For those who have replaced their R/R, how did you route the wires to the battery?

Ive had my replacement R/R on the shelf for a year now and need to get off my a** and put it in. The wires to the stator are simple enough, but how did everyone route the wires that go to the battery?

Did you go around the front of the bike and down the left hand side? Or did you go under the gas tank through the tunnel (might get to hot in there?).

Any pics would be great.


Thanks!

 

Is this a remove and replace or an install with nothing there to go from. If it is an R & R, I would be inclined to follow the path used on the one you remove unless you believe that is part of the cause of your problems. I have never replaced on personally so I am not an authority on this. I am interested in hearing what those in the knwo have to say. My RR was replaced at 53K miles and I am sitting at 105K or so right now so I want to get an RR and carry it with me on my next long trip in case mine fails.

 

Im removing the factory one and replacing it with a better aftermarket one. The current wiring looks like it's weaved into a harness that I dont want to take a apart. This is also what makes it hard for me to pick the route. I was planning on leaving the existing wiring in there and running new wires (It's only 2, pos and neg, plus a fuse).

 

Sorry I can't help more. Those small black zip ties are your friend and are cheap.

 

Does your new R/R have connectors that match OEM or are they proprietary?

My new R/R had proprietary connectors on it, so I cut off OEM connectors for stator and extended wires (#14) to reach new connector. Stator connectors will cause problems with heat.

Then I ran 2 #10 gauge wires with 30 AMP inline fuse on + side from battery to proprietary connector and left OEM connector alone. I ran them back and under seat to battery area.

Now here is the critical part, since you have a 2002, and mine is a 2003, our wiring is the same. Does your new R/R use two connections (wires) like Honda did on Hot (+) and two on ground(-)? Or is does it have a proprietary connector with only one wire for each? On the OEM R/R there is an eighth wire that feeds 12 volts to the Engine Stop switch. I jumpered that wire in OEM connector (lighter gauge black) to +12 wire in connector (heavy red/white) to feed switch.

See the diagrams I put this post:
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/44817-Best-Reg-Rec-Upgrade

 

I got a FH020AA (Mosfet) so it has it's own connectors. I think I'll run it right to the battery like you did. Did you jump the Engine Stop Switch at the wiring harness or a different location? Ive been wondering about that wire for the longest time and no one could answer, Im glad Ive found someone that actually knows about it.

 

Yes, I used 1/4" spade lugs crimped on #14 wire, went from switch wire (bottom left) to first hot (top left) with 2 wires in spade lug and then
to second hot (top right), just to be on safe side.

Remaining unused connector. Middle 2 are the ground wires.

Here is stock R/R output plug, note double wires for hot and grounds.

 

Much appreciated for the info. I think Im going to try and knock this out this weekend.

 

Almost forgot, this is how I mounted mine (same footprint), go to Ace Hardware and pick-up 6x flat head screws (so they can be counter sunk), and drill and enlarge your current bracket like this:

Mount bracket first with long bolt facing out, then use short flat head so r/r will go over top, use stock bolt on left side and nut and lock washer on right side.

You need to enlarge or drill large holes so heads are counter sunk and clear everything.

Got to use stock bracket because of fairing support.

 

What is a VFRness?

I got the rectifier put in this weekend. Routed the wires up through were the stator wires come out of the side, up under the fuel tank and then under the seat. Worked great.