CHAIN SLACK, from where to where...

Stupid question, but I drove a camshaft for 20 years so...

When they refer to the slack of 1" inch on the chain, what are we taking about

a) Being able to pull 1" up AND 1" inch down (2 inches total up to down pull)
b) Being able to pull 1/2" up and 1/2 inch down (1 inch total from up pull to down pull)

and

Where am I measuring the displacement, from the outer, center, or inner edge of the center link ?

TIA, Alfredo

 

Approximately 1" or as mellow said "close enuff is good" is KEY. Sloppy loose sucks but over tight is bad so dont over tighten it either. Approximately 1". Instead of tightening the chain, think of it as propperly slackening the chain.

Easy peasy tho no sweat 5 min task. Most prople dont find they need to tighten very often.

 

Only after it stretches does it need to be tightened!otstir:

Yes. Like what they said. Up on centre stand etc etc. and measure for close enough. Has worked for me for 100K miles so their advise was right for me.

 

Make sure to find the tightest spot another words less slack. Make your adjustment from there.

 

Pulled this from the service manual:



The underside of the swingarm is flat, measure from there to the bottom of the chain.

 

Yes I understand, but the question is. Should I be able to push up/down 1/2 " or 1". Based on the picture of the service manual that someone showed on this thread it seems that I should be able to push only 1/2 " up and 1/2" down, not 1". Am I right on interpreting the picture ?

 

With the bike in gear and the top pulled tight the bottom should be hanging loose, I would imagine 1" from it's hanging position ie pushed up.

 

That's what I thought until I saw that picture from the manual. I think we need to investigate this to the fullest

 

I don't think it's that serious, personally I always err on the side of too loose. A quick story - I recently had a new tyre fitted to my GS500, as I left the shops driveway I heard a new noise so I turned round and went back. They had set the chain too tight which it obviously didn't like, loosened it and it was fine. Thankfully I didn't go far enough to do any damage.

 

@Bryan. I had the same problem when I got a new tire on my old CBR600F2. Took it home and thought I was just over-thinking the noises on the bike. But when I took it to work the next day I was certain I heard a new whining noise. When I got home I checked the chain and sure enough the tech had tightened the chain to NO-SLACK. Poor bearings...and chain...and sprockets...and all the other people who get their chain tightened by that guy.

As for the OP's question, I believe you measure 1" from bottom-most to top-most. Usually I check when I'm just getting on or off the bike, I just pull the chain up with the toe of my boot and see if it moves about 1" or so.

 

Randy hit my "pet peeve" button again! Chains don't stretch they WEAR, at the pins and inner side plates. Just like "wear & tear" on an engine. Ya can't tear an engine. I seen one once and it's a big iron thing.

Now to stay on topic. You want an inch (or so) overall of slack. So up a 1/2", down a 1/2" for a total of 1 inch over all slack AT the tightest spot on the chain. You'll notice if you rotate the chain and check it in different spots, one part will be more loose than another.

Like was said it's not an exact thing but to tight or too loose is bad either way.

 

Grey, thanks for the response. I just found my owner's manual for the 6th gen, which I had lost (ended up in the gardening tool box, go figure) as you can see from this page it suggests the slack is only in ONE direction, in other words 1" from the rest position to the pulled up position. The service manual on the other hand (someone posted the picture here before) seems to suggest what you just said, half an inch each way. I suppose that is why everyone is doing it different and I am totally confused.

 

I looked in the 2002 VFR FSM and it says the same as Mlap5150 shows, 1"-13/8" overall. There should be no difference between your 08 and 02.

That's from the factory service manual. What's your manual? Not a Clymer or Haynes I hope. Chains have always been adjusted for about 1" slack overall ever since I've been riding. I started in 1975. Yea I know I'm old.....................

 

I think you will find that if you stay in close proximity to either manuals for adjusting the chain tension you should be fine. Just make sure it is not too tight. I believe the tension on your chain changes the moment you sit on the bike, or go over substantial bump in the road due to the pivot point on your side arm increasing the distance the chain must cover between the front and rear sprocket when the suspension is compressed. Yes?

 

Aw Grey, you missed all the fun on this one? (Which is what Randy was alluding too).

http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/42724-new-chain-should-i-get-new-sprockets.html

 

The picture I posted is from the OWNER's manual that comes with the bike, it is under the section Drive Chain Inspection. The one Mlap posted is from the 2002 SERVICE manual.

 

BTW, the swing arm is in the way of the 1" chain slack, so I am not sure how the f we are suppose to measure anything. If it is only 1/2 " slack then I suppose it is right on the border line. Another thing is that the little chain replacement indicator doesn't seem to be quite align. My bike has only 1800 miles (yes hundred) and the spokes do not align with the 'new' area of the chain replacement indicator sticker.

 

Welcome aboard and congrats on your bike. Holy smokes man, suffering from a little OCD when it comes to chain slack? Go ride... :wink:

 

I have to agree 100% with Pliskin. There is a certain mount of slack designed into this chain system on our bikes. There has to be. Tension on the chain changes for many reasons, be it load weight, torque or bumps in the road. Don't knock yourself out by measuring to within 1'8th inch or so. The specs are very broad for chain tension for a purpose. Make sure it is not sloppy, but do not over tighten it.

Even as your chain gets worn, you will find that there some links that are stiffer than others and will change your measurements. There isn't anything you can do about that. Pick whichever manual you want. Do the best you can with that manual and get on with enjoying your bike. Don't over analyze this.

Now if you are talking about getting straight lines on your lawn when you mow, then of course, that is a different story. Lines must be exact!