time and location works, next time it does this, then take it apart and look, again if nothing pops up, re install and see what happens unfortunately this one sounds like some tinkering is going to be involved. and know where you has me SMH.. Damn..

 

Make sure if you are roll starting it, it is in a high gear. At least 4th. Might be time to stop and visit a Motorcycle Mechanic. Very hard to try and figure out over the Forum. Either that or no turning bike off, maybe for lunch and fuel, as necessary and ride straight home. I'd maybe even unhook your phone charger. Why would it get so hot, as to melt the end off of it? Could be an issue.

 

Dam, I have removed those side stand interloks, for racing. If you put a piece of wire across the leads it'll trick it into thinking the stand is up. Don't know if you wanna try that A.m.? A paper clip would work, or a piece of insulated wire, about 1" long. Tape it in place. Agree with RVFR, take the kill switch cover off and see if there is an issue in there. Loose wires, poor soldering, allowing wire contact to move. If you can, while bike is running, have that cover off and wiggle it around. See if it is hot or anything arcs. Shouldn't take much if it is the problem area. Or visit your friendly Honda Dealer. Might be time!

 

Wouldn't that "Bl" wire be just a low powered wire to operate the contact on a relay?

 

I think she has two separate problems, I cannot figure out how the starter switch assembly would have that effect on the Main Fuse B short harness.

for the R/Y wire or the R/W wire to get so hot as to burn a finger, requires a direct short to ground somewhere local to fuse B. If the short occurred further away, then the entire length of the wire would have gotten hot.

Has the wire gotten hot again after the new battery?

Here starting problems have more to do with interlocking switches or the kill switch assembly.

Just hope she can get somewhere to fix it.