Big-Boy Suspension: Questions/Concerns

They always say parts are 10%, and the setup is 90%. Well, I definitely have the 10% figured out.

What I've purchased so far:

Front forks: 1.0 Straight-Rate Sonic Springs, 10W oil (250lb rider w/gear on 500lb bike)
Rear Shock: Ohlins, used, w/external preload, 64/160 spring. Built for 06-09 VFR.
Tires: Michelin Pilot Power 3's

I'm 230-240lbs normally (it varies day to day and who's asking).

So as far as spring-rates are concerned I went a bit higher than I need. I do sometimes ride 2 up, and I typically have gear, or saddlebags with equipment on me. I'd rather have the ability to over-kill the suspension than tap-out and still not have the correct results.

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WHY:

Well, recently, I've been hitting many more twisty roads much more aggressively than I used to; between skill level improving, and becoming used to the bike, I've been able to pick up on things that a year ago, I was unaware of.

- Suspension geometry is off. Rear shock is on top knotch of pre-load, and top click for damping. Front suspension is almost tapped for pre-load, and lowered 1/4 inch in the trees. Suspension dive is alarming under breaking. Forks oil has never been changed.

- Tire wear. Currently have Michelin Pilot Road 3's with 8500 miles on them. Rear has minor flat spot which is normal, but has severe scalloping of sipes and treads on the softer compound near the edges. This may or may-not be suspension related, but is definitely related to the type of riding. The front wheel has scallopped severely at the medium/soft compound transition... this I believe is mainly in part to my front suspension being crap.

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Now, here's where the questions come into play to those of you who have done this.

Being that I'm changing the entire dynamic of how this bike rides by puting new sport-oriented tires on it and new suspension... should I do all the flud/spring/shock changes first, set all pre-loads and rebound to the lowest setting and put the forks back in the trees at stock height (flush w/trees) first... then set the sag... then ride it around for 100 miles or so (easilly) to break-in the tires, and get a feel for the suspension... then fiddle with damping and rake... then start to ride more normally to fine-tune?

The last thing I want to do is adjust something that doesn't need to be adjusted or adjust it negatively... so as far as I can figure, starting from the bottom is best... but in regards to the sag... should I set the sag initially at 32-35mm and then adjust the suspension for damping and turn-in, and then re-set the sag after those adjustments, or will the sag remain static throughout?

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Desired affect:

I want this bike to tansition SMOOTHLY, and with minimal effort.

I want to not bottom out the suspension.

I want improved braking (it already has new EBC HH pads installed, just want less fork dive).

I don't want my tires to scallop [as bad] (understandable that it's common, and that 8500 miles on tires is pretty damn good).

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Disclaimer: I understand this is nearly 750lbs of bike and rider going down the road and that I'm not Valentino Rossi. I also understand that I have 6 years of riding experience, 1 year of agressive riding experience. I do not expect to drag-knee and scrape pegs when all is said and done...

 

I deal with applications like yours everyday. In fact, you aren't really that big, just to let you know. I'm 100% confident I could get you setup no problem.

Just a tip: don't bother trying to fix your handling issues with the adjustments. That's not the problem - the valving is the #1 issue with the springs a close second. Those need upgraded before you will get any meaningful results.

 

Awesome, thanks Jamie!

I did also order RaceTech compression and rebound gold valves as well... so with that, the 1.0 springs, and new oil you think I'll be in a good place?

 

...and new rubber?

 

Well, it is tough to say you are "good" when using a competitor's product! In fact, you don't need all of that and I could have set you up for less money. That said, providing you get the valving setup correctly (1.0kg//mm springs are just fine) then you should have something that is much improved over stock.

 

Haha, sorry, I shouldn't have put you on the spot with that one.

I picked up the shock dirt cheap... sub-$500, and I got the RaceTech stuff for under $240 comp/rebound so... I don't feel super bad about it.





And yes BadBilly... new Michelin Pilot Power 3's are replacing the now scallopped and flat-spotted Pilot Road 3's.

 

Good man!

 

Don't forget to have that shock reworked to fix the typical Ohlins problems!

 

Jamie,

Just sent you an e-mail regarding the "bleed hole" RT suggests drilling into the valve body. The hex-bolt already has a bleed-hole in it... is this redundant?

Thanks!

 

In short - no, do not drill the bleed hole. That is a good eye! I've seen this error made almost every time with the RT kits. Details like this are the #1 drawback the RT kits - it still takes a knowledgeable installer to do it correctly.

 

Thanks Jamie,

The thing you realize when you do this yourself is that it's not black magic... it's common sense. Unfortunately RaceTech makes a good product, but has terrible instruction. I think this is due in-part to them wanting to have qualified mechanics do the work, and not Joe Everyman.

Not only were the directions wrong in this case... but so was the Digital Valve System report... Oye-vey!

Also, switching to 5w per your instruction .

You've been invaluable. Any further suspension issues are defered to you from now on! Put me down for one of eveything on my next build. (Haha.)

Thanks again!

 

No problem! One thing I've had to get accustomed to is supporting competitor products, even when they don't. All part of a day's work.