Overheating - Please read, this is not another fan switch and blade swap question.

Balls, I thought I was. Apparently we have NO membership in the Mary-lands.........fukin fail. How to I pin myself on the map???

 

Disregard, just did it, I think, double check and make sure you can find me now wouldja!!

 

You're on the map sir!

 

For some reason I stopped receiving notifications on this post so I'm just now seeing this. Thanks for the reply, I'll give it a try.

I just took it for a ride today for the 1st time in a month or so. Pulled the rad cap and as soon as I turned it the 1st quarter turn air rushed from the cooling system into the overflow. She's sealed up good. I guess if it is the head gasket it could be re-sealing as it cools, keeping the pressure in there.

 

try reading your plugs. sounds like head gasket on the way out.

 

still trouble shooting this prob yet?
if so scrap the 2 factory pinch clamps on the return hose and replace temporarily with 2 worm gear fuel line clamps and re drive it again.
when i got my bike it wasnt overheating but it was definitely pushing coolant into the overflow container but sucking air as it cooled. replaced the return hose and put 2 quality clamps on in place of the factory pinch clamps and my coolant issues are over.
yours could very well be somthing just as easy.
never have cared for those pinch clamps on bikes or cars.

 

wildstang,

I'll Give it a try.

Here are the plugs, they were loose enough i could just about get them out with just the extension and socket, no ratchet. I don't think that's going to help the coolant problem but it definitely ain't cool!

 

I had the coolant reservoir tube mixed up with my little bypass tube on my 5th gen. It was over filling the overflow tank. Bubbling it over. I don't know what dumbass did that... lol

 

Wouldn't that usually cause one or two cylinders to misfire ?

 

Others, including yourself, have already mentioned this... fresh air definitely is being sucked into the system from somewhere. As you've noted, your leakdown test and, especially, the absence of oil+gas in the coolant strongly suggest the air is *not* from a cracked headgasket. That leaves the rest of the cooling system...

1. You mentioned that you inspected every hose. Did you also inspect/tighten every hose clamp? 2. Next, you next might want to inspect the coolant drain bolts (both of them), definitely *replace* their sealing (crush) washers, and tighten them to spec. If those bolts were opened and the washers were reused (they are supposed to be replaced every time the bolt is opened), it's possible for air to get drawn into the cooling system, yet not have coolant spill out. I would start with this cheap diagnostic test/potential repair. Did the PO mention messing with the cooling system aside from the visit to the stealership?
3. If that doesn't work, you could then replace the thermostat housing gasket and water pump gasket, since there's no leak test for them. Also, you might want to inspect the fast idle wax unit since coolant runs through it. This is also cheap, though time consuming.
4. The sensors are also potentially a cause of air leaks. The problem is unlikely to be the temperature sensor since it seems to become airlocked (no coolant rushing past to pull in air) while air is still entering the system.

If you really want to be thorough (and it wouldn't take too long), you could take apart the whole cooling system to inspect every piece and replace every gasket and sealing washer.

Good luck! Hope you resolve this soon.

 

Coolant system holds pressure... for weeks with the bike off. I have also pressure tested at the local dealer.

Air would not be sucked in, it would need to be forced in under pressure. That is the whole mystery to me.

Not sure if i mentioned this before either, but i never lose any volume unless i allow the reservoir to overflow. I could ride the bike all day if i stop every now and then and move the coolant from the reservoir back in to the cooling system.

 

This is exactly the symptoms for a faulty siphon hose. It will cost you less than $10 to replace the hose and clamps. It is the line that goes from below the cap to the bottom of the reservoir. For the love of God, please replace them and get on with your life.

PS: I told myself, that I wouldn't repeat myself, again, but the fact that you obviously still haven't changed it yet is driving me nutz.

Git'er done!

 

Replaced overflow hose, same symptoms.

 

Holy crap on a cracker!

Fluid is leaving, but not returning.
Pressure tested serviceable.
Siphon hose replaced.
A cracked reservoir would show signs of leaking. The only other thing would be the rad cover above the lower gasket. Perhaps you could do a quick pressure test through the tube you just installed, back to the rad.

Are you still having the one cold rad issue? I forgot about that.
Have you replaced the rad cap? I'm thinking that maybe the check valve is not allowing the fluid to return.

If not that, then I would suggest a exorcism.

Sorry, I'm running out of straws to grasp.

 

+1 for the radiator cap test/replacement. Same pressure tester for cooling system can be used to test holding pressure for the radiator cap.
1.1 bar is the spec (~14psi I think).
Return/check valve in the radiator cap you will have to inspect visually, I have no clue if there is a specific test for it

 

I just read that you tried a few radiator caps already, with no change in behavior. It is probably unlikely they were all bad.

I would change my vote to head gasket, as tinkerinWstuff points out. It is probably leaking during operation, when engine is hot and expanded. When things cool down and shrink, head gasket seals again.