Anyone have detailed explanation on how a PCIII USB works??

Hi All,

As above chasing detailed info on how the PCIII USB works before I ask a heap of questions that I may not need to once I have said info on the PCIII.

Stuff like....is it self learning and leaning out running rich changing parts on bike and not updating map...

Cheers

 

Hi! Is this your first post since joining?

The PC runs a static map. Take a look at it on the computer. It is a spreadsheet with a header of throttle position and a Y-axis of RPM. The data values are + or - indicating add or subtract fuel at each throttle/rpm value. The bike's ECU indicates to fuel at X rate. The PC interrupts that signal. It looks at the RPM and throttle position in the map, finds the trim (fuel change) and applies the change to the bike.

You may load a map that is closest to your hardware, aka model, year, air filter, and exhaust type. This will apply general settings to match the airflow of your hardware. Every individual engine has different character thus you may wish to tune it further. You may get a dyno done. They have commercial DynoJet software in combination with the Dynojet Dynomometer. They interface it with your PC, use gas analyzers in the exhaust as feedback, then make adjustments to your map.

Dynojet has the Autotune or Wide Band 2 hardware kits. These let you tune the bike yourself. I am not positive but I think these are made for the PCV and not your unit.

 

PC3 usb has no learning capabilities and is strictly open loop. You can only up load pre made dyno jet maps or make your own, via butt dyno or real dyno.

PCV does have an optional auto tune module and single wide band o2 sensor (dual is only for harley models), but this is more of a data logging system. It is still not, self learning or correcting, it only makes a table of suggestions based on your selected target air/fuel ratio. You must still manually insert these tables.

Rapid Bike Racing and Evo models, on the other hand, offer actual closed loop fuel tuning and will make changes on their own in real time. Rapid Bike Racing/Evo can use the two factory narrow band sensors or optional 1, 2, or 4 wide band o2 sensor set ups, via optional "MY TUNING BIKE".

 

What he said......^^^^

 

Say...what you talking about Willus? LOL. and the PC topic is still alive and well.

 

Yes it was my first post on here.
Cheers for the reply's guys.
Guess I should explain about myself first.
I have been playing with and riding bikes for awhile now, so I do have some understanding about the PCIII. Back in 09 I had a Pearl heron 05 with all the bits and pieces done, but I paid for a custom tune which netted me 105HP ATW.fast forward to today....marriage house kids divorce and here we are back for round 2 with a Winning Red 05.

The bike came with a PCIII o2 elim's and TBR V.A.L.E. setup and tune. I have since done the Pair block off /flapper mods and added a BMC filter.

I have put the map from my blue 05 in and it is running lean. My Blue VFR had K&N 02 elims and micron from cat back.
So what I was chasing was info on understand the numbers and general stuff like that.

What is +/- 10...? Im guessing a qty of fuel being added in or taken out.
What am I looking for within these numbers to find lean/flat and /or rich spots in the map?
I do plan on getting another custom tune done, just really wanting to understand what im paying for.

Feel free to throw your 2 bobs worth in or links to other threads/post.

Thanks in advance.

 

Why do you think you are running lean right now? Both the bikes that you described are still basically stock with slip ons.

You are not going to find any lean or rich spots, with out putting the bike on a dyno.

Also neither the kn nor the BMC are performance filters. They are just reusable factory replacement filters. Both of them have about 50% less surface area than the stock filter. If you want a performance filter, you need the pipercross filter.

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WELCOME to the forum!

Yes +/- reflects adding or subtracting fuel from the amount the ECU says should be delivered.


Why did you change the map? If the bike was previously tuned then the map that was tuned to the TBR setup is better than a map for a different exhaust setup.

The only change you made that has an effect on air flow is the BMC filter. It is unclear, based on the exhaust flow, how much additional air this is allowing over the prior filter (stock?). It may be some additional air, however the greatest increase in overall flow is due to the exhaust change that was previously done. Proof of this is that some stock maps show "stock air filter or aftermarket", aka, the fueling is the same for either air filter.

If I understand the setup correctly (let me know) the one thing left is to fine tune the fuel in the areas of the old map where the air filter change is allowing more air. Again, if the only change is the BMC air filter, I do not think (?) you would notice any deficiency with the prior map. If you do then I would question the prior tune, it may not have been good. It may have been a stock map and not custom tuned. Do you have paperwork or knowledge of the prior tuning process?

If the prior map was a good custom tune, and there are no operating problems, then you are looking at several hundred dollars for changes that you will never notice.

Is the engine bucking at partial throttle in the 3500-4000 range? If yes, get the starter valves tuned. Tune them for the smoothest idle. The final vacuum setting for this may differ slightly from the numbers in the service manual which are essentially a +/- range.

 

BMC and kn flow no additional cfm over stock. They are not performance filters for VFR applications. Slip ons do not flow much over the stock exhaust on the sixth gen.

The real bottle neck is the factory header and velocity stacks which were designed to bump low end torque up at the expense of top end HP and the ignition timing which was designed for using 87 octane, at the expense of low to midrange torque.

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I find it difficult to cruise.....as the bike want to slow down or speed up. making it difficult to sit on one speed along the freeway. Thus im thinking flat spot or its too lean.....

 

I was unsure of the tune when I picked the bike up from previous owner. It was running rich...very black exhaust. based on my Blue 05 I was getting 300+kms per tank on 98Ron. the Red 05 I cant get any more than 230kms per tank. So put the tune from my Blue 05 in hoping for a similar result. which is now difficult to maintain consistent speeds, My current air filter shouldn't make a difference or Very little if at all. The exhaust shouldn't make much difference either.

So im left thinking that the tune may be infact incorrect for my setup...but by how much.....??

The filter change is based on the fact that every service they are changed and at $100 AUD...It might be best to get a washable filter and then tune or have tuned done to suit.

 

Number one. Using anything higher than 91 Ron on a factory ignition/compression/normally aspirated VFR 800 is a waste of money.

Number two it sounds like the bike could be suffering from other underlying issues. It almost sounds like the factory o2 sensors are still hooked up and the bike is still going in and out of open and lean closed loop fuel injection.

But I would start by giving the bike a good tune up (spark plugs, fuel filter, clean the air filter, have fuel injectors ultrasonic cleaned, sync the starter valves, insure o2 eliminators are hooked up correctly, insure pair valves were blocked off correctly) and putting a zero map on the power commander.

After you get all of that in order, I would go get a custom dyno tune. If anything was still off, it would show up on the dyno.

I do think its weird that there would be black soot all around the muffler of a sixth gen that still had the factory catalytic converter header installed. Maybe the previous owner got the bike tuned incorrectly with the pair valves and or o2 sensors still hooked up, and tuned overly rich to compensate. Hopefully your cat isn't fouled up.

You might want to install a cat less header before the next dyno tune.

 

"which is now difficult to maintain consistent speeds"

See my comment about the starter valves. If you are at 3500-4000, or perhaps 6,000 rpm, and at very light throttle, and the engine is bucking, that is the starter valves. Have them tuned per the service manual. The air intake from idle to 4% throttle is coming through an idle control circuit. The vacuum settings among the four valves of that circuit is the problem.

From all the evidence you provided, I bet if you open the old map and look at the values below 10% throttle, you will see fuel added. Understand that the prior owner covered up the bucking problem by over-fueling it. This is something you will commonly see among motorcyclists. People discover a problem with the bike and they think that a magic bolt-on from the store will fix it. They should have addressed the bike's standard maintenance before bolting on the Power Commander.

Or maybe you just now notice the bucking because you are zoning in on the details, and the fuel change is a red herring. That is possible as well.

CR beat me to it:When all standard maintenance is done, (clean fluids, charging system working according to spec, etc.) that would be the time to get the bike tuned, if you still want. The tuning can help smooth out acceleration through the power band. That is pretty much the consensus of the overall value of it. Nothing more magical comes from it. You should hear from someone that tuning the fueling tends to be a poor economic value. Many of us do it anyway because "it is cool."

 

A grand later...

I love carburetors.

 

LOL ^ what he said. Back to the ops original question, I haven't a clue, other than when I saw what RW. got after a tune, I'm all about it. I do agree when carbs are right, like mine where on my 4th gen, it's hard to believe it can be better. Now as far as what octane rating works best, that's up for debate. I know for a fact the VFRs I've had run better on 93 Chevron than Arco 88. only in a pinch will I run regular.

 

Those bigass mountains in Kansas, Nebraska, Iowa and Florida must be a bitch to tune to..

 

Lol!

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Cheers for reply RC46.

Number One....My understanding is that a higher RON gives a better burn and performance/economy. but your reply does get me thinking about spark plug heat ranges and the power of the coil packs etc etc.

Number Two....Definitely not connected and does have the resistors in place. Off the shelf resistors not just a piece of wire.

I do think that a good old (proper) service is the go here, as per your suggestion.

You say Pair Valves...as in more than one...Do you mean block both hoses or just one??
Cheers

 

Spot on Knight...I had a look at the map and there does seem to be a fair bit of extra fuel.

So the plan now is to go back to basic's and make sure everything is right then add 1 item and test and then add another, But after plenty of reading, cleaning the injectors, Spark plugs and getting a "Sync" done on the old girl, should get her pulling harder than George Michael in a public toilet.

Cheers

 

I took a look at the BMC and the stock filter and then changed back to the stock filter(even tho its filthy) the bike run better.

Pipercross filter is on the Xmas list this year.