help please - removing broken exhaust stud..

The bike is totaled. I'll buy if from you from you for $100, you cover shipping. You can thank me later.

But seriously - good ideas above. Only thing I can mentioned again is patience. Soaking that stud repeatedly over a couple days certainly can't hurt.

 

You're dead right about patience. Everytime I tried to rush things along = snap!... another stud sheared.

 

Glad it all worked out!

Two items to add to the great information above.

If you ever go to drill into the stud, go to your local Industrial Supply store or Machine Shop supply store and ask for left handed drill bits. The flutes are reversed and you use these drilling in a counterclockwise direction. Sometimes, after a lot of lubing, the reverse action of the drill will start to unscrew the stud. The vibration of the drilling process also help the lubes penetrate the threads. This works better than half the time but not all the time.

Always, always, always! Use some sort of anti-Seize compound when reassembling exhaust headers, pipes etc. Anti-Seize compound comes in different grades. Usually graphite which is good to about 900 degrees F. Copper Grade (Copper Slip?) which is good to about 1600 degrees and Nickel Grade which is good to about 2200 degrees.

 

All good and useful advice and techniques for removal after soaking. What might be some suggestions on a really efficient soaking fluid? This could be anything from old school motor oil and kerosene to something on the market that is really great.

 

If you have left handed drill bits, you have to remember to reverse your drill too. I have a set along with those extractor things, they have worked in the past when things went wrong got some stud pullers that look like large sockets with these cams inside so they grab the stud in question; they have been sitting in a drawer and hopfully won't see use in the near future :loco:

 

Another useful tip, besides the anti-seize, is to add another nut to the stud. This will protect the threads on the end of the stud from corroding.

 

I like that idea.^^^^^^^^^

 

If you install a high temp lock nut it won't seize or corrode. Problem solved.

Buy cheap hardware and this is what you get. Oh and the OEM Honda stuff isn't necessarily the best.

 

When I bought my bike this year it had one key. I went to a locksmith who unfortunately could not cut the groove for the steering lock (do not worry I found another locksmith.) In any case, he lubricated all keyholes and the gas tank cover mechanism with a liquid called "Lok-Shot." It is a synthetic lubricant. This lubricant is engineered to crawl along. It will crawl along any available space so you may put it in the end of the bolt and it may crawl along the threads or space all of the way in. It cleans along the way as well with a significant foaming action. It is probably expensive and can be found by googling the name along with "locksmith."

 

Automatic transmission fluid it great for a penetrate. It will wick in to anything.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c742j94FxmE

for you's. Not female sheeps either :koolaid:

 

If you took a Dremel with cutting disc and cut about 2mm around the alloy boss, so it comes off like a washer and with grips it should remove easily.

 

I hope y'all don't run oot and buy these rigs up before they are all gone.