Just Ran A 10.82 At 127.4 Last Night

I mean I am launching the bike as absolutely hard as I can, I am at 51,000 miles on the factory clutch with heavy springs.... lol

 

'e wouldnta wanted it no otha way, our Billy ! .........Or is it Billie, what a blasted bitch ^$&|@ SHE is !


CANDY, that's really very impressive !! That's not far off from V-Max or FZR1000 times from magazines back in the day. Hard to believe no clutch problems yet, must have a special talent. RU running any special spiked-up gourmet fuel ??

 

lol just pump 93. i have tried 91 and 100 ethanol free and i have tried leaded 110. i havent noticed any changes with either.

 

hopefully i can get a dyno tune before winter is over. if i can squeeze out another few hp and get some more passes while its cold out, i can get in the 10.7s.... and maybe 10.6s with a forged front wheel and new shock.

 

Not to get off topic but what's with all the urban crotch rockets with the extended swing arms? I would think this would screw up the handling and yet I see a ton of these bikes. Is this a style thing? I never tried drag racing, not even a little bit on the street. It looks damn cool though.

 

For drag racing an extended swing arm and lowered suspension plus fork straps are the best thing that you can do to prevent wheelies, allowing you to launch harder. One down side of this is that doing so allows little to no weight transfer. So depending how much stretch and slam, you may just get wheel spin instead of acceleration when launching hard. This can be countered with a drag radial, a burn out, lowering your rear tire pressure, prepping the track surface and or proper suspension tuning that allows just the right amount of rear squat during a hard launch.

The way I have my bike set up for drag nights and daily commuting are two entirely different set ups.

For drag racing I have my fork lowered an inch or so through the triples. Then I have ratcheting lowering straps to further lower the front end and eliminate almost all front suspension travel. This greatly reduces weight transfer but isn't too much of an issue on a prepped track with a standard rear swing arm.

On the rear suspension, I lower the bike about an inch by rotating the triangle plates 120 degrees. This further reduces weight transfer and wheelie tendencies by lowering the center of gravity.

As far as my wheelbase is concerned, it is still with in the factory range, but is at the longest amount allowed. I have a one down three up 520 non oring racing chain by sidewinder sprockets. They sent it to me extra long, so I could cut it to length my self. The factory swing arm allows for 1 inch of wheelbase adjustment to properly adjust the chain. What I have done is fully extended that adjustment and cut the chain to that length. If you say that standard wheel base is exactly in the middle, then my drag set up is extended by 1/2 inch.

Due to the nature of the eccentric hub, basically just a circle with in a circle that rotates, if the factory setting is in the middle full short and fully extended will lower the bike an additional 1/2 inch in the rear. So basically as you start in the center, when you tighten your chain, for each mm that you pull the rear wheel back you are also lowering the rear a mm as well. So fully extending the wheel base results in an additional 1/2 wheelbase and reduces factory ride height by 1/2 inch as well.

Now on to the suspension settings. With the front fork strapped there isn't much going on up front. You can add preload and compression to counter any bottoming out if you happen to pull a big wheelie out of the gate and land hard, but it isn't necessary and won't help your et's. With the rear shock, maxing out your rebound on a stock shock or setting the rebound to 4 seconds on a drag shock will aid in traction by not allowing the back wheel to bounce after the initial launch. Increasing preload and compression will reduce wheelie tendencies, but also reduce traction due to reduced weight transfer. The compression and preload must be set to track conditions with less than ideal track surfaces requiring less preload and compression damping.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Mostly what you'll see on the street is black dudes riding extended bikes. Kind of a low rider bike thing. The practice of extended rear frame goes back to what is called the "vertical" quarter of hillclimb bikes probably thought up by the first dude who did a wheelie up a hill well over a hundred years ago.

Pix:



https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...tiona...0...1.1.32.img..1.20.1929.U3FuvCZzUh8

Congratulations for never drag racing on the street. Me neither. Now we are the only two dudes to have not done so.

 

Now after that drag night last week, I didn't have time to reset the bike for street commuting. So I simply pulled the front lowering straps off and threw the mirrors back on. So basically riding around with the front lowered an inch or two the rear lowered 1.5 inches and the swing arm extended all the way out (0.5 inches). What resulted is a bike no where near as extreme as a lot of the chromed out boosas that you see on the street, but does require extreme care when going over speed bumps riding solo and not riding with a passenger. Turning requires much more effort and the bike just feels heavy, stiff and just generally shitty. In drag form it will still clutch up in second but requires more more effort to do so and just doesn't feel good in doing it. If an attempt of clutching up is made with cold tires or a surface that isn't 100% perfect, it will result in big smokey burn outs. All of these shinanagins are pretty entertaining for a week or so but the compromises get old really quick. I don't understand how people can daily these stretched n skewed bikes for more than a week. My general consensus after commuting for a week lowered and slightly stretched is the bike handled awful, didn't like wheelies or speed bumps, but did nice big smokey 30 mph burn outs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

But the other day I finally had enough spare time to get the bike set back up for street duty. I left the front end lowered, but raised the rear back up to factory. Then off came the plus three rear sprocket and extra long non oring chain. I left the one down 15 tooth 520 front sprocket and put on the standard count 43 tooth 520 rear sprocket. Then I put on the 520 oring chain with 2 links less than the drag race chain. This chain shortens the wheel base 1 inch from my drag race chain.

With the front dropped an inch or so, the rear about standard height and the wheel base shortened about a half inch, the bike now handles like a dream. It flicks side to side with the effort of a proper sport bike and transfers weight to the front and back as it should.

Even with just a 1 down front sprocket and standard rear tooth count, the bike now stands the F$&@ up in first gear if you even remotely think about twisting the throttle. Where before in drag race guise you really must make a deliberate conscious decision to lift that front tire. Now second gear clutch ups are cake and you can easily hold it up through 2nd , 3rd and fourth if you have a nice long empty road.

Also now there is much better weight transfer. Even with cold tires, it's really hard to spin up that rear when it's dry out and when getting on the brakes there is plenty of traction and rear tire lift. That just doesnt happen when stretched and lowered.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Not too sure why you are putting so much money and effort into trying to make a vfr do quick times....Wouldn't it make more sense to buy a quicker bike to start with ??
But each to their own I suppose.....

 

WHy not?

I'm guessin Candy is doing it cause he wants too..

 

I have to agree with the dude from UK on this one. This example proves his point:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/a...t-seductive-poses-hilarious-photo-spread.html

 

I understand. Sometimes you "run what you brung." Sometimes it is the challenge of making something that's not supposed to be quick, quick. As my old bike shop boss used to say "If we all liked the same things we would all drive Fords and live in Texas."

It is nice to know the VFR flag is represented at the drag strip.

 

I'm more of a built not bought guy. Any one can go to the dealership and buy a new Gixxer and go fast, but where is the fun in that, then I am stuck with a boring awful sounding inline four. I just can't do that. The thought of a new rsv4 or cross plane R1 has crossed my mind, but I just don't want to be crammed into a small sport bike. I am the treasurer of the university of central Florida motorcycle club here in Orlando, so believe me, I get to sample/ride a lot of motorcycles. All of these college kids have to have the newest and most technologically advanced bikes. I traded with my friend for the night on his brand new 636. It was awesome. Quick and light with a great power band. But no soul. No v4 feel and sound. And it's just too compact. I feel like I'm on the bike, not in the bike if that makes sense. Same thing with my other friends modded 2006 R1. Scary fast, awesome brakes and suspension but I just didn't like it. They don't have any character. No personality, just a razor sharp machine with no feelings no soul, just waiting to put you on your ass, the first mistake you make. I don't get that with my VFR. I love my VFR. The bike has loads of character, soul and personality, it feels like the bike is actually alive, not an inanimate machine waiting to throw me off. I love my Vfr, it just needed more power, suspension and brakes with less weight. Why buy a new bike that I don't want or care about, when I can just upgrade mine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Couldn't have said it better myself. :thumbsup:

 

Aaaahhhhhhh come on now Candy, you're just makin excuses...............:boink:

Nothin has sole unless it came from Detroit.

 

I am with ya man! I'm too am more of a built not bought guy but this is from a life time of pinched pennys and fear of huge bike payments. I have always liked the bikes I could make my own and refine to my riding style and my tastes. I am sure having the money to walk into a dealership and plunk down for a brand new ride is fun but I keep thinking of the instant loss of 2K right off the top that makes me shake my head. I would have to have lottery money to want to do that.

 

Fitting the rider to the bike is a biggie and works many ways. If all bikes were the same size and we were all the same size, no problemos. Some dude that is 5"1" and weighs 350 ..Oh well, need I go on?

I think drag racing in general has allowed the sport to fall into the "biggest and baddest" trough at least in the popular media. It's refreshing to see the oddball machines that are still being built and run and on occasion some really old rigs brought back to life. Or in this case a dude who wants to see how fast he can go on a bike of his choice.

 

Nothoing wrong with a bike with character and a rider with integrity. Sounds like a pretty good combo to me! Keep it up Candy Red!!!