Dead Electrics at a stoplight! 6th Gen

So I was sitting at a stoplight in neutral, and Click. engine dies. I look down, and the dashboard is out, the rad fan is still spinning full speed, signals are on, but no headlights. no tail runner, or brake light, horn still works, no starter, no fuel pump, dead bike. What just happened? did I just explode an ECU at a stoplight? is this a rectifier explosion? checked my fuel pump and main fuses, they're intact. I'm about a milisecond away from stripping the headlight and ect off the frontend, and getting a good look at the whole front harness.

 

I don't know how much good that would do, as it knocked out the tail light too, different harness....

FUUUUUUUUUUU...... I need ideas.

 

What year?

 

21,400 mile 6th gen. 2007 RWB

 

Did you check the fuses behind the panel just right of the instrument cluster? 10 amp Fuse 'E' I think feeds all the things that are out.

 

Check the tag light wire. Mine rubed until it shorted where it comes out from under the seat. Blew the fuse but it didn't kill the bike, just the dash and some lights. Been so long ago . Any whoo check those fuses as mr sleep advised.

 

Check all the fuses and wiring.
Check your battery connection make sure they not loose
Report back for more evaluation.

 

the right side fuse box looks fine. all fuses in tact, no heat damage, no corrosion.

I'd believe the tag light, IF the engine ran, it doesn't.

it seems to maybe be something front harness related. Almost has to be. my main fuse cable looks kinda rough. seems to still be making connection though.

I purchased an auto meter a while back. looks like it's time to figure out how to use it correctly. can someone point me in the right direction on that?

Also. I have some pics I'm going to take. so. soon.

 

Man your bike is new :noidea:
Try to clean the Kill switch on the throtle control and check all the hardness
I don't know what else ......Test the Stator follow the link at post #9
Good luck
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...mmon-regulator-Stator-failures?highlight=Rubo

 

I've been having melty fusing problems for a few months now. fuel pump fuse, main battery fuse/connector, had a fuel pump relay take a dive, now this. I just ordered an entire main/front harness off of ebay. they say no cuts, no broken connectors, no nonsense, we'll see.

I'll clean up the killswitch and the hibeam switch while I'm at it. hi-beam has been getting dodgy.

 

That is SUCK
That is not normal for VFR especially it is 07 :sad:
Keep us update with your progress.

 

Search for "vfr800 blue connection failure" and "vfr800 main fuse failure".


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

candy: I'm literally prepping to put together a candy build. I'd love your buildsheet if it's handy. I want 10 second slips, without straps and lowering. it's gonna take a lot of practice but I've got about 100 passes about on my VFR so I think I'm more or less ready to see if I can get there.

do you think there's going to be a big difference between a ceramic coated, at least half wrapped, port matched 98 header and a two brothers header, performance wise?

Do you have any tips on finding a relic two bro's or the other pipe out there? I'd like to run the single-mount pipe, and save yet more weight, but oh well. I'm center standless at this point too.

I'll aquire the RB2 within the next month for sure, that seems to be the VFR ticket. I've already snorkelled and de flapped the bike. the pair block is in the mail. I'm -1 on the frontside at the moment too. That seems to be the best way to empower 6th gear to pull to redline, theoretically providing no loss of top speed, and boosting accelleration meanwhile. if the engine mods pan out, I may find myself going back to 16T and seeing where the new specs put it, top speed wise. Again, we'll see.

Do you think there's an easier way to do the intake runner modifications?
If anyone wants to keep their eyes peeled from a cheaper-than-80 bucks shipped pipercross filter, I'm all ears on that as well. spot you a 5 buck paypalled finders fee if you find me a sub 50
I still have to find a cheap lambda delete kit, and find a dyno shop around here though. I may have a lead on that.

If Delkevic's new design had real numbers posted, I'd likely have it under consideration, but honestly, I don't trust that their sort of smash the pipes together into a mid-pipe sized collector is really gonna do anything for the topend. I'm actually betting on a loss.

 

I guess I have discovered this bike falls on it's face power wise, exactly after it's peak HP is ahieved, about... 10 grand. 9500 something of that nature. my aim is to have it pull very very hard to redline, every gear. the big header, I definately understand it's necessity in this, which is why I'm stressing the questions in whether the ported, sandblasted, coated 98 can flow like a ... I guess semi purpose built two brother's header. It doesn't seem to be possible... to find the old school 2bro's pipes though.

 

Cheap lambda delete kit? You mean 330 ohm resistors from radio shack? It'll cost you like 99 cents.

As far as the header, I had a motad catless header for a while. It's based on the 98 header. It didn't do anything for power. The two brothers gave a huge top end gain though. There isn't really any thing to port on the 98 header. The primaries and secondaries just need to be much bigger.

As far as the velocity stacks. I don't know how much easier you want it.

And with tuning, rapid bikes are hard to find, but it looks like they are going to start reflashing the 2006 and up vfr800s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

So I think maybe my stator is hosed?

I just tested my multimeter touching the leads together, on the ohms, and it rolls 2.0 to 1.7.
Which is exactly what happens when I go pole to pole on any two of the three stator leads down to it.

Am I out a stator?

 

Should be less than 1 ohmn from post to post
http://www.electronicamotos.com.ar/technical-resources/library/known-issues/street_45400.html
Have you read this threat and follow the drill on post #9?
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=Rubo

 

and it's strange, because there's absolutely no stress to the 3 pin stator connector, or the the bike's 12v harness from the RR

What's more, I can't even DO the full drill, so to speak, because I can't get power to the bike's systems. made more hilarious by the 12.9 volts mearsured at hte battery. and TO my RR, from said battery.

 

At least it wasn't THIS bad...............

Squirrel runs amok in power station; 4,724 loose power in Michigan.: GOOGLE IT.

 

okay. another clue, I think??

the left side 12v turn signal light is Brighter. than the left. any leads? lmfao

gotta be some kind of a stupid ass short. I just need to find it