Temporary Power Loss

Right, but only after you've poked through the holes with a wire first. Neither carb spray nor compressed air will dislodge as much carp as a suitable steel or copper wire. Carbs need hand-cleaning part by part, not just a spray and blow.

 

Eh, worked for me.

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

 

Carbs aside, this sounds like either a bad pickup sensor module or wiring issue that has made a good connection again. To be safe I would double check all connections and make sure the grounds on the ignition modules are good.
If this was a fuelling issue then it would have been erratic and hard to maintain a consistent rpm. The description doesnt say anything about loosing power in degrees, eg loose one cylinder then two.

Your little vom can not measure below 10 ohms, so dont say it can. Even 500$ flukes cant get low enough to test an ignition coil. These are tested using resonant capacitance meters, these meters inject a signal of about 10khz and read the skew that the coil makes. This skew is the reactance and thus is calcuable to a resistance.
If all connections are good, the bike is running good. Then youll have to try and get it to do that again. When it does look for where the power is not. Your ignition modules need a steady 12v sources and use a hall effect or reluctance type sensor. Both can be seen as an ac voltage when working right and a dc voltagge of about 5 volts when not working right. The module outputs a voltage and current to the coil and interrupts it to fire the coil. So use an analogue meter and look for the dips at the 12v side of the coil. A working system will have large dips at low rpms and very small dips at high rpm. Be mindfull of the 90kv to 125kv coming out of the coil. It has some bite. If everything check out, consider bad coil on the high side and leads. These are carbon coated glass fiber, only a megometer can test these, your vom uses 1.5 to 5v for testing a megometer uses 50 to 500v to test. Best is an older crank type as you can do a continuous test and see if you get leak drop from the lead. Do not do any megometer testing on the bike! You will kill the sensitive electronics despite not connecting to them. I do leads on a metal table with one end cliped to one lead and the other clipped to the table. If you get a resistance lower than 50megohm then its bad. Shoot for 100 or more megohms.

 

good post zen, a little over his head i think. i use a huntron to check coils

 

I agree with you about meters, no way a $20 meter is going to read 1.5 - 2 Ohms.

You will like this article (PDF) by Tektronix:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...h4LIAQ&usg=AFQjCNFOrxzf462azs5pZD5eeB6Pvyx5Zw

 

No way a $300 meter is either, just too small to read. I have a pair of smart tweezers for doing pcb work, they can read 1 ohm but the error at 1 ohm is 5%. Doesnt seem like much but that will keep a circuit from working xD

Coils should be checked with inductance or reactance anyways, a way better method to know if the coil is good.

Fact: your 8ohm speaker has only enough wire on the coil to make about 1ohm resistance. The 8ohms come from the reactance and impeadence that that coil produces.

 

Check my reply again for link to good article.

 

Aargh!!!!

 

Intermittent stuff is always frustrating, never fails give something back to a customer and its gone for a day or two then they call you saying its doing it again.

 

that pdf was a good read

 

I solved the problem of the '92. I sold it Sunday. No worries. Watch this forum for the next chapter of "Bill's Adventures in VFR Land".
Squirrelman - Looks like I won't be shipping my carbs to you this time.

 

Disappointed cuz i love solving difficult problems ! What did you tell the buyer ??

 

I told him the truth. This was a good deal for the buyer. I heard from more than several people. Probably none of them were mechanics. I told the buyer, not everyone gets it. This is a good deal. Here's the ad copy in local craiglist:
I took over the overhaul on this bike from the previous owner. There is an intermittent power loss that is not ignition. I am trouble shooting carbs. The lower price reflects the value of a carb overhaul.
Good VA title "rebuilt".
NEW: Dunlop Q2s, front and rear - rebuilt all brake calipers, front EBC HH pads - rear brakes EBC pads - valve cover gasket front cylinders - Electrosport regulator/rectifier - oil & filter - coolant - clutch line fluid - brake fluid - Uni air filter - PAIR system removed - D&D exhaust system, left hand exit with new mid-pipe - AGM battery - fork seals & oil - lots of hoses - spark plugs - Honda factory service manual
25k on the clock, $1200.
Up close the bike had signs of its age. Tomorrow I'll post some pics of the '97 I just bought.
I found a 97 in Fredericksburg, Va. Nearly showroom condition. First owned by an engineer at a local Air Force base. Perfect tires, no front brake union, 2 - 1 Speigler front brake lines, Speigler for the clutch and rear brake. Little wear on the rotors, new pads. 19k miles.
I took Amtrak to Fredburg from Alexandria. $19.95 with the 'geezer discount'. Drove it back. It was getting cold at the end of the ride.
Here's the sellers' pics from his ad.