Regulator/over-voltage issue

Ok here is what the numbers are, took me forever to get them as life got in the way of this.


Idle 13.7v
2000 rpm 13.3
5000 rpm 13.3
A-B .4 ohms
A-C .5 Ohms
B-C .4 Ohms
A-ground infinity
B-ground infinity
C-ground infinity
A-B 18ACV idle 52-53 ACV 5000rpm
A-C 18.1-18.9 Idle 51.7-53 ACV 5000rpm
B-C 18.1-18.9 ACV idle 51.9-53 ACV 5000 rpm
Hot
A-B .4 ohms
A-C .4 ohms
B-C .4 Ohms
13.4 V at battery at idle
13.2 V at battery at 2000 and 5000 rpm


Started the flow chart from electrosport and so far this is where i'm at for numbers
Red RR to Battery + .14
Black RR to Batter - Idle 1.0 at rev goes down to .1
I'm about to start the negative check, as I have a direct line from the RR to the battery.

 

Connected RR to Battery followed the electrosport flow chart. Still saying 8v. to battery from the RR to battery negative with a direct connection on the battery. About to move to step B

 

Cool, just one more thought here. There are 2 black wires coming off the RR Does it matter which one I use for checking the voltage? Cause I did both of them individually at the connector one read 20 volts, crazy, and the other was around 12.5-14.0 volts. After I had merged the wires together so they aren't running into the wire harness, that's where I got the 8-9volts from.

 

When I did the voltage tests, I had the black on the black and the red on the red for the idle and 2000 and 5000rpm. As far as I can remember I followed the directions to the T in both the online electro flow chart and the manual stating what to do for troubleshooting. I could see how it looks like it's running into the frame, it's just the picture tho. It's the two black wires from the RR connector merging into another wire and they are then all braided together so it could be sent to the battery instead of into the harness (if that makes sense)

 

yes that is correct

 

Ok one last thing before I buy this, as I just got the money, when I started the bike up tonight, just to do one more run through on the tests, because i figure why not before spending 150 bucks. My LCD screen was completely blank. Nothing, nada, zero, any thoughts on that one?

 

Done been ordered. I'll let yall know how it turns out when it gets in.

 

Hi All,

After reading the thread I am getting to a conclusion that my R/R has failed too. I have a VFR800Fi, 1998.

The problem started when I had my motorcycle parked up for good 3 weeks (while I was refurbishing front forks), and once by mistake the headlights were left on.

When I started it up I had to jump start using my car and when I went for first ride to test the forks, the bike died on me at traffic lights. It was dark and I had put the headlights on for the 10/15 minute ride. Luckily it was quiet road and nothing happened. I managed to push and get it started ( with help of a brave, strong, tipsy person ). On returning I checked the battery and found that battery had no strength left in it, though it is new one installed in March this year. I blamed the headlights which were left on for a dead battery. So I ordered a new battery and thought problem is solved, until I was out on ride with a friend and the motorcycle again gave up at traffic lights. Again, though it was day time I had my head lights on and which is why I believed it was R/R.

I did usual checks to see the voltage at idle and 3.5/5k rpm, but the voltage is always under 13v. Which again makes me believe it is R/R.

Though I am going to do the full charging system test coming weekend before I order R/R or the kit from RoadsterCycle.

I did read about fitting a 04/05/06 Yamaha R1 R/R to VFR800 1998/1999.

Could someone let me know if the kit has performed well and not done any damage to the electrical system?? And if you guys ordered anything specific or the generic kit which is available on the RoadsterCycle website/ebay store.

Thanks a lot for all the hard work and explanation. I am just bit worried as I am in UK and don't want to spend money lot of money on postage to find out I got wrong stuff.

Thanks once again.

 

If the car was running when you jump started the bike then you most likely fried the R/R. Do all the test described above an post the numbers and we can confirm if the charging system is good or bad.

 

Thanks a lot, I guess I am guilty of using running car to start the motorcycle, and seems I've killed the R/R. But, I am going to get the checks done over the weekend(hope it is bit warm and not raining) and post the numbers here.

Thanks once again for quick reply.

 

Hello All,
Finally managed to do the 'drill' after many days of bad weather and continuous rain. Unfortunately I don't have a garage, so bike is kept covered in front of the house...

Please find the numbers below, which have made me think it is definitely R/R and nothing else, but I am no expert and so any comments/suggestions would be welcome.


. “The Drill.”


I started off with a brand new battery, which was on trickle charger for few times.

1. Started up the bike until it was idling perfectly as before.
2. With engine at idle the bike was showing 13.5 - 13.8 volts
3. With 2500rpm, the volts were 15and above...
4. With 5000rpm, the volts were 18-19v...

(using the pdf from electrosport, I did check the volts between battery positive and red/green wires on R/R as mentioned on page1 last two checks, the readings were ranging from 11v to 17v which is way above 0.2, and though the pdf says I should check the connection and start over, knowing that my connections are all well, I carried on to stator checks below)

Stator Pins resistance
5. A to B - 0.5 ohms
6. B to C - 0.5 ohms
7. C to A - 0.5 ohms

Start to Engine Casing
8. A to Engine - No Reading
9. B to Engine - No Reading
10. C to Engine - No Reading

Stator Pins AC Volts with Engine Running
with engine idling
11. A to C - around 16.9
12. B to C - around 16.9
13. C to A - around 16.9

I've done above all and am thinking it is R/R, and I couldn't carry on due to rain taking over some sunny day, and me just having 2 hands...
But, hope someone can confirm that it looks to be R/R so that I can order the new kit with FH series R/R.

Thanks a lot, and have a great Christmas and new year..

 

what he said

But, seriously, the RR probably cannot withstand the potential currrrrrent of the car charging system. The first time I tried that was many years ago on my Yamaha. Needless to say it was a hundred dollar lesson. It fried the regulator.

 

I like the sig and have to agree that bikes are for people who love the sport of it! Cars are for full of people who are full of it. lol

 

The R/R is definitely cooked, the voltage shouldn't go above 15.

 

Thanks for prompt reply. Should I order one of the kits below, or do you think I should do through tests again before spending the money ??

Though, I am tempted to gift myself this and get the bike ready for summers...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380704480069?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


Kindest Regards,
gj6n68