Since I just bought the bike and already having issues with the charging system and the bike has 43,000 miles on it I am thinking of just replacing the entire charging system to make sure I don't have any more issues. so what stator to buy is my question? I will probably do the vfrness and one of the mosfet r/r's. I was looking at it a little this morning before work and I did find a larger hot wire that runs close to the right of the battery that comes off the fuse bundle is very brittle and looks like the insulation is melted and it was sitting against the frame (think this would be part of the vfrness, and part of my problem). I will probably pull the fairing and check the connections before I take it to my Honda guy, hate to bother him when I don't really need to, as I think I should be able to figure this stuff out myself.
The new style stator requires a new rotor as well, the O.D. is larger and will not fit in the old rotor. If it were me I would do the same and replace the whole enchilada as a blown engine is better than a charging system that does not work.
What year 6th gen do you have? You can add your bike year to your "my ride" section under your name. It is helpful to have all of the info, and if your bike has had (pre-2006 I believe) the harness recall performed. Can be verify by a punch out of the VIN, and/or a call to Honda.
There you go. Take your VIN to the dealership and ask if all the recalls have been done. Like Stuke said, there were issues Pre-2006. You might find your problems being taken care of for you free, but if you start tearing that apart, then the warranty might be voided.
recalls have been performed. No burnt connectors or anything, stator tested bad. how in the hell do you get the plug from the right side to the left side? almost tempted to cut it off and just pull it thru since I need a new stator anyway, but then not sure how to get the new one routed thru. gave up for this evening, cant see crap anymore in the garage and left all my flashlights at work. options for stator seem to be oem or ricks, anyone have anything else and had good luck with it?
ok, I ordered an oem stator. figured I havnt seen 100% luck on the board with aftermarket ones, and the factory one lasted 43000 miles and 10 years. I dont think thats to terrible if the next one will last close to that long I'll be happy. sstill have to decide how I want to upgrade the r/r. want to get it back on the road.
I got well over 2 times that mileage on my stator. Maybe I was just lucky I don't know. But mine was just fried when I broke down. I was in Vegas and OEM were back ordered for gawd knows how long so I went after market and haven't had a problem yet.
Nothin worse than breaking down on a trip, been down that road before. If for some reason partzilla tells me the oem is back ordered I will buy a ricks, I just seen quite a few post where the aftermarket lasted 1-1.5 years then died again. by the way, I had a small amount of oil on the stator and in the cover when I removed it, is this normal?
ordered a shop manual today, plus the vfrness and rectifier from wiremybike cant wait to get this all done, just want to ride. Finally was able to pull the wire thru the bike for the stator, not looking forward to trying to get the new one in there, ir trying to get all the plastic back on, the mean streak is definitely easier to work on.
(1) As for getting the wire/connector through the bike - you don't. Step 1 - to remove old stator - as the stator is dead I would simply cut off the old connector (the bit attached to the three wires from the stator NOT the bit attached to the RR!). If you cut the connector off close to the end you will have plenty of the yellow wires still attached to the stator which you can use to attach a length of spare wire using insulation tape. (The spare wire needs to be enough to go from side to side of the bike). When the spare wire is good and securely attached, carefully pull the wires through the bike until the spare wire emerges on the other side of the bike by the stator. Then disconnect the spare wire from the yellow wires. Step 2 - look closely at the connector you have cut off - we can use it to practice and get right the technique required to remove and re-attach the spade connectors. On the side there is a locking tab which needs to be carefully prised out (just a bit - thickness of a screw driver should be enough). At the front press a small flat blade screwdriver into the gap below the actual metal bit of the connector. The 3 spade connectors are still held in place by a small plastic tabs from below. Look closely at the picture and you will see the thin plastic tab which pokes into the metal bit. We separate the two by pressing a screwdriver in between. Slide in the screwdriver until the tab bends down and the connector will release and with a gentle tug on the wire it will slide out of the connector. Practice removing the other two connectors. If necessary push them back in and practice some more until you are confident. Once you are confident you know how to remove/insert these spades without damaging the connectors - we are ready to use this process to dismantle the connector attached to the new stator. Repeat above process to remove the three spade connections from the new stator connector Use insulating tape to attach them to the spare bit of wire running through the bike. Make sure the join is smooth and tight as any lumps can catch as you try to pull them through. There is just enough space but it is tight. Ideally with an assistant gently pulling from the RR side of the bike and you feeding it from the stator side carefully feed the wires through making sure you follow the routing of the original wire run. Once its through don't disconnect the spare wire until you have managed to get the stator properly installed and the wires and rubber seal properly in place. Fit new gasket. Take care refitting the stator cover as the magnets will probably try to slam it shut - you may find spare hands helpful even if its cramped for space. Once the stator cover is on, go round the other side. Remove the insulation tape and spare wire. Slot the three spade connectors into the connector. You should hear/feel a slight click when they are installed properly. Push down the locking tab on the side and then reconnect to the RR. (2) As for choices of stator, I would go with the OEM one. Hope that helps - let us know how you get on. SkiMad
Thanks for the connector tips! I did cut the connector off as I just couldn't get it thru then engine, and I did attach a string when I pulled it thru so I can pull wires back thru. If i can't get it I have a good friend that can, just hate asking him to work on stuff as everybody is always wanting him to fix things.
partzilla sent me an email saying my stator should ship on wed that there is a slight delay from honda. I hope they are right, would love to get it back together fri night, or saturday and get out for a bit on sunday. nothing like having a new toy you can't play with!
r/r and vfrness are here, stator should be here today, so hoping tonight I can get back to work on this thing, I just wanna ride! also did my practice on the stator connector this morning, one of the easiest connectors I've taken apart.
Its alive! everything seems to check out fine, went for a 15 mile test ride and so far so good. Gonna try to get it inspected and licensed tomorrow. Still need to wire up the accessory kit I bought from wire my bike, but for now I just wanted it running. project wasn't really that bad, I really expected more cussing and throwing tools. I have about 4 hours total in it. big thanks to ski for the pics of the connectors, that made that part very simple.
