Carb R & R, is there a specific sequence...?

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by RadVFR, May 11, 2016.

  1. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    I need to haul the carbs off the '86 VFR700F, clean the primary jets, possibly replace them, clean the rest of the bodies and install new bowl gaskets.

    The only real culprit at this time is the left/front carb, leaking bowl gasket but the throttle response indicates plugged low speed jets. I figure I might just as well rip them all off.

    Do the carbs separate individually or come off in pairs... er wot...? What should I watch for so as not to break stuff...?

    I guess while we're at it, is there a good starting point for the air mixture screws to be set at...? Stock air filter and an aftermarket can, I think it is a Two Bros but no markings.

    Thanks,
    Rob
     


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  2. Allyance

    Allyance Member

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    Carbs and aluminum plate come off as a unit, do not separate carbs from plate. After disconnecting choke and throttle cable, loosen ALL the bands on the rubber boots. Using a large blade screw driver, gently pry rubber away a little at a time from carbs. Shoot some WD-40 between rubber and carbs when you pry. Try rocking carb assembly back an forth to break them loose. Remember carbs and intake throats are at angles and the carbs only match up when seated all the way, as the carbs are lifted off they no longer align, so it takes some trial and error to get the hang of it. First time is a pain.
     


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  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    No need to separate the carbs from the airbox plate for a simple cleaning of jets. Idle mixture screws should be set at between 2 to 3 turns out.

    The worst breakage you can do is dropping the carb set onto a hard floor.

    Read ToeCutter's excellent guide to carb cleaning before you dig in.
     


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  4. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Ok, off as a unit, leave them on the plate.

    Are these rubbers the type with the notches that locate the position on the manifold...? I recall a Honda that did that, I want to say the Hawk GT but I am not certain. Takes all the guess work out of correct positions of the rubbers runners.

    So where do I find ToeCutter's guide...?

    Thanks,
    Rob
     


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  5. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Yes, see below:
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2016


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  6. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Yes, the OEM carb mounting boots have a 1/2" cutout where a tab on the carb fits and an indication "carb side". There are alot of replacement boots around now that aren't OEM.

    You need to download and study both TC's guide and the factory service manual to do a proper job of carb cleaning without doing any damage or screwing up.

    Search "carb cleaning" and i think tc's guide will appear. Probably a good idea to get new carb boots to use on the re-install.
     


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  7. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Great news on the notches... I am a pretty careful on removal especially when it is the first go 'round... I'll pay close attention.

    Copy that on not wanting to screw up or cause more damage.

    So I have searched here, snooped around TC's sig and posts and found the thread with the Carb Cleaning Guide (Called Cleaning Carbs oddly enough)

    Is there a consolidated guide or is the thread it... Can you point me to it...? Pretty straight forward carb work.. I do worry about the alignment for the reinstall...

    I love this line from the installation part of the dissertation : lol


    "This is a bitch the first five hudred times. Install the front carbs and tilt rear boots off engine to help mate with bad angle on carbs and attempt to show it some lovin.It may take more than one attempt and maybe a beer or ten. Does get easier after you do it a few times."

    Thanks,
    rd
     


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  8. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Well this falls into one of those "Good news, bad news" deals... I stopped and picked up a can of Seafoam and poured a bit into the 1/3 tank of fuel and shook it around, touched it off and let it run for a bit on full to half choke.

    The good, The fuel leak indeed seemed to vanish.

    The bad, The throttle response off choke indicates that I have an appointment with the carb removal gods. The low speed jets are certainly plugged, how could they not be...? Not a big ta-do..

    Any luck at all with it sitting over night the Seafoam might open them but, ahh, no... lol

    More later,
    Rob
     


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  9. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Nothing will unplug those jets except a strip down and clean
     


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  10. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Yeah, I get it... :rolleyes:



     


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  11. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Just to expand upon this, no chemicals, no soaking, no compressed air will open badly clogged idle jets better or more thoroughly than a .010-.012" steel wire inserted clear through.
     


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  12. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Yup. I prefer Martin but Ernie Ball, D'addario work just as well... :)

    This is a new jet from a Suzuki that I replaced after having pulled the plugged up buggers out of a GS 500 E...


    [​IMG]
     


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  13. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Well in an unfortunate turn of events, the owner does not want me to R & R the carbs for cleaning possibly replacing the jets as he feels there would not be sufficient return on investment to warrant that labor in the sale of the VFR... I may have shocked him quoting four (4) more hours to do that.

    Bummer too as I was really up for hauling them off, cleaning the primary jets and making her run right... :blue:

    It has such potential too, the sound alone of the Vee-4 firing off it soul stirring, I would love to have it dialed in correctly. Oh well, not my call.

    So now I will post an ad stating that the thing runs great up on the choke circuit and NEEDS the carbs cleaned. Great, that outta go over well. The people that can do this type of maintenance will not shy away from it rather have ammunition to haggle for a lower price. The people that have no idea what this entails and need to hire that work will not even look twice.

    That along with tatty bodywork this should fetch less than the owner is looking to get for it...:crazy:

    Thanks for the R & R tips guys...

    Best,
    Rob
     


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  14. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    So he bought an 86 and was expecting to get a return on his investment, somehow it doesn't work like that even if you do all the work yourself
     


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  15. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    How aboot a pic of this beast? :worthless: :photo:
     


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  16. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    I'm just CRUSHED Norm. Do you mean to say that bikes aren't an appreciating asset and that I've been throwing good money after bad....
    (ssshhh, don't tell my wife!)
     


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  17. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Sorry Cadbury to burst your bubble, but this is a fact of life and your wife is probably aware of this. Now if we had gone out and bought some of those GTHO phase 3 Falcons back in the early seventies we would now be rolling in the dough. I think they were about $5000 new back then, they can fetch $750,000.$1,000,000 these days
     


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  18. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Ahh, no. The VFR has been in the fellow's ride-in basement for years along with a bunch of other stuff, '78 CB750 and some other smaller Hondas and what not, I maintain his Guzzi for him and he asked that I get this going as he will never, ever ride it again. He has hip issues and all that...

    I implored him to let me go into the carbs but he said no, his motorcycle so I will put it all back together ta-day and put it on the block...

    As I stated before, it is a good argument, do you do the carbs and hopefully sell for a fair asking price or do nothing and give the perspective buyer(s) room for negotiation...?


    Photos when I have the panels back on TC...

    Ciao for now,
    Rob
     


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  19. hank.sd

    hank.sd New Member

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    Where is the bike located? Id love to have an 86 again.

    Sent from my TRS-80
     


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  20. RadVFR

    RadVFR New Member

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    Maine....
     


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