Chain and sprocket question

I have a new to me 1986 VFR750 w/ 21k miles on her. Sweet bike. Looking for a sanity check on my thinking. The chain is at the replace mark. And I notice that at times the chain is very tight (almost feels like the brakes are on) while at others it is loose to acceptable. I am guessing this means it is time to replace the sprockets also. Is this thinking correct? Have not been on a bike for 22 years, but spent a lot of time on one before that. Kids, family, etc. It seems to me back in the day we always changed the gears along with the chain, but the teeth don't seem very worn. Your input is appreciated. .

 

Nice looking bike, I always wanted one of those in high school... at least until my senior year when I saw that sexy black zx11 at the county fair. I'm not sure how to check for a worn sprocket other than to look for small deformities but I would say replace it. With only 21k miles you may still be on the original ones so unless you have the service records indicating otherwise I would assume that is the case. I consider replacing consumable parts that may (or may not) still be good as part of the cost of owning a used vehicle. I would rather know the job is done right than have to go back and do it again.

 

As I look around the answer seems to be change chain and sprockets together. I am confused by one thing I am seeing though. It seems people are saying to break an endless chain and use a master link. What is the sense of using an endless chain if you are going to do that? I put an endless replacement chain on my old 1977 Kawasaki long ago. Had to remove the swing arm of course. Is this not a DIY option?

 

Personally, I have never heard of ordering an endless chain. But I accept they are out there if you say so. Like you eluded to, sounds like its a pain in the ass to install. The common consensus here, but not totally supported, is that you should change both sprockets at the same time as your chain. I have always done that.

Go to one of the reputable Motorcycle Parts and Supply On Line stores and look for a D.I.D chain. They seem to be the favourite here as well. Again, not all but a large following. That is what I have used many times. They will give you the option to put your bike details in, then they will send you the chain that is the right length with all that is needed to link it together, except for the tools.

Changing the chain yourself the first time may look a bit intimidating but there are lots of videos on Youtube that will help. The Service Manual will tell you step by step how to remove everything else you may need to do.

 

Yes replace the sprockets and chain at the same time otherwise the old uneven worn sprocket will chew up your new chain......

 

Yes, an endless chain is a PITA to install, but then you know you have no point of failure at the master link. It may be that it is not practical to use an endless chain "post manufacture" due to the need to remove the engine to do so. I will find out.

 

I'm one of the naysayers when it comes to replacing both chain and sprockets together. I usually change the sprockets after 2 chains and I usually get about 20,000 miles out of both chains. But YMMV. Literally.

 

If you use a riveted master link then you have created an endless chain--it takes a good chain tool with the right anvil, but avoids the use of a clip-style master, if you have an aversion to those. i've used safety wire instead of the clip to hold the outer plate and never had a issue (on a race bike). The chain was pulled for cleaning and oiling quite frequently.

 

Kennybobby
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DID came out with a new line of chains that last 40% longer, that's a tech improvement for sure-I have one now did zuv x are something like that, better than OEM DID, 520 chain last around 20,000, 530 up to 50,000. That means a 520 chain is lighter than a 530 oem is now lasting the same as the original but 2 pounds lighter-I feel the difference all the time-spins up faster and slows up faster at down shift. a amazing chain for sure right up there with r+g sliders and maybe PR4 tires-might be the first true 10,000 mile tire.

 

Good point.

 

Hello. Not sure if you realize this but your bike has been upgraded with more modern wheels. Possibly a CBR600 (F3?), so when ordering a rear sprocket that should be taken into consideration. As others have said changing the sprockets with the chain is a good idea. The sprocket pictured here is from my Suzuki. This is the counter shaft sprocket with something like 27k miles on it. Pretty easy to tell the teeth are peened over to one side from engine torque. Using that with a new chain would have reduced the life of the chain for sure.



If you decide not to replace the sprockets at the very least remove the cover for counter shaft sprocket & inspect it. Since the bike is new to you, it would be a good idea to know what size sprocket is there. I would not assume its OE size especially with a wheel swap. Also a good time to clean out all the crud that accumulates in there.

 

I will be replacing sprockets and chain. Thanks to all for your responses.

 

16T front 45T rear? 530 DID chain - how many links? Do only OEM front sprockets have the rubber insert to limit vibration?

 

Rotate the chain and count your links chains come about 120 links so you can cut it to suit and make sure it comes with a master link not just a riveted one

 

You might need to clarify that last part: "make sure it comes with a master link not just a riveted one". I'm not sure I understand that part, are you referring to the old chain or the new one?

 

I have bought chains that only have a rivited joiner in the packet and we know they can be a pain to fit if you don't have the tool, I have seen a self riveting link some years ago on utube but never bothered asking about them, Just make sure the chain you get has the correct master link in the kit. Good chain and sprockets out here well over $300 but worth ever cent, fit and forget apart from regular lube

 

IMO the correct masterlink is a riveted masterlink. You do need the proper tool to do it easily, but when done it's a better masterlink than a clip type: it's safer and will last as long as the rest of the chain. Most clip type masterlinks wear out before the chain, because they start with a looser fit and thus wear quicker. JMO of course.

 

Old Bill over on the Supersport forum dragged raced for years with masterlinks and I don't think he ever had one let go, they are like everything if you don't maintain things they will let you down and if you don't have the right masterlink to fit that chain you are always going to be behind the eight ball

 

How often did he replace his chains? It's not that they aren't as strong, it's that the clip-type masterlinks wear faster. So unless he's using the same chain for 60,000 runs(15,000 miles) he isn't going to wear it out. Plus they remove and tear down their engines frequently so a clip-type masterlink makes life easier. Put the chain back on and most likely use a new masterlink after a few uses.

Once you put a riveted chain on you never need worry about the clip coming off, which can't be said for the clip-type masterlink. And they do come off, not often, but all it takes is one time of the chain wrapping around the countershaft sprocket to make you a believer.

If you have the peening tool then the riveted masterlink is not much more work than a clip-type. If you don't have a peening tool, and don't want to jury rig something, then the clip-type masterlink is obviously the way to go.

That's just the way I feel about it. I've used clip-type masterlinks for many, many years and only had a couple come off. I just feel the riveted masterlink removes that particular worry from the equation.