Anybody ever tried cutting the middle of the inner cowl to change the oil filter ?

The difficulty of changing the stupid oil filter on this bike is annoying. You just want to beat the crap
out of the guy that couldn't find a better way than putting that stupid inner black cowl to hold all the panels together. Has anyone ever tried to cutoff the center pillar of the inner cowl so that you can remove the filter without having to go through the whole outer cowl, inner cowl removal procedure ? Did it hurt anything ? This so pisses me off !

Thanks.

 

You need to figure out the REAL reason behind your anger, grasshoppah~

I've never found it that had to change the filter. You have to open the panel to drain the oil anyway. I use an 8 mm allen in my portable drill to make removing the bolts quicker. I can have both sides LOOSE (no need to remove completely & the center out of the way in 5 minutes....

 

I am with Rabbit on this one, cutting a hole for a basic and infrequent maintenance item is a bit extreme. If you put your mind to the task it only takes a few minutes.

 

If I recall correctly you are an engineer are you not? Wouldn't you think that the inner cowl was designed this way by engineers for a reason? Like already said, you need to at leasat loosen the panels to drain the oil so why not remove the filter this way too.

I take mine right off. Other than an issue with the threads on the oil pan plug a few years back, I have no problems with this. I have done at least 26 oil changes on mine and have had the fairings off for a few other reasons. The biggest problem with this is those stupid Honda clips on the bottom. I have two of those left on my bike. As they break, I replace them with a far better after market clip.

 

Its a pretty quick job for me and like Randy I'm slowly replacing all the clips on all my bikes just to make it easier. It takes longer to warm the bike up than the oil change.

 

I simply remove the Allen key screws from the black air deflector up front and pull it a little out of the way to remove the air filter. I don't need to even loosen the lower cowl. As it looks to my non engineer eyes, the black part is there to deflect air out to the radiators.

 

Ahh.. the old switch to QD clips trick eh?

Mthinks Randy is talking aboot those push rivets that Honda sells for mucho pesos that NAPA has by the box. Other sources too from other outfits.


Now that we got that problem all sewed up, let us now address the subject of changing plugs made just a tad easier withoot using a sawzall or a crowbar.

Good stuff man..

 

Strange place for your air filter lint. lol I know what you meant to say.


I have not yet changed the plugs on the VFR but if there anything like my CBR……….

You have to go all the way down to taking off the injector rail and velocity stacks and thats faster than than by the book method that has you loosen and move the radiator to get to one of them. Pain in the ass. I have seen guys at the track change plugs on a GSXR 1000 in no time….. But its a Zuk so… lol Properly set up their fine track bikes too.

 

Randy, I just use a zip tie thru the 2 bottom fairing holes~

BB, I found the plugs damned easy to change...use the plug tool in your tool kit! a lot easier than changing the plugs on my Toyota pickup

 

...

C'mon guys, this is like the guy that works at a fish market and when someone asks how he can
work with the smell of fish and he says "what smell of fish?". Just because you have gotten use to it does not mean that it is not a bad design. Yes I am an engineer and if somebody brought me that design to my desk I would tell him , "crappy design but way to go keeping the dealers busy". There is no other reason for it. They have 3 clips right behind the clutch line and the shock, if you are working on the floor they are difficult to get at. I suppose if things did not break I wouldn't care, but that is the issue, every time you gotta do this you are breaking clips and, if fortunate, hopefully you do not bust one of those well nuts and now you can't even get the panel out. I have one of those and I am not able to take the right panel out. I have to bend it out when I do the coolant change. The screw is just spinning lose in the cylinder. To make matters worse it is the one that comes out behind the front right turn light, there is no room in that tiny hole to be able to work any tool in there. I can't tap it because the screw just spins inside the well nut barrel.

Anyways, I read that some of you have gone to different type of clips. Can anyone point me to what you have switch too ? I am already 2 short and might as well start replacing them. And if you have an idea as to how to pull out the screw and the well nut I described I am all eyes and ears. Thanks.

PS I would love to see some more images of your bike but it says I have no permission ????

 

Disregard. I am able to see your bike gallery now. User error probably

 

I'll send you a link to " Bolt Fasteners " for those replacment clips when I gef to my computer. I'm presently on my hemeroid device. I ha e also replaced a few of my well nuts too from an outside source. Eventually they fail too. Some are a bitch if they do fail.

 

Try this place
http://m.aliexpress.com/popular/motorcycle-fairing-fasteners.html

The black quick release are nice. Or any of the DZus style fast ers

 

Eventually they fail too. Some are a bitch if they do fail.[/QUOTE]

Oh brother ! That is not what I wanted to hear. I was hoping the one that fail was the exception. I really have no idea what to do with the one I have. The though of having several of them failing
is depressing. Anybody knows a Honda mechanic here that can provide a solution ? This guys must run into this all the time, no ?

 

Here you go, these are race proven reliability and very fast.

http://www.racebolts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=723

 

http://www.boltmotorcyclehardware.com/products/sport-bike/sport-bike-rivets/m6-rivets.html

These are the plastic clips. You want the M6. They fit tighter than the OEM but that in itself is better.

I wouldn't get my panties in a twist over the well nuts failing. I had a bitch of a time with one which spun while the screw was still inside. Eventually, with an assortment of devices and tools, I was able to get something in behind to hold the nut within the wellnut tight enough to get it out. Most of these are easy to get at, especially if you look them over when you have the bike 's plastics removed. Ideally you would spot one that is about to fail or is worn enough to worry about it, then R & R at that time.

Well nuts are not really that cheap OEM either. But you can get them just about anywhere that fasteners are sold. So happens if you get the well nuts from an Arctic Cat, (that is not an animal but a snow machine for those who live in the southern climes) they are exactly the same as the OEM for about 1/3 the price. The size is M5-0.8 I think the part number is 1623-764.

A good practice to follow each time you remove the bolt from the well nut is to apply a high quality lube to the thread of the bolt before you re-install. That prevents the exposed threads from oxidizing which starts the problem. I use a product called Tri-Flow. Expensive so I use the drip applicator and it lasts for years.

 

I hope you never need to replace the thermostat if the oil filter is bothering you so much

 

Tried to link that one. No luck..Got a page that wanted "me" to sign in or join up. Nuts to that!

 

I have a 5th gen, but not much difference on the procedure.
Why are you removing the centre cowl, you only need to remove the left side, takes 2 minutes at most.
You must be doing something wrong.
Not having a go at you, just trying to help.