I have play between the sprocket and the wheel, is this a bad wheel bearing?

So, there is the sprocket which is bolted to something (I don't know what its called). Between that piece, and the rear wheel, there is play. I can grab the sprocket and wiggle it side to side, while everything else stays in place. Is this a bad wheel bearing?

 

There are usually rubber shock absorbing blocks between your sprocket assembly and the rim.
Looks like this (My VFR):
View attachment 25759
Click on picture to enlarge

 

If play is rotational, it might be worn out Cush drives.
If play is side to side, or up and down, it is probably bearings.
Either way it should be looked at and replaced.
You should download the workshop manual and investigate.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for the input. You guys are awesome. The play is side-to-side. NOT rotational. So the rubber blocks provide a gap between the sprocket and wheel? And once they are worn down they provide more room for play?

 

If bearings were OK, there would rotational movement, as the sprocket assembly and the rear wheel share the rear axle, correct cuelho1?

 

Sounds like the rubber spacers to me. I would still double check the bearing, you have to take most of it apart anyway.

 

Again................? :grumpy:

Asking about wear on parts, it always helps to know the bike's mileage. In your case the hub (not wheel) bearing may be shot and needs investigation.

 

Squirrel, your asking them to separate and differentiate between tire, wheel, hub, hub shaft, hub bearing and hub bearing outer race. That may be too much.

 

If bearings are good, you can have rotational give from the cush drive, & this is ok. The more play, the harder it is to be smooth on/off throttle.
Squirrelman is correct, the VFR is more complicated because of the single sided swing arm.
The cush drive allows the rubbers to take up the snatch on drive, makes life easier on the drive train and smooths out the piston pulses (which are not evenly spaced on a VFR by the way).
I've checked mine, and I have practically no play on my cush drive, only a bit of give if you move rear wheel rotationally while bike in first gear.
There is a number of bearings inside the hub assembly, typically you would wear the sprocket side sooner, but this is dependant on the seals as we'll.
The point is, you really shouldn't have any side to side play at all.
You can undo your rear hub pinch bolt and move assembly forward as much as it'll go.
Remove you chain from the sprocket & redo your pinch bolt.
Now have a bit of a feel to see if you can see where play is coming from. Grab wheel top and bottom & try twisting it, not rotational but top away/bottom towards you, if you know what I mean.
Do the same with the sprocket.
Also place a leaver under the wheel while bike on centre stand, and try moving it up and down.
There should be no play anywhere.
It's a good idea anyway, to dismantle the hub every year and clean/grease.
Now is good a time as any.
Here is a link to exploded view of drive components:

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pie...-13MBGW41-VFR800FI1-2001-F__1600-VFR+800.html

Go nuts.

 

Basically he's saying to test it like you would for a ball joint on a car.

 

Sorry, just realised you're talking about a VFR700.
No single sided swing arm on that one, but same rules still apply.
No play side to side.
Try this:

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pie...3-13ML7G41-VFR750FG-1986-F__1400-VFR+750.html

Still go nuts.

 

Same principal.
You're just checking for play, a bit more critical then a ball joint.

Funny thing is, I couldn't be bothered working on my car, but I don't let anybody work on my bike.

 

Its not that I dont trust mechanics, I dont trust their book keeper. That and they will tell you something has to get changed but when you double check it, its fine. Not all are like this but I've found a few. The dealer only gets to work on my stuff if its warranty and the only way its going to get done is by them. Else they give me the part and I do it.
But if you don't have the mechanical knowhow and are not inclined to learn, well thats what mechanics are for. Just not on mine.

 

Post pics.

.

 

Be sure to verify that rear axle nut is proppaly tightened to about 75 ft-lbs FIRST !



A bit of circumferential slop isn't a big problem, just need to be smoother taking up clutch to avoid a lurch.