Need to turn my 5th gen VFR into a Power Plant (Charging and battery upgrades?)

I redid the AC stator volts
Temp for all tests 100c
Idle 1500rpm
AB 10.8 BC 10.8 CA 10.8
5000rpm
AB 11.7 BC 11.5 CA 11.6
Battery:
DC at idle 13
DC at 5000rpm 13.8

note: i did the same tests a few mins before when it was cold, and all the values seemed higher, dont know if that means anything.

As I said, I run LED's and a Stereo/gps, the extra led lights i have drop the battery down by .2v and the stereo amp/gps drops it by around .3v, with the bike off. I dont know if that changes things much.

If I need to get a new stator, who's best oem or ricks or eletrosport?

 

You might also want to consider cleaning the grounds.

 

what aboot OEM ?

 

With those readings your stator is still toast :smash:- see post #19.

If you are still uncertain - take the left fairing off, pull the stator cover, and post up photos of what you find.

A while back I got talking to an electrical parts distributor - who explained that things like RR's and Stators need to be seen like brake pads - things that wear out and WILL eventually need replacement. For electrical systems the big enemy is heat - that's why RR's fitted on newer bikes have large heat sinks and are normally located where they will get plenty of passing air flow. Even so they still die - you will find the same issues being discussed on other Honda model forums as well as Yamaha, Triumph...

As for replacing the stator - the easy fit option is to install an OEM stator. However in view of your extreme power demands its worth speaking to your dealer to see if there is a higher output stator/flywheel combo which could be installed. The stators fitted to the Honda Pan European and Goldwing look visually very similar, and may offer higher output to be better able to run your accessory overloads.

Take care




SkiMad

 

your stator output is way too low dude, you should be hitting <>70 vac between tany two phases

 

Things just dont seem to be adding up one way or the other.
Before I invest into an other stator, I thought I would ask if im testing it the correct way:


When I test it with my multimeter I set it too the v~ 200 symbol, then go postive A to negitive B , postive B to negitive C, postivie C to negitive A

Is that the right way of doing it?

 

Only need to disconnect it for ohm check. Voltage output doesn't matter. Need about 50-70 volts at 5000 rpm

 

I copied what this guy did in this video [video=youtube;5v2LtHlvcqI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v2LtHlvcqI[/video]

I did the continuity/ohm tests disconnected, and the voltage tests connected(like in the video) and I'm gonna feel pretty dumb if that was the wrong way lol.

 

Sorry meant it can be connected for voltage test, just use a pin to pierce the wires for test points. Just use a small pin

 

That is fine. Was output low

 

I ran the tests again, this time with the stator disconected, and this is what i got:

Idle 1500rpm
AC 21.5, BC 21.3, CA 21.4
5000rpm
AC 62.2, BC 63.8, CA 64

MUCH HIGHER! As soon as I reconnect it to the stator the values plummet. I am sorry if I wasted any ones time by doing the test with the stator connected, After watching the how to video I thought it was suppose to be connected for the voltage test.

So what does this mean? (aside from I must suck at following instructions)

 

Nothing wrong with that. It is fine

 

It seems your reg may have issues. If it has a shorted diode it will drop stator output huge

 

Redid the R/R

Some one suggested to heat it up with a hair dryer first, so did that.


and this is what my meter read
pos A 560 B 544 C 560
neg A 527 B 569 C 558
and all go to 1 when reversed.

If those values are acceptable then I'm confused. Why are the AC volts so much lower when connected to the R/R compared to when its disconnected? Even if a drop is expected when connected it's still on the low side isnt it?

 

Next step is check RR then if it is good. Drop load on RR by disconnecting accessory and check RR output again. Any power supply will maintain max current output but will drop voltage. Watts law dictates this. P=eXi where I will remain constant as E and P fall off

 

Not sure what your asking me to do.

 

Do ohm check on RR then if it passes that. Disconnect all external loads at the battery that are added on and measure voltage output at battery when bike is at 5000 rpm

 

That is called shedding load. Sorry sometimes I forget people do not have my background