6th Gen Electrical Issues? Stumped. Need help/suggestions.

You have the right idea. Measuring the battery terminals while running will give you output of R/R or Battery in DC Volts, which ever is highest. (You won't know which).

Changing scales to AC Volts, you are reading the un-regulated output of the stator (technically the whole assembly is the alternator, the stator is just the set of stationary coils).

You are dealing with low voltage and it will not hurt you. I suppose if you grabbed on hard to the stator wires at 5K RPM, you would get a nice buzz.

 

Looks like you got it right.

Yes, check the voltage across the poles of the battery. A cheap VOM from HF will work for this. If you catch it right you can get one for free with a coupon. I have several of the little beggers.

I think the AC voltage check is from an outside source, because I don't think the Honda service manual makes mention of that check. They list the idle voltage, 4000 rpm voltage, and continuity checks. But I could be wrong, happened before.

 

Awesome, thanks! So, I'm clear then, when checking voltage at the battery terminals/posts, I should have my meter at DC volts? And then when checking the R&R/Stator connector, I'll be measuring ohms/resistance, and AC volts? And the AC volts both at idle and 5K rpm should have similar readings. Is that right?

A nice buzz is something I strive for often but, in this case, I think I'll pass.

 

"This last part, that says to crank it back up but set the meter to AC volts - This means I'm to set my multi-meter to read AC volts, put the probes inside the connector (A to B, B to C, and C to A) while the bike is running, and the readings for A to B, B to C, and C to A, should EACH start off around 15 to 20v and climb to 50v +. Is that what I should expect to see both at idle and at 5K rpm? And isn't that six readings? A to B at idle, B to C at idle, C to A at idle, then A to B at 5K rpm, B to C at 5K rpm, and C to A at 5K rpm?" So it looks like it increases with the rpm.

By George I think he's got it.

 

We'll see about that! But I think I've got it too. Just dropped off my battery at Autozone to be tested and picked up a multimeter. Thanks again for the help. I think I might re-write "The Drill" and entitle it, "The Drill (for Dummies)".

 

I know you've all been unable to sleep or focus on anything else in your lives as you've waited with baited breath for the answer to what's going on with my electrical system and, more to the point, where that burning smell is coming from. Let me at least give you an update. I still have no clue.

I changed the oil and oil filter (Motul 5100 10W40 in case anyone wants to hijack and turn this into another oil discussion) then dropped the battery off at Autozone to be tested. It tested out fine. I picked up what looked like a decent multimeter, reread (and wrote down) instructions for "the drill" and went to work.

Voltage at the battery terminals was as follows:
Engine Off: 13.03v
Idle: 14.08v
5K rpm: 14.18v

From what I've read, this seems to be within normal specs, i.e., no problem.

Stator check with the engine off - measuring resistance - I got these results on the pin-to-pin comparison:
A to B, B to C, C to A: .3 ohms at each

My understanding is that the reading should be less than 1.0 ohms and consistent between each pairing. Check. All good.

Continuity to ground:
A to ground, B to ground, C to ground: 0 at each. All good!

Then I checked AC volts at the stator connector with the engine running.
Idle: A to B, B to C, C to A - approx. 20v at each
5K rpm: A to B: approx. 65v, B to C: approx. 70v, C to A: approx. 70v

My understanding is that I should see voltage increase to over 50 at speed. If that's all I should be looking for, then it seems good. Is there any significance to the 65v reading at A to B versus the 70v at B to C and C to A? Seems like a minor difference.

In the end, it seems like my electrical system checks out fine. That leaves me with no answer as to why there are burn marks on the plastic boots over a couple of the connectors or the source of that smell. OOTV suggested I check the entire loom for any wear spots where the wires bend around metal. I'll definitely do that after I ride down the fuel level a bit.

Hope you're all enjoying your Labor Day. I'm off to clean my brake calipers and then go for a ride!

 

The burn marks are caused by a poor connection. Left untreated, it WILL destroy your R/R & Stator over time.

For now, simply pinch the connectors slightly with a pair of needlenosed pliers to increase the contact strength--this is a TEMPORARY solution. Ultimately, better connectors OR A SOLDERED DIRECT CONNECTION is the best solution.

 

Being as there is no evidence of heat damage to wires or connectors inside, I say discoloration of vinyl boots probably from being next to radiator for years and possibly UV from sun. This does not negate all the problems we normally have with corroded or weak contacts that generate heat. Look for discoloration in connectors first;
note slight discoloration of center pin. I use an emery board trimmed down to fit in female terminal to clean.

All your measurements are to spec, but now that you know what to look for, you can keep them that way. Now back to the problem at hand, the burning smell, look through the exhaust and top of engine to see what you can find.

 

Proximity to the radiator certainly crossed my mind. As we all know, these bikes don't have the best airflow and tend to run on the hot side. I'll squeeze those connectors together as TNRabbit suggested and continue in my search for the source of that smell. Just finished cleaning my calipers - having issues with the front brake dragging. With a much appreciated walk through by OOTV via phone and text, I gave it a shot but was unable to get all the caliper pistons to work in unison. Going to try new seals and o-rings and flush my ancient fluids.

 

Metallyguiterded it sounds like you've looked at all the usual suspects. My thought at this point would be set the bike near the open end of you're garage (so as not to asphxiate yourself) pull the fairings and prop the tank up and let her run until the fans come on, hopefully there will be enough heat and with everything exposed you will be able to pin point what ever this gremlin is.
Best
John

 

Great suggestion! I'll definitely do that when I get back from work today. Fingers crossed that the gremlin reveals himself.