Cleaning carbs

Sorry, I was referring to the float bowl gaskets. The kind of rectangular gasket with the extra corners in it. Usually you gotta buy a 25 to 30 dollar kit to get one.
Thanks again.

 

We are talking about the same part. You will pay big bucks for the o-ring that has the curves molded in or just 75 cents for the basic one. You just push it in the groove on the float bowl and it conforms to the shape. It's a little tricky if it doesn't want to stay put, but not hard at all to install.

You just need to know what size o-ring to get. My 86 uses the "041" size. Wingnutter shows his 95 bike as using the 041. Chances are your 97 uses the same size as the 95 bikes. You can verify by measuring the your old o-rings. If the inner diameter is 3", then you need the 041.

If you need to buy a whole kit then it will come with the premolded pieces, but if all you need is the floatbowl seals, you can save time and money by getting the regular o-ring locally.

 

Duh, got ya now. I've done the same thing on hydraulic pumps-don't know why i never thought of it for the bowl gaskets. Silicone grease works great to help hold 'em in place.
Thanks again, great info.

 

Thanks for the info gents. Just took the carbs off the 94 this morning! Boxing them up and sending them to a member here for cleaning and inspection. Thanks for the thread Toe Cutter!

 

Well guys a bit more info my bike runs well...

however the boots ( 008 INSULATOR, CARB
16211-ML7-000 002 $13.98 $10.48 )required the removal of the clamp spacers and were not thick like the ones that came off, nor did they have the grooves for the pins and I used the grease front on tilt rear method with a twist... I ran the engine to temp before I tightened the clamps,then I took a big ass soft mallet and beat the mallet with my 16 oz. mall like a redheded stepchild then did the clamps, and I still do-not have a warm fuzzy, but they are in as far as possible the clamps are tight and motion pro is sending a refill bottle of manometer fluid out free of charge (my out of the box unit had too little)

Another thing I do is test the bowls for leaks after the tricky O ring install hooray no leaks ,but as I fired her up with the service tank in the picture and fuel pump running she wet the bed and I am so glad I read here that it will stop after a while. It did stop otherwise I would have redid them for nothing.

THANKS !!!

 

CARB metal hates any alkiline molecules in cleaning agents, so NEVER allow water mixed with any dish or laundry detergent to remain in contact, even for a day.

Same with water from the fuel tank, it eats carbs, corrodes and damages parts, with hard, white crystals growing everywhere.

 

Where's the 3 lb Sledgie?

In ridervfr's tool box. =8'D

 

you can use your own personal lubricant, :wink: just dont leave grease marks on the container our your romantic evening with the little missus is gona be ruined. ound: logic is this; it won't react with your condoms/rubber boots, thats all I have to say, and if any-of-yous are gona poke fun of that, DON'T because its "gimme" so you gota work harder than that...ound: yep, I do have some hammers...used a torque multiplier the other day, had to run something up to aboot 1200 foot pounds

 

I've had a rubber boot lip fold over as I pushed the carbs down. This was with new boots. I used a flashlight and small mirror to inspect the boots and saw the problem. I loosened the clamp way up and got it out of the way and I used a tool that looks like an ice pick with the tip bent 90* to carefully run along the edge and straighten out the rubber lip.

Installing carbs is such a pain in the rear.

 

That's a real danger if you don't have things aligned before you start pushing.....




Best way to avoid that is by carefully watching each boot as the carbs are being installed to see that initial mating is aligned well enough to proceed further.

 

I did make sure they were aligned. I think you get into a situation where one corner of the carbs start to push down (front left in my case) and it causes the opposite corner to raise up. It took 2 people to get mine pushed down and it was that right rear carb that had the boot fold under. That carb must have lifted a little.

I'm just saying always inspect the boots with a little mirror and flashlight just to make sure.


I've got an idea to more easily install the carbs.

1. Put clean cloth over carb plate to keep dirt out.
2. Place block of wood over top to spread out load.
3. Place bottle jack on top of wood.
4. Use rope or a tie down strap from frame sides to top of jack.

This way you can apply constant pressure with the jack as well as push down on any high side or corner. Add a little more pressure, inspect to make sure it's level, then repeat.

Don't have a bottle jack? Maybe use a long 4x4 block and rachet it down with the tie down strap. We all have those, right?

Does it sound like a good idea or a bad one?

 

Sounds like too much trouble.

The biggest issue is to not loosen up the clamps enough--that rubber has to be free to expand much more than you might think to get over the lips. Loosen the clamps and put lube on all the sliding surfaces--they will pop back on with just a firm press with your hands--in the front first, then the rear, kinda like your dates with old maryjane rottencrotch...

Using jacks and hammers is just asking for problems breaking stuff...

 

Here is a bad pic of the ole girl.
What kind of lube you recommend KennyBobby? Im getting my carbs back from Squirrelman this week and Im going to be re installing them this week. I would much rather them slide on than have to use a winch and mallet!
Thanks

 

Here is a little better pic but after plastic removal and 1 pic of the carbs prior to shipment.

 

Easier carb mounting

Use files and sandpaper on the intake side outer diameter to blend the flat outer lip back into a 45-degree section just in back of it to slightly reduce the outer diameter presented to the mounting boots so two flat surfaces don't meet squarely*, helping avoid damage like this ..........and easing install.



Time consuming, but saves time later. Do this if you're in the middle of carb cleaning, like in the middle of winter months TV with files, sandpaper, and beer in hand.arty2:
















I choose Dot 3/4 for lube cuz it doesn't harm rubber-like compounds i guess.........

 

Winch and mallet is for single person install. It's easier with a buddy. They can apply downward pressure while you make sure the boots are lined up, then both of you push down. Then one holds pressure while the other inspects then both push down again. It's easier with 2, but sometimes you don't have an extra person around.

 

You got that, constant inspection of each carb as it moves toward mounting is most important. One set of eyes moving around and another volunteer to push.

 

Thanks for the recommendation on the DOT 4. Didn't want to damage anything going back in. I will find an extra set of hands and eyes!

 

+1 on the Motion float bowl o-rings -- I've put these in several gen 2 & 3s as a matter of course. Their Viton, so ethanol shouldn't be a concern and it's just good insurance for about $1.50 per carb.......

http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/productCatalogSearch.jsp?q=00624810&numItems=10



......especially when they come to you looking like this:



JOE in IL

 

all the good stuff is made oot of "Vitron"

I went with the oem stuff, the bowl gaskets are already pre-formed, I added that link for those o-rings into my fav's, thanks, safe riding...

Hi Ice-Hunchin, much of this ??....>:smow: :wave: