2003 VFR First Bike

(I hate that term BTW. Can't outgrow a bike unless you are only interested in straight line performance).
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(I hate that term BTW. Can't outgrow a bike unless you are only interested in straight line performance).
Like it +1

 

Thanks alot for the replies everyone, it really brings everything into perspective that I would have missed. So let's say I do decide to pull the trigger what are some prices you guys have paid on the Valve Adjustment for the 2003 VFR800 V-Tech?
Because most likely I am going to have to do that to the bike.

 

Thanks alot for the replies everyone, it really brings everything into perspective that I would have missed. So let's say I do decide to pull the trigger what are some prices you guys have paid on the Valve Adjustment for the 2003 VFR800 V-Tech?
Because most likely I am going to have to do that to the bike.

 

Not sure where you are but in Ca it will cost from $800 to $1100

 

DAMN!!!!
I'm in SoCal Los Angeles/Long Beach Area

 

DAMN!!!!
I'm in SoCal Los Angeles/Long Beach Area

 

If you are going to become a 6th Gen owner, you should know that it's a "VTEC", not a "VTECH". :tongue:

 

I bought a 2004 vfr for 3500 just to get use to riding a big bike, then traded it in on a new 2012 vfr. I live just two minutes from Long Beach and I ride with some friends from Long Beach and Carson area, let me know if you want to ride with us. I also have a mechanic in Downey that knows all about vfr and can do anything you want to the bike. He has already lowered mine two inches, installed a windshield, will be putting on my Dam Exhaust, and a lot of other stuff soon. Just pm me.
Good luck
Nikki

 

Another new rider here. I'm 5'9 or 5'10 at 155lbs and I'm coming from only two months of riding experience from an older generation lowered 250 ninja. The jump is massive but so as long as you respect the bike and ensure that you do not overestimate your abilities you should be okay. For one thing the weight management issue is solved by delicate throttle and clutch control and ensuring you have your sidestand and feet on the ground when turning it around (NOT WHILE THE BIKE IS MOVING DUE TO THROTTLE) ready to balance the bike. Always keep physics in mind with this type of bike.....feathering the clutch and slight throttle will make the bike much much lighter and easier to handle if you're trying to manuever the bike in a small area. And always keep that rear brake covered....gravity is always trying to pull you down so as long as you have force going to the rear wheel then you will have the bike on your side.

I've almost dropped the bike once; it titled over with the end of my handlebar making a roughly 55 degree angle but I righted it back up by grabbing the brake and screaming to myself "YOU'RE TOO BROKE TO AFFORD NEW PLASTICS NOW" . So it's all in how prepared you let yourself be for a situation. Happy to say my lean angles feel awesome...this bike feels so good around corners.

But honestly; if you're coming from NO motorcycling experience period...I'd shy away. The bike is a lot to handle if you're not conciously aware on how to ride (like counter steering, shifting your weight, delicate throttle control) and as a new rider it's a lot harder to have courage through turns and emergency situation than if you were to have already developed good habits from an easier bike to handle. For one thing; if you aren't already able to comfortably use the Front AND rear brakes at the same time for any kind of stop; your emergency stop will be dangerous. I found this out when a road suddenly ended and I was going 65mph. I got startled but pumped the rear and fronts but the front of the bike wobbled and threatened to fall over. A new new rider would death grip the bars and fall. Someone who made a good habit of grabbing the clutch and relaxing his grip in that situation prevented that fall. Like I did.

And as far as your VFR deal goes....I think it's a bit of a rip.....I got my '97 VFR with 15k miles in pristine condition with valve adjustments done, after market exhaust, CF mirrors, and a few other goodies with stock parts thrown in and all for only $1700.


Just my 2c

 

DAMN!!!!
after putting two and two together I figured the only reason why this dude wants to sell his bike is because he hasn't done the valve adjustment on it and it is too pricey. Even though it is well taken care of it's too expensive. 800-1000 just for that no thanks. haha
So i might get a Ninja 650 through Costco for $7974 OTD 2013. The power delivery is smooth and a little forgiving, just because ima be commuting with it, a ninja 300 is also on my list because of the MPG but i will be putting in about 1200mi. a month and I think the 300 will give in faster than the 650. Financing also so i dont mind. As far as getting a used bike which would be ideal, there's alot of jerkoff on CL. some of there are backed up in Registration fees owing about $700.00 which is alot, some need work done and since ima be commuting i run the danger of the bike malfunctioning on the freeway. Malfunctioning on these SoCal freeways is no good especially since we move at 80mph+ even though signs say 65mph.

 

Viffer800
Here is my advise to you, get what you like it is your money, I am 5'5" and rode many bikes the VFR still my favorite. If Cafox can handle it so do you. Just use your head and don't do stupid things. As for the valves adjustment many of us have not touch the valves and the bikes run fine many of the bikes of them over 100k miles. Yes it is five zero

 

So Scubalong you paid, $500 for your valve adjustment?
I mean i like the VFR but I'm worried about having the valves adjusted. is it a must?, what about the first service? The first service is diff. from the valve adjustment? How much and at how many miles is the first service necessary it has 20,000mi.

 

The search feature on here is pretty good..

Before throwing money at the bike have a read through some of these posts...

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/41107-Valve-Inspection-Holly-Crap
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...Looking-for-advice?highlight=vtec+valve+check
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/42138-Valve-check-results?highlight=vtec+valve+check

Its entirely your call if you buy the bike or get the valves checked. If the bike feels rough, has had a hard time or loads of track use then its probably well worth it as chances are some of the valves may actually need adjustment.

Problem is the cost of the "check" is mostly labour, and most valve "checks" simply confirm the valves are still within spec, so actually nothing gets changed - except your pocket gets a lot lighter!



SkiMad

 

I am in Orange if you need me to check the bike out for you just ask.
Yes I did pay close to $800 for my valve check at 16K and they all in spec so I skip until now close to 70K miles on my 2nd VFR
Yes my were hurt after the valves check.

 

DAMN nah that's too much for me. haha. it's not my time to get the Viffer lol

 

Just get the valves checked and adjusted at 32k miles...

Valves are not an intensive thing. Just lengthy and most of the cost is labor...you can obviously do the adjustments yourself for free. A day or two with your bike apart on a stand should be enough. If you're even slightly mechanically inclined the valve adjustments won't be a massive problem. All it is; is removing your fairing and making sure you mark everything you take apart. A valve adjustment is also a good time to throw in a bunch of new parts as well and to replace your RR with a better one. FUCK paying mechanics.

 

I had my valves checked at 20,000 miles. They were perfect. Not close, but perfect. The shop charged me for 5 hours of shop time at $85 per hour.