motionpro syncpro tool fluid?

hey guys,

i made progress on my vf700f. i cleaned the carbs out holy god ive never had any carb this dirty! hope she runs good now!
i also had 3 of 4 diaphragms busted, i used gorilla glue like ive read about and gave them a coating in dielectric grease, just enough to revitalize the rubber and made assembly easy so they would stay where they belong. dielectric also helped getting the carbs back into the boots.

anyway a buddy of mine lent me his syncpro and theres no fluid in it as far as i can tell, without ordering the magic blue stuff can anybody verify if water will work in place of their special fluid? they said it was water-based liquid and to me it looks like water+blue dye....

or should i make my own manometer instead?

 

Water will work ,but is it the right fluid for that specific instrument?

 

You need either that crappy synthetic blue fluid that they sell, or get another tool. I personally own this tool and think it sucks, the old ones were great with the mercury, end of story. With this new tool, you need to calibrate it every time when you do a carb-balance. Its frustrating and takes valuable time away from you if your "on the clock." Flip side, Motion-Pro has excellent customer service and can guide you through various problems on the phone. I have a Morgan Carb Tool and think its a good unit...

Maybe its not their fault that they had to replace mercury with this crappy blue fluid, maybe it was the kommie state of California that made them do it?

Really doesnt help you oot here, you could try tranny fluid? Just drain the transgendered person before you use the fluid :wacko: Is that politically incorrect???

 

Mercurys are nothing more than transgendered Fords. This does not apply to Buells.

Gotta use the "right stuff" in manometers. The fluids can be anything from mercury to water. Standard atmospheric pressure with mercury is 760mm give or take a smidgen. Water is in feet. A tall order for synching carbs.

Somewhere in the world of used medical supply, there is likely a flow gauge that uses air and a stainless indicator.

 

What they don't tell you about these synch pros is that they are basically only made for 350cc machines and smaller and they cannot take more than 10psi vacuum before the fluid goes bye-bye. 750 carbureted bikes create too much vacuum and suck out the valuable blue gycol solution they put it in.
It sucks- literally.
Get dial gauges or a morgan carbtune or buy a set of used mercury sticks.

 

I wonder why they don't tell us that they are only good for 350cc machines. Could it be that each of the four fluid chambers is good for 350cc machines? Granted there are some four cylinder 350cc motorcycle engines but they are not real popular here. Maybe in Kansas? Nebraska?

If this is a fact it seems counterproductive and most dudes would be returning very pissed and returning the merch or running around with unsynched carbs.

The basic question here is why would this reputable company put out a substandard product when the customer base are usually a pack of gearheads or pro mechanics? Also, the fluid that is still of unknown composition is only five bucks.

The fluid may be a water/glycol mix with some added dyestuff for visibility but we should consider if indeed the mix is water and glycol, what kind of glycol. Glycol is essentially an alcohol. The two major types are ethylene and propylene. P glycol is edible and E glycol ain't. Both are fractions of antifreeze which is also can be blue in color. Same deal with blue ice packs which should not be used as popsicles.

 

I've got one of these tools. I used normal anti freeze, undiluted. The color is slightly orange instead of a dark blue. Its not the right kind of glycol, but I went with it anyway, and a few years later, it's fine.

It's fine for a 1300 cc motor, I don't know how you could say it's for a smaller displacement engine. This tool measures the relative difference in vacuum pressure, not an absolute vacuum pressure, as a dial vacuum guage does in Hg or Kpa. If the tool is registering too high, there is a dial that draws back the fluid evenly for each cylinder. In principal a carb work off atmospheric pressure limited at the float bowl, and the vacuum needs to be able just draw enough air over a drop of fuel in the throttle bore to get it airborn. The motion pro tool is fine will work with any motorcycle motor.

 

I use normal glycol in mine and it's fine. The actual amount of vacuum generated isn't the point of the tool, it's about balancing them so they are all the same.

 

Ok, the tech at Motion Pro was full of shit when he told me this himself, he said they never intended it to be used on bikes of 500cc or greater displacement and wished they would put a disclaimer on the device. He was getting tired of shipping out vials of the glycol because he was getting so many calls from people like me that had their 750s suck the juice out of the manometer. The glycol motion pro tool is a piece of crap and I went with a Morgan carbtune and like that much more. Everyone hates them on the CB750 website I am a member of.

If you are happy with it then bully for you, continue to enjoy.

 

I had the previous version of the Motion Pro tool with the mercury sticks and it worked well. Unfortunately a friend borrowed it and managed to suck the mercury out of the tool and into his Yamaha Venture. So we searched for replacement mercury but to no avail. I finally gave up and bought the new tool which hasn't been used much.

Before owning the Motin Pros I had a tool I made from fuel line that worked quite well when doing twins but since it would only do two carbs at a time, I had to choose a master carb and sync the others to it one at a time and it was a PITA.

 

Dukie.. it's just a manometer. You can't get too angry at it.

Sychronizing the tool is only a matter of using one cylinder, using thumb screws, disconnect then setting up each carb on a vacuum line.

If fluid got sucked into the motor, then you turned the throttle too hard, while the synch level was too high. Don't do that again eh?

It's a fine tool and works well. Nothing is wrong with the tool itself.

Anywho, as the throttle opens more and more, throttle body or starter valve snychronization matters less and less. It's for idle and only a little higher. Some people do synch at highway rpm's though, but I don't. It doesn't make sense to me. The volume of air at those rpms is large and the wear on each piston ring matters less and less for the total air volume because of speed/rpms are so high. It's for tuning the motor as the rings wear in and the vacuum of each piston changes over that time, so you tune the carbs to match that piston wear.