Priority Accessories/Upgrades

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by gareth_fisher, Mar 23, 2015.

  1. gareth_fisher

    gareth_fisher New Member

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    Hi Guys,
    First of all I've not posted on forums before so apologies for any mistakes/repeated questions which have already been answered.
    So I've just bought my first VFR, (VFR800i 2000). Except few a few minor additions (givvi top box, scotoiler, spyball alarm) its pretty much stock and in almost perfect condition.
    Just wanted to ask everyone what they would prioritise for accessories/modifications. Will be getting some crash bungs as soon as possible but apart from that I have no idea...should I:
    -New seat
    -R/R (although apparently the 2000 model now has a fuse to stop it from boiling the battery) so does it need to be done??
    -I've heard about new forks but not sure if it really is an issue that needs fixing
    -Exhaust
    Don't plan on messing around with indicators or tail tidy modifications.
    Any thoughts, views and experiences would be greatly appreciated.

    Gaz
     


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  2. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Welcome aboard Gaz. Unless you talk about religion, politics or someone's mother on here, there's no right or wrong.

    For the mechanical priorities: don't be deceived about the R/R. It's still a piece of junk. If you haven't seen this post below, look at it, read it, and do "the drill". See post #9. Why? Because if your VFR hasn't cooked the wires/RR/Stator yet, it will. If you don't know that its been replace already, my suggestion: Get a new one. Hook it up properly. Keep the old (existing) one for a back-up.

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

    Suspension: Always personal choice. Most will say if you weigh more than about 150 pounds (whatever that equates to on that side of the pond!) you would benefit from upgrades. Money well spent as it makes the bike a whole new animal. Can you get by with stock? Sure.

    Other stuff:
    Exhaust. Just sounds soo nice.
    Seat: Customize your stock saddle. Go to a local shop. Find out who they use to fix their seats (you seldom see a used bike for sale with a torn up seat), and have them fit your arse. Or, order a Corbin or Sargent.
    Make sure the tires are good. (Use the search function in the top right of this page to read all about tire opinions).
    If its unknown when fluids were done, do eeeet. Brake, clutch, oil, coolant. Note that bleeding brakes on these bikes, due to linked brake system, can be a pain in the arse. There's a very specific procedure to follow.

    Ride and enjoy.
     


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  3. marriedman

    marriedman New Member

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    Since you are completely new to forums, I think we can cut you some slack for any mistakes!

    Many people (myself included) believe one of the most important thing to do is upgrade the charging system. That means a MOSFET R/R and at the very least a VFRness. The 2000 VFR800 is a 5th gen VFR and they did not come with an inline fuse to the battery, so you may already have the charging system upgrade. I suggest taking pictures of said fuse and if possible, the R/R. Most of us here can tell if you have an OEM, updated OEM, or MOSFET R/R just by looking at it. I would also look into adding a voltmeter to the bike.

    I may sound paranoid, but two VFR's have crapped out on me because of the shitty charging system, and many people I know have been stranded for the same reason. On the 6th gens, it is either the stator or the R/R. On the 5th gen, it is almost always the R/R or the battery. A buddy and I redid mine with 10 gauge wire and beefy connectors. Rock solid after that.

    Forks are dependent upon your weight and riding style. If you weigh more than 175lbs and you ride a little sporty, you may want to consider upgrading the suspension. Not just the fork springs and valving, but also the rear shock as well.

    I would also consider an aftermarket exhaust. Not because you want to have a badass sounding machine, but because the OEM can is huge and weighs as much as a boat anchor. You can get a stainless Delkevic with decible killer that is not much louder than stock for really cheap and save at least 10lbs. No joke.

    A seat. Again, if you weigh more than 175lbs and you like to ride for longer than an hour you may want to consider buying a Sargent or having your OEM customize with better supporting foam.

    And lastly, since you are new to forums in general; always post a picture of your bike in your first thread. The mantra online is "Pics or it didn't happen!" Welcome to the forum.
     


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  4. marriedman

    marriedman New Member

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    DAMMIT! lol, Plisken posted that while I was typing!

    But our posts are eerily similar aren't they?
     


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  5. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    ^^^If you typed with more than two fingers...
     


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  6. gareth_fisher

    gareth_fisher New Member

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    That's great guys thanks for all the advise...would love to upload some pics but I still need to pick the bike up (Living in Scotland...needs collecting from England), Should have it within the next week though. Will definitely upload pics of the RR for you guys to see. One last thing though and thats the stock headlight is that worth upgrading xeon for example or do i run the risk of frying the electrics??
    Thanks all again,
    Gaz
     


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  7. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    There are various posts about ugrading to LED lights. Again, see search function on top right. There's penty-o-info out there.

    I don't know about the xeon.
     


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  8. marriedman

    marriedman New Member

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    lol, I actually type relatively fast. However I am at work and between answering phones and people coming into my office it took me longer!

    Gareth - I found the stock headlights to be fine for my use. If you are wanting to use brighter lights for visibility sakes, I would say that low mounted fork light would be a better solution. Albeit not necessarily the better looking solution.
     


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  9. JimGregory

    JimGregory New Member

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    Hi Gareth
    Congrads on the bike. I got a low mile 99 last season. For me the stock suspension or shall I say the suspension as I got it, works well. Even for 2 up touring. Everyone says upgrade but I personally have no reason to. I added givi top box and side cases with Givi turn signals. I added a powerlet outlet and heated grips and a relay with fuse block. I added a volt meter and a VFRness. I checked and dielectric greased all pertinent connections. I have the original R/R. I added a seargent seat. I HATED the stock seat. I added helibars. I love the bike. Hope you do also.
    Honestly I have no idea whats in the forks or what shock it is OR what engine mods it has had. But she runs great. I THINK the suspension is stock but with only about 6500 miles. The airbox was butchered and I replaced it with a complete box. The pair valves have been blocked off.



     


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  10. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Yup, I just beefed up the charging wiring on my 2002 VFR800.

    I ran a set of redundant wires (including monitor wire) from the R/R to the battery. I also ran a set of redundant ground wires from the R/R to ground. I replaced the dinky wire at the main 30A fuse that burns out with 12G. All the connectors were replaced with 5mm bullets (made for high-end RC helicopters - designed to handle massive loads), soldered, and shrink wrapped. Connectors were all cleaned up and dielectric grease applied.

    The mods yielded almost a full volt (1v) and is now almost completely rock steady at 14.3V (vs fluctuating in the low-mid 13s)

    Better to do it now in the comfort of your garage than out on the side of the road without all the parts and tools you might need.
     


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  11. jethro911

    jethro911 Member

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    Let's see,

    1. High mount or left exit exhaust (improves riding experience and makes friends green with envy)
    2. Suspension service (fluid seals etc)
    3. Head bearings (tapered preferably)
    4. Raise the rear 10mm to speed up steering a bit (shim)
    5. Change brake fluid and check pads (just because it's always a good idea)
    6. Fresh rubber
    7. Charging stuff already covered well and a voltage monitor to warn you if things are going south.
    8. Power commander and tune
    9. A set of bling shorty levers
    10. Gasoline
     


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  12. seano

    seano New Member

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    If you're considering a seat upgrade, check out Spencer's custom seat work at http://greatdaytoride.com/Home_Page.php
    Though I love the look of the Sargent seat, it's close to $400 with shipping. For around $100 +/- Spencer will fit custom foam in the problem areas and recover with the original cover. He gets rave reviews on various bike forums -google spencer seats. He'll also usually be able to ship the seat back to you within 48 hours of getting it. He seems to know his way around VFR seats - check out the email he sent me in response to my inquiry:

    Sean,

    Thank you sir for your interest in my work and the information.

    The typical requests for the single piece '95 VFR750/RC36 seats rider area are correction of the seats angle to provide a more neutral position with less of a forward slant to the tank, creation of an actual supportive seating "pocket", and a softening of the frontal midline to take pressure off of the crotch. These changes combine to better distribute your weight across the width of the seat rather than concentrating it in the center. Moving of the seating area is limited by the pan shape but most riders find that the more neutral position relieves some pressure on the knees and wrists, actually allowing a little more room in the fairing. With it's wide, flat, and relatively thin base material adding the Supracor suspension included in the LD mod is definitely recommended. It will allow a more form fitting shape, provide better weight distribution, reduce vibration in the seat, and dampen road shock. The Supracor works for the rider because it is a dynamic material with an instant rebound. It moves with you, working with your weight shifts for proper bike control. If you use a material in the riders section that "takes a set" it locks you in one position and fights against you. This is the main problem with foams as the rider is constantly moving, even while cruising the highway you are making small corrections in your weight distribution. You can find more information about the material HERE.

    Pricing would be the standard minimum for a single section seat of $50 for the actual work to the riders area and a $25 material charge for the Supracor. Your original seat cover will be re-installed after my work is complete so must be free of holes, rips, and not be dried out/cracked. I do not accept damaged or previously altered seats for modification. With the age of your seat please make sure to check it over carefully before shipping.

    A photo of you in riding position is helpful and appreciated, but not an absolute necessity. Each seat is set up specifically for the rider so any additional information you think I may need regarding your position, type of riding, any medical concerns you may have should be listed in the special instructions area on the order form. When you think you have given me too much information, just a little more should be about right.

    Please feel free to ship at your convenience, all that I ask is that you drop me note when you do so, with the area you are shipping from, so that I can properly set my schedule. My current turnaround is no more than 48 hours so your only real downtime will be in shipping. If you visit my web site you can find the Order Form as well as my FAQ page which contains more information regarding shipping, payment, and a bunch (probably too much) general information. Contact me any time if you have questions.

    Thanks again and ride safe, Spencer

    www.GreatDayToRide.com

    I'm sending him mine this week!!
     


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