Electrical problems

I'm also wondering if my exhaust blowing might have something to do with it? My thinking being that it's thinking there's more air flow than there really is and thus flooding the engine as a result. Either way its not helping my mpg

 

Add new un told issue to the list, exaust leak? Major?

Lets fix one then move to another first. If you try to fix it all at once then nothing gets fixed.

Have you checked the connections?
Have you added conductive heat paste between the r/r and frame? This is the r/r frame contact and its heat sink so it should be computer cpu paste, silver is best but copper works. A thin coat is better than a thick coat. Yet another example of less is more. Battery connections are next. Take em apart and use steel wool and rubbing alcohol to clean them then put them together and coat in dielectric gease. Check voltages, key off engine off Should be close to 12.2 or higher. Key on engine off it should drop a little but stay above 11.8v. Now start it. Measure again it should come up to 12.4 or 12.6v since the load is jow shared by the charging system. Take it for a ride. 20mins should be enough but longer is better. Keep rpms up in the 4000 or higher range. Then check the battery voltage again and it should be 12.8 or more then get some help or aligator clips and measure the voltage at the battery as you rev to 5000rpm. It should come up and flutter 13.6 ish to 14.2 ish. This flutter is normal and is caused by the meter sensing to fast (chock another reason analogue meters will never go away). Write down everything and post it here.

 

I dont think it's major esepcially as it's after the oxygen sensors. it's at the connection between the cat and the pipes leading to the silencers (standard exhaust system)

Unfortunately I've not had much time to do checks on the bike as all my days off have been taken up with trying to organise my wedding.

Tomorrow it's off the the stealers (dealers) for a chain & sprocket replacement as well as checking what the cause of some movement in the rear wheel is (Might be hub bearing)

I'll try do all of what you suggested next Tuesday & Wednesday

Unfortunately parking the bike is not an option as I need it to get to work and get around etc.

I will however charge the battery tonight and hope it's holding it charge.

 

congrats on the wedding (I think?)
make sure the rear wheel movement isn't in the swingarm, it has two bushings that can wear (though haven't seen it yet) but if its just the wheel then remove the chain and rim/tire combo so its just the hub and you need a dial indicator to check the run out on the hub.

when at stealership, get front and back sprockets and a new chain, changing the chain and back sprocket only is like wiping your butt with your hand. sure it works but something is very wrong still. One bad sprocket can kill a chain which can kill the other sprocket. yes I understand the cost of it, but good insurance over redoing the works in a thousand or so klicks. and while your at the parts desk price out a stator and a r/r unit as that's whats may die next.

between the cans and the cat the o2 sensors cant see nor care about, they just want to see whats coming from which bank of the engine. added flow just means added fuel use, but your also gaining available power from that use. I run gutted cans which is about the same as a good leak at the can side of the cat. no issues so far and the extra fuel use is nothing to worry about. most ninja's and ducatii's need fuel before you do!

since you have to access the battery anyway, take the time to clean the terminals with a good wire brush, use a stainless brush over brass for best results and make sure you clean the wire terminal too.

 

Not to worry I have a full DID Xring chain and sprocket kit, stealership are just fitting it for me, I'll them to check the bushings too.

I'll just have to do a full run down of the electrical system when I have 2 days off next week, gonna check all grounds, connections etc. Hopefully it is just a connection

 

After fully charging my battery last night, I am happy to say that on the way to the stealership, I opened it up abit (keeping in the speed limits at all times of course ) and the power drop after 9k seems to have stopped. So that's one thing for now

Unfortunately it is going to be with the dealers whilst the order in new hub bearings

 

Well that proves your not getting enough power to the battery or out of it. Be warned that bad connections can and do kill r/r units. The stator usually fries from too much load, like heated whatever and extra gadgets. The stator only provides 34amps (a little more but dont count on that not quite half amp). The r/r is capable of 40amp continuous, but if it has to keep up a dead battery and contend with bad connections it raises the voltage to compensate, this kills it as it gets hotter. Leading to it eventually being unable to keep up. This process reduces the amount of amps that it can handle and deliver, so consider adding in a permanent volt meter, I have two for testing with. One directly for the battery and one I clip into the r/r out and to the r/r frame. There should be a difference of less than 0.05volts, preferably less than 0.02volts (wire resistance and battery charging drop).

Hope the stealership gets the parts in fast!

 

So what does that tell you?????

It screams at me you still have some sort of charging problem - because with a full battery the bike runs OK. Put the other way - the bike was playing up and magically just by recharging the battery the problem goes away.

It will be interesting to see those battery volts readings next week. I fear that new RR you fitted may be suspect. If so then please consider getting a decent MOSFET type RR - if you can handle a few days delay for international delivery these folks : http://roadstercycle.com/ are probably the best people to go with - as they know their stuff and are always happy to help if you have any problems with the install. If you email them with the precise specs of your bike including frame VIN number they will even make up a ready to plug straight in RR unit for you.


Take care and congratulations on the wedding!!!!!!:smileyfb:



SkiMad

 

It doesnt scream charging system. It says that part of the load the charging system had to bear was removed. If it didnt have to charge the battery then it had enough power to do other things. Like run the bike at 9000rpm, which takes a lot of power to do.

Before jumping to a solid conclusion, let him get the measurments that we asked for. And to check the basics.

Oh and fyi 6th gen r/r units are a mosfet output. We still use the same rectifier diodes but the output is a mosfet. The aftermarket/alternative units have better cooling and higher rated parts. But not many people will or care to believe that since they dont know how the things work, just plug it in and go and hope the next one doesnt pop.

 

Bike still has trouble starting so concerned about that, not sure I could afford to pay for any more parts though, the stealership is already taking out a new mortgage for me!

Also I emailed roadster before and their units arent plug and play, I cant solder not do I have the tools/money to do so

 

Look for an amature radio operator or see about getting help from a local electronics club. Model railroad clubs usually have one or more electrically savy person that can solder and has their own equipment.

Stealerships make it feel like your one sale is paying for their kids year of college. The exact same part is usually had for between 30 and 75 percent of the dealership price. The funny thing us that most the time you have to wait for them to bring it in anyway.
Im all for supporting local and am willing to pay a bit more for that service, but not when it is way out to lunch on price difference.

 

Right so done more battery voltage tests today, here's the results:

Cold start:

Ignition OFF, alarm armed: 12.68V
Ignition OFF alarm disarmed 12.63
Engine running no lights idle 14.6 (with wax idle unit running) and @5K 14.6
Engine running with lights idle 14.45 (with wax idle unit running) and @5K 14.45



After a 40 minute ride:

Ignition OFF, alarm armed: 12.78
Ignition OFF alarm disarmed 12.73
Engine running (warm idle) no lights 14.3 and @ 5K 14.6
Engine running (warm idle) with sidelights on 14.5 and @ 5K 14.67 (only thought to do this test with 2nd round of testing
Engine running (warm idle) with headlights on 12.5 and @ 5K 14.48

Judging by these results and what I've seen in other threads, this may point to the stator being faulty and the voltage drops alot when warm, anyone else concur?

 

12.5 is too low at idle, ohm the stator when hot

 

So shortly after getting it back from dealers all seems ok, bike starts/fast idles fine now, no problems with engine power at 9k. I will check my grounds and frame returns when I get a chance but I think I'm clear?