Bussing relay headlight

Hi.

I'm qute new on the forum. Last year I finally fullfilled my dreams on buying a VfR. It is a VFR 800 2003, without ABS. I love it!

It has been running for 60.000 km. Last year I had to change the stator and regulator. This year the temperature sensor was changed.

Thing now is: Turn on the key and the FI lampa wont light up, a buzzing sound under the instrument starts and there's no headlight. It starts anyway but cut off at once. New battery, cleaning the contacts. Finding the buzzing is from headlight relay. After taking them off, it starts as normal and running fine. Still no headlight or turninglight front.

A mecanic checked relay and say they are fine but had no time to do more now. Season in Norway is not to long so I want to try to find out if I can do anything.

Suggestions?

 

There was a recall for 2002 to 2005 models. Not sure on specifics but was somewhere up front. Was that done on your bike? Any Honda dealer can run VIN to check.

 

And before you have to replace the stator and rec/reg again, remove the connector between them and solder and heatshrink the wires. You have been warned

 

Thank for quick reply. Don't know if something is done so I shall ask for a VIN check.
About heatshrink the wiree, have not heard about that before in this case. Big risk for new breakdown? Not cheap a repair to change rec/reg.

 

Well just hang around here for a few days and you will find out about the 10 million charging problems these bikes have suffered, been quiet for the last few days, nobody has come on saying they have been left stranded on the side of the road. Sometimes we get half a dozen in the same week

 

Think I found out what was wrong! The buzzing noice case from the right contact of the headlight relay. Followed the cable to the big connection on the lett side above left radiator. Found one contactpin that looked a bit corroded (very litte) Cleaning and sprayed with contactprotection. Now it runs great and have turninglight and headlight

 

So you found a bit of corrosion causing your relay to have a bad connection and the arcing in the connector caused it to buz. Magnify that problem tenfold with the connector between the stator and rec/reg and what have you got, a fried charging system. You have been warned

 

Have checked and cleaned the connectors between stator and rec/reg. And used a wellknowned workshop to do the repair with stator, rec/reg.

 

I'll bet that workshop doesn't follow VFR World to find out what fixes these stator,rec/reg problems

 

Should I remove the connector between the stator and rec/reg (three yellow cables) and solder and heatshrink instead?

 

Sounds like a plan

 

Thank for the good advice. Don't want to spend another 1400$ (the cost for the reg/rec and stator in Norway)

 

Whats he purpose of that Normk?? I just had the recall done in my 2002 vfr800 but i just got it back from the dealer 2 days ago and now the cluster wont show when i use the hight beams or the blinkers...although the lights DO Work.....any advise here...i called the dealer but they are close on sunday....cherss

 

Hi and welcome Niwde001 to the MadHouse:welcome:!

When you get time please swing by the "introductions" section of the forum to say Hi to the rest of the folks on here and please add at least one photo of your VFR or it won't be long before folks start raggin on you.


Loads of 750 and 800 vfr's have had the electrics fried with either stator or RR or both needing replacement with the stator/RR connector often being identified as the likely culprit.

Whilst the connector is fine when new it is a weak spot in a section of the loom carrying loads of energy. Over time corrosion can set in, increasing the resistance at the connector to the point where it heats up enough to melt the plastic connector allowing the AC volts passing down those yellow wires to cross connect and bang goes stator and quite possibly RR and other electrical grief. It is not a matter of "If" but really a matter of "when" this problem will rear its ugly head. Just read some of the posts in the following thread and you will understand that it makes sense to eliminate that connector. It is a cheap effective solution and if done right you will never have to mess with it ever again. (If you ever did need to replace the stator you can always unsolder the joints, so you are not doing anything which will make the bike a problem to maintain.)

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures?

As for headlight issues on a 2002 vfr - the search engine on this forum is quite good and should show up threads which might be pertinent to the problem you have encountered, and potentially identify people who found and fixed the issue.

To be able to comment further we really need more input from you - as 2002 was a year when models changed, we don't know if you have a 5th gen - pre vtec model, or a 6th gen vtec version, so similar problems may have very different causes/solutions.

I suggest you update your forum profile (Forum Actions/Edit Profile) to include clarification on the specs of your VFR and a rough location - city/state is fine, that way they appear automatically alongside your posts and if you need help you just might find someone living nearby is willing to swing by and offer advice - especially if you have a well stocked beer fridge.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.



SkiMad

 

Thanks for the welcoming.....i thought i had uploaded a pic of my baby....any ways i did now but it shows it sidewayss....any help?

 

No matter what your mechanic might tell you, the charging system on any VFR right up to about 2006 was garbage. The wires were inadequate, and adding the "male to female" clips/spade connectors, etc. is even worse. At a minimum, cut the connector off and solder the 3 yellow wires from the Stator to the R/R. It doesn't matter what order they get soldered in.

Plain and simple - and NormK is trying to help with his comments.

 

Hey there thanks for the advice ill check into it asap..and i wasnt trying to sound rude to NormK or anything i apologize if it sounded weird.....mmnot the best english speaker here... :/ so i just havd the recall for the main harnes and sub harness done in my 2002 vfr800 vtech but since i got it..3 day ago...the cluster doesnt show when i use the high beam or turnsignals...any help??

 

OK - Me no understand!

It looks like there is also a language communication issue here. It is never easy to communicate clearly in a foreign language, and sometimes machine translation programmes can produce weird results when talking about technical things.

I am not sure what your native language is, but VFRW is a worldwide club so if you are having difficulties explaining the problems which you have with your VFR - then it might be sensible to also post your comments in your own language.

Hopefully there is someone else on here who speaks the same language and may be able to produce a better/clearer translation.

At the moment I am unsure what you mean by "the cluster doesn't show".

- Do you mean the headlight bulb does not illuminate?
- Do you mean the headlight warning light on the dash are not illuminating?
- Do you mean the turn signals are not working?
- Do you mean the turn signal warning lights on the dash are not illuminating?

One way around language problems is to make a short video to show us what is happening and post a link here so we can see what is wrong.

Depending on your responses, we may be able to help diagnose what is wrong with your VFR.




SkiMad

 

Soo there is no light in the dash...the numbers/miles. gas indicator and everything else seems to work fine...the thing that doesnt work is the highbeam indicator/ or the turn signal indicator.... u know the little blue light that turns on when u turn ur highlights on..however the light bulbs work fine..the highlights and low lights work good also it flashes or iluminates the turn signals bulbs everytime i use them..its just the dash that does not tell u that they are on....it also has the front turn signals like a runnig day light(only the front ones)..but its a low light.....it gets brighter when it flashes....i hope i explained myself..thanks again

 

Thanks that is clearer.

So the headlights are working OK but the dashboard display does not. If you look at the vtec wiring diagram below:



[If you save the image file to your computer you will be able to zoom in closely to examine a part of the image]

The obvious place where those two affected circuits - main beam and turn signals come together is at the top of the diagram where inputs from those circuits connect into the dashboard.

As those circuits are both at one end of the connector my guess is that the connector into the rear of the dashboard has not been fully pushed in -and as a result some connections work OK and others do not. If you have been having work done in this area the connector may have simply got dislodged during that work. So start by checking that connector is fully pushed home - if necessary remove it and reinstate it. Then test it works correctly before reinstating things.

I am not sure if it is possible to get access to the back of the dashboard without some dismantling. It might be worth seeing if putting the bike on the main stand and turning the steering to one side allows you enough access to reach up from below and check the connector is pushed home entirely by feel.

I suspect you will find you will probably need to remove the screen and lift the plastic cover which runs above the dashboard as a sun shade to get access to the back of the instrument panel. To remove the screen unscrew the two trim panels located under the screen near the mirrors - this will reveal the two? mounting screws which pass through the screen and hold the screen in place. After removing the mounting screws with a standard screen you gently tug/slide the screen up and towards the rear of the bike to free the two locating lugs at which point it should lift free and can be put aside somewhere safe.

Important - I am slightly worried by your avatar image - which suggests the bike has a non-standard screen so the attachment and removal may not be the same. Take great care as many aftermarket screens are made of significantly thinner - more fragile material which can break very easily!!!

With the screen removed you should be able to carefully lift up the front end of the plastic cover and gain access to the rear of the dashboard to check the connector is properly located.

Let us know how you get on.


SkiMad