Oil Level

Well, I'm old enough and wise enough to know not to believe everything I read on the internet. No matter how many times a person post. Have keyboard, can post...

 

I think the answer for this dude is to change the oil and filter on his bike. Check the sightglass when the engine is cold then never ride the bike again.

Then (sob) how bout us poor SOBs who just have dipsticks?

 

My oil is always slightly over the fill line when I change it, lol. It does not do a damn thing so don't worry about it. Being slightly over the line is one thing, filling the entire sight window is another, hehe. :tongue:

 

it DOES fill it above the window !!!!!!!!!!...

 

this is the VFR1200F manual clutch that i am talking about and THE RECOMMENDED AMOUNT OF OIL FILLS THE ENTIRE WINDOW...am i not being clear about this

 

What isn't being accounted for is oil shrinkage and expansion. Some oils are affected by temperature so much that they can expand in volume as much as 20%, within normal operating temperatures. At sub-zero temperatures, the same effect is reversed. There are cases recorded at the South Pole of the bodily volume of penguins diminishing by as much as 42%.

 

Shark, dude, really. How can I be more clear about this, lets try this, ahem........


the fucking book, is fucking wrong end of story


The definition of insanity is performing the same task the same way and expecting a different outcome. You, sir, are clearly insane. If it overfills it, then under fill it, just a touch, say 1/2 quart, that should get you to the middle of the sight glass, now you have a more appropriate measurement for your proper fill ammount that you can jot down in the manual next to the, clearly incorrect, factory spec. On future oil changes you will be able to precisely meausre to your hearts content and fill your engine. There, fixed it..........:chaingun:

:kaboom:

otstir:

:hss:

:vtr2:



:banana:

:loco:

:boobies7:

:argue2:

 

what the fuck is your problem

 

I am really anal about many thing both to do with my bike and others. The lines on my lawn after a cuting are almost always perfectly straight, and when I copy my insurance papers on my computer, I clean up the fold marks left behind. So I knwo anal. But as far as the oil level goes, if you are between the lines you are dead on. There is no such thing as a perfect amount of oil in a street bike. Maybe a racer, but now an every day ride.

BTW. 2006, bought brand new in the crate in August 2006. It now has about 102,000 miles on it, all mine (or I have been behind, ahead or beside it). And I follow the between the lines rule. Not once have I had a problem that was oil related. For that matter I have really had little problems with mine at all. I have never added oil other than at an oil change either and there have been some very hard and long rides. I ride year round and even caught in the snow a couple times.

But if it tickles your fancy, continue to measure and try to get it exactly at the full line.

 

I've always used the sight glass (or dipstick) to fill the oil in all my bikes. After I drain all the oil (warming up the bike first), I reinstall drain bolt with new crush washer, install new oil filter and then I fill the motor with oil. I typically buy what the manual says I need and round up to the nearest full container. i.e. If it takes 3.5 quarts, I buy 4 quarts of oil.

Since you cannot get every ounce of oil out of the motor, unless you completely disassemble it, it stands to reason there will be some residual oil pooled somewhere inside the motor. So you really can't go buy a number of quarts/ounces listed in the manual, as you will be off from the start.

I start refilling by putting in a majority of the oil in and wait for the oil to settle and to where it is just at or above the min level line. I then start up the bike and let it idle for less than a minute and turn off the motor and again let the oil settle. Once I let it sit for a few minutes I'll continue to fill the motor with oil until its just at or below the max level line and then start the motor and let it idle for a few, shut off the motor and let it settle again.

After several minutes I'll check the oil level and adjust it until it is just at or below the max level line or wherever in between the min/max lines I feel is adequate. I only use the manuals written number to determine the minimum number of quarts to buy not to measure and put into the motor. That being said, since I can get the Rotella T6 in gallon containers, I just grab one gallon container and call it a day. It should go without saying, but I'll state it anyway, the bike is on the center stand on a level surface when performing an oil change.

Cheers!

 

Those signs are awesome. :tongue:

 

I may have a solution for this dude. Ya take an old video cam from a used computer shop and wire it up to one of the popular tablets. Get one of those tank bags that holds a GPS and put the tablet in the bag. That way a dude could watch the sight glass whilst riding. The little cam could be put on with duct tape or even painted to match the bike.

This as the more astute will recognize will only be operable with bikes with sight glasses, for dudes with dipsticks you are shit out of luck.

 

Agreed! Now I want to see some pix of Randy's lawn that no doubt looks like a putting green.

 

:mechanic:This device can also be employed to prove pictorially anal retention of the non-metaphoric type.

 

Best post of this thread!

I just changed oil on the Viffer over the weekend. No manual necessary. I can kinda understand the OP's gripe about the manual stated amount being off... kinda. The rest? :crazy:

Heaven forbid the anal retentives should attempt to bleed the brake and clutch. OMG the fluid line isn't parallel to the marking!