what did you do to your vfr today?

Ok... One more time

that was a failed attempt to make the headlights lens.
But thats another post.

 

Nice! The big 4 - OH!

 

OEM hardbags just in time for a trip down to Tennessee!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

I did not think it would live this long

 

Why not? It should last a lot longer with good care.

 

I just have no clue what the previous owner did to this animal. And the replacement motor is also a mystery to me. $150 was the cost for that.

 

I just installed the Knight Design lowering pegs. While I haven't taken it out for a ride yet, I can already tell, while on the center stand, that it's going to make a big difference on my hips! (I'm 6'3")

 

Fule pump is leaking really bad.
So I took it out n just ran the hose to the carb. New pump will be here Friday. Acceleration is not the same when gravity fed. But good enough to get to work.

 

Jorgescar, where did you get your fuel pump? I've had issues with mine that so far have been mitigated by shutting off the fuel while the bike is parked. I know some day that this will not take care of the issue but I've been hesitant to drop $160 for a new pump.

 

Well, it was yesterday, but I took the VFR out for a 350 mile cruise to test out my new Knight Industries lowering pegs (no more hip pain....mission successful!). At about mile 300 my bike died on me. I popped off the seat, started checking fuses and found a very melted 30a fuse inside the upgraded fuse holder. Looks like the rubber cap for it could only hold out so much of the elements and one of the connections got a little corroded. Thankfully, the previous owner left me a new 30a fuse under the seat! I made it home, cleaned up the fuse holder and added a few spare fuses under my seat. The fuse holder took some damage, so I'll likely replace it in the next week or so.

 

I think people tend to forget fuses are like the 3-wire stator connector, they rely on a good clean, non-corroded connection to eliminate contact resistance (cause of heat).

 

I definitely learned that yesterday!! It's been so long since my high school electronics class that it didn't cross my mind when I was checking everything out while doing my stator replacement. I pretty much went, "Well, it looks like the previous owner upgraded everything the proper way, so I don't need to re-check things." Yeah...I'll checking/cleaning all of the electrical upgrades when I replace the 30a fuse holder. The first owner sold it at least six years ago, so everything that owner did has seen a lot of elements since then.

My step-dad (electrical engineer) would be poking fun at me and would have utilized this as a teaching experience if he was still around (just like he did when my car stereo install caught on fire when I was a teenager). Thankfully he taught me enough to get the bike home.

 

Your r/r is on its way out guaranteed, you need to check the connector that goes to it from the wiring loom, it contains the three yellows from your stator. If you have a connector from the stator to the loom you should eliminate it. You can do a search of this here excellent web site for "the Drill." I won't go into it here, I been through exactly what your going through, adventually that four wire plug that goes into your starter relay, will burn and the whole thing will be a motel mess, just like the r/r. They commit mechanical suicide and make a mess on your aluminum frame :loco: Good luck

 

I'm sure he will remind you of: E=IR, it's a law, Ohm's law, not an opinion.

 

Allyance I think you may have your wires crossed, Ohm's law states V=IR, and Einstein's theory of special relativity stated that E=mc2.

I'm sure there is a (burning) connection between them somewhere, just like between the stator and the R/R in paradox's bike.

 

New battery, old one 9 years old.

I notice my bike cranking a little slowly a few times. It did it this morning and the clock reset.

I suppose I took it in the shorts at the dealer but no one else in the area carried Yuasa. $157.

The voltage was 12.8 but I don't have a load tester. I learned recently you can have full voltage but zero capacity.

 

Did some basic maintenance.
Installed ricks motor sports r/r. Why - because last month my stator failed - not as cooked as some -- three or four windings lightly browned, still putting out some volts -- which techs put down to age as the bike 99 vintage is 16 years old. But decided to upgrade the rr and do it myself from learnings here. Techs said stock rr tested fine with new stator. Ricks item clearly has larger gauge wires than stock. Direct plug and play and fired up no probs. will look to solder wires direct. For the moment I cleaned all terminals with isoprop alcohol and sprayed electrical switch cleaner/ lubricant and then zip tied plugs firmly.

Installed k & n air filter. No hassles. Old filter was stock but looking a little tired. Noticed some oil in the air box in the rear right corner around the crankcase breather so cleaned it out. I think that is because of overfilling oil and the breather sprays some into the air box on the over run. So taking great care with engine oil levels now.

Changed engine oil and filter. Had a wide choice of oils but finally decided on castrol semi synth motorcycle oil on the basis castrol have worked with Honda at world super bikes level for ages.

Patched some little cracks on the fairing with plastic putty and put Bonnie back together.

Still some bits and bobs but all in good time. Doing all these little things is a labour of love and makes riding the bike all the more satisfyingly personal. You never get that with a car!
Cheers

 

Randy over fills his bike all the time, very hard not too!

 

E bay... 23.99 from ulatimatecomponents. Got it in 3 working days.
160... fuck that!
It's working just fine.

 

Lol. I find that hard to disbelief!