Diagnose My 5th Gen Charging Problem

So my battery started dying. I replaced the battery and BAM, it goes dead in a couple hundred miles. I buy a new RR and go for a few hundred more miles and BAM battery goes dead. My stator tests good and I can't see any burnt wires.

Is there harm in charghing the battery up then cutting out the plug and soldering the wires to give it another try before I replace the stator? Any chance I could burn up my new Ricks RR if the stator is bad? I figured I't try soldering the wires before I lay $$ out for new stator that I might not need. Like I said the old stator tests good but could it be flaking in and out? The bike has 24k on the factory stator.

**note**
The stator plug to the RR is a little discolored (yellowish brown) but not melted.

 

You must test for short circuits. Pull the black battery wire. Put an ammeter in between wire and battery. Set it to 1 AMP sensitivity, then lower the setting one at a time after reading the screen. 3mA or .003 AMP is normal and is also the max you should see. Anything higher means an unexpected drain.

If there is a drain then question any changes to the bike leading up to this.

You have a duplicate thread. Edit your other post. Select ADVANCED. Select DELETE POST if that is available.

 

I second what Mr. Knight mentions, plus did you do any testing with a digital meter letting you know what kind of charging or in this case not charging volts are?

 

Yes I have a meter. I tested everything before I changed the RR. I was a little fuzzy on testing the RR so I replace that just because. The stator was no problem to test. Voltage before I did anything was in the 14v range at the battery and the stator was reading good on all 3 phases. The battery only drains when its running (it sat for weeks and held a charge). Another member mentioned (in my duplicate post under 5gen) the stator either works or it don't. So I'm guessing it's not bad if I get good solid voltage from it and at the battery when running. I'm starting to think it's the plug or a short somewhere when it's warming up.

Does anyone here have a link the "The Drill" thread? I can't find it again and I believe it goes over proper testing procedures.
Knight, I'm guessing I can't test for drainage with this??

 

That web site is restricted from my view here at work. However I looked up the manual (good job with naming the picture appropriately). Do you see "ADC"? That is AMPS DC. Set it to 10 A to start, with the setup I stated above. If the current is so small it does not register, then move to 200m (1/5 amp), etc. You start at a high setting then move down to get a valid reading.

*** THE BIKE SHOULD BE OFF *** when you do this. The key should be off or not in the ignition.

 

Knight,
Yes it has ADC 2000, 20m, 200m and 10A. Thanks ill give it a try.

 

I've been through this process recently. I now have an R1 mosfet RR, hard-wired, and a switched voltmeter sitting on my triple clamp. I still had the battery go flat! I have a Motobatt battery relatively new. No corrosion or signs of corrosion. After exhaustive tests I decided to clean the battery terminals, even though they seemed fine. Positive result! Have had no problems since. Must be something to do with the brass connectors. I hope it is this simple for you.

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07-08-2012, 06:15 PM #9
mello dude mello dude is offline
Uber Guru
'

The Drill

-Looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.” --------
Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. The stator connector is the number one burn it up connector on the bike. - Your gonna have to fix that!

Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.

Steps: ---
- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

These are R/R quick checks---
--- With voltmeter at battery posts get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. (if in the 12s at idle, check at about 1900rpms instead. Its not unusual for the system to be in discharge at idle. )

- Check stator - These tests are done checking the connector that goes to the stator. (Engine off)
1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Connector still apart, engine off)

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings- (Again, connector apart) Repeat hot.

This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)
http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf
Last edited by mello dude; 01-03-2015 at 06:08 PM.

 

And there it is.... Cool.