Suggestions on separating seized exhaust pipe joints...

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Boosh63, Jul 6, 2013.

  1. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    I want to install a new oil pan on my 98 and I hit a snag with the 1st set of joints right after the muffler. I've tried getting some WD40 in there and letting it sit. I've done (some) banging and have applied (some) heat. I say (some) because I don't want to hit too hard or heat too much. I could be just being too careful. I'm a handy guy but lack the experience. Is there a product out there I'm not considering or a special technique? I am assuming that these joints have never been taken apart in the lifetime of the machine.


    thanks in advance!
     


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  2. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    Sometime you just need a lot more force to get them out. Use some rust removal spray and more heat (a torch) is an idea. Don't be shy to use a BIG mallet :)
     


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  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    There are many excellent reasons why people HATE working on exhaust systems !!! And it always takes about 3 times longer than you than you thought.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013


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  4. TNRabbit

    TNRabbit New Member

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    PB. Blaster is your friend. Soak early & often. I start soaking about a week out~
     


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  5. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    A week out? Wow...so another tool to add to the box is "patience." :smile:
     


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  6. VT Viffer

    VT Viffer New Member

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    WD40 is also pretty useless as a penetrant. Like others have mentioned, PB Blaster is your best bet, and readily available.
     


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  7. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    I am now a couple days into heating it up...hitting it with PB Blaster and banging it with a mallet and repeating...:smile:
     


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  8. TNRabbit

    TNRabbit New Member

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    do you have a couple of pipe wrenches you could try to counter rotate it with?
     


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  9. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    Ooo...nice idea...I'll give it a go. I am being patient. I am learning the patience my kids never taught me...a hee hee!!!
     


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  10. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    With all this banging I'm doing would it be advisable to unbolt the header from the rear of the engine?
     


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  11. warbirds

    warbirds New Member

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    The header is fine on the engine-

    Apply desired liquid penetrant in a generous dose.
    Tap bolt heads or where bolt meets nut, this creates vibration which provides the opportunity for the penetrant to work more efficiently.
    Heat- The bolt will be hardened steel, while the flange and nut will not be. The softer metals will respond quicker than the hardened bolt- overheat and the bolt will act as a hear sinc and this won't work.

    Lubricate, bang, and then work on backing the nut off.
     


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  12. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    I didn't mention that the clamps loosened of right away with a bit of effort. I'm just dealing with the actual pipes being fused together. Now that I have patience in my toolbox, I see light at the end of the tunnel.
     


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  13. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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    :hss: You still work on the pipe...............?
    Let me go grap the hand saw and give you a hand :pound:
     


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  14. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    HAHAHAHA!!

    It's on there good! Actually I just freed up one of them and just finished giving the other the ol' torch mallet PB treatment...won't be long now.

    IMAG0381.jpg
     


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  15. Boosh63

    Boosh63 Member

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    Success!

    Thanks for all you help fellas!!

    IMAG0382.jpg
     


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