Is 10-50w too thick in the summer?

I was thinking thicker oil would cool better, but it look like I maybe wrong. I don't think I will run 10-50 any more than the oil I all ready bought. And just run 05-40 and 10-40w syn Castrol rt motorcycle. I doubt the 10-50 w will hurt anything but it may be too thick, on the other hand maybe it does work well? Syn oil flows much faster, so I don't think it would make the bike run much hotter. On other had 10-50w:wink: can take more heat for sure.

 

Your thinking way to much about this! Put in 10w-30 as the owners manual recommends & RIDE!!!

 

10-30 is a winter oil

 

Unless your driving in the Arctic Circle 10w-30 or 10w-40 is fine for year round use.

 

Maybe you should go over to vfrd, download the owners manual and read that bad boy. I already told you that you mixing thick oils is odd. Newer machines have closer tolerances and thicker oil is not required anymore. I run 5w-40, because it flows well for those cool morning starts, and then stays as thick as a 40 weight oil at operating temp. Like everyone said, just run what the owners manual said or something like it.

Sent from my fancy telly.

 

I guess, I won't worry about it, I over filled it a little-I take out that tiny bit, I am running a bigger filter the purculator. I think syn oil because it flows faster -the 10-50 should be ok ,but I won't buy it any more. I did notice it shifted a little slower which I kind of like.

 

You can mix the same brand of oil,

 

Well, while your mixing oil you should put on some trans fluid because the transmission and engine share oil supply, maybe some hypoid gear oil as well, probably 75w-140.

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About 30 years ago I was riding a 1980 GS1000G Suzuki. They are air cooled with a roller bearing crank and I installed a oil sump temperature gauge so I could get an idea how hot it ran. When I switched from 15W-40 Castrol GTX to 20W-50 Castrol GTX the oil temperature rose around 20° on average. When I went back to 15W-40 the oil temps went back down. I thought the higher viscosity would do a better job of protecting various engine/transmission parts. It might have done that but I wasn't thrilled about the higher temps, so haven't used a 20W-50 motor oil since then. I stick with 15W-40 now.

Make of this what you will, but this was my experience at the time.

 

Maybe a shot of virgin olive oil for overall good taste, and a squirt of KY Jelly for Woofie's encounters with his string of shemales.

 

I heard raw organic coconut oil is stable at high temps and doesn't oxidize easily. It is also good for your skin, so maybe it will help the fairings stay shiny too.

 

Years ago Castrol Racing Oil was made from fish oil and made the Grand Prix at Watkins Glen a very aromatic event, great smell!

 

Sure it wasn't castor bean oil? That's what Castrol used to be made with. Way back, even before my time. :glee:

 

think the owners manual is a bit out of date because syn oil flows faster than dino oil, the engine may get hotter on the outside ,but the inside where it counts might be running cooler.

 

I hazard to even enter this here post but, here goes anyway. Love the smell of Napalm and Bean-Oil in the AM...
I have ran Amsoil 20-50 in my 91 Mach1 Interschlepter since I owned it, got a factory pro shift kit in it and it shifts like "butta." Unfortunately, I do a yearly oil change on it now and it may get wiped down more than it gets ridden. My new Mach1 which should be called the "Mach2" I am doing the same maintenance schedule with and does not shift as nice as my older bike does.

My other bike, I use Mobil 1 10W-40, when I do the oil change it comes oot like water. Thats 2500 miles. My fords take 5-20 Mobil 1 and that oil looks like water going in and looks better getting drained (this means nothing) btw.

This here thread has the dangers of "snake-oil-salesman" as everyone is gona have an opinion...^liked the story aboot the oil temp on the roller bearing crank btw

 

I read why they recommend 10-40 is fuel economy not the longest engine life, 10-50 is better in hot weather because It won't burn up as easy and holds more heat.

 

The owners manual can't be out of date because synthetics have been around for decades, and your bike is only 8 years old. They just spec the minimums. Ducati, for instance, specifies 10w-40 for their air cooled models. That's surprisingly thin, but owners use it and they run cherry. You asked our opinions, yet you just try to justify your own stance. Modern, liquid/air cooled engines run thinner oils. Get used to it.

Sent from my fancy telly.

 

They sell zero 40 too, and I do remember when it came oot, doodes on the race track blowing up their motors. In the end, they got 3 more HP but it was for naute (sic.)

I drove one of my cars to good will, but towards the end of its life cycle, I started using a heavier motor oil, bear in mind, manual and oil cap told you to use 5-20, I never had a motor problem on it and did'nt hear noises, matter of fact, Mobil One did'nt even make a 5-20 back when I used to have these cars in the 80's/90's. Main thing is this; Pick a good synthetic oil, and change it frequently. End of Story, I gota eat my quiche now. May go oot for sushi tonight with my parents :hungry:

 

I stand corrected, I used Castrol R racing oil in a Mini Cooper back in the late sixties, and always remembered the smell at Watkins Glen, I just assumed it was fish oil because it smelled like it!
After doing some searches on Google, it seems there alot of guys that that feel the same way about the smell. Castor Beans not fish!

 

There's a lot of armchair physics/engineering thought going on here that really doesn't hold water (so to speak).

There probably won't be a hill of beans difference in actual engine/transmission wear between 0W-20 & 20W-50.

The KEY to lubrication in an engine is FLOW. You need @ 10 psi per 1000 RPM to properly lubricate an engine (varies slightly because you can have larger oil passages & more flow with less pressure) as a general rule. As long as you achieve that AND keep the OIL temp under @250 degrees, all will be well.

That said, 0 weight flows best at startup, so a 0W-XX oil would be the best protection overall, provided the upper number is sufficient to protect at whatever temp/engine abuse you run. I have regularly used AMSOIL 0W-40 in all my engines & have never had an oil-related issue.

ridervfr, do you have any hard data to support your claim the "doodes on the race track blowing up their motors"....? Because to my knowledge, doodes on the track are ALWAYS blowing up their motors because they're constantly pushing them to the limit....and beyond.