getting the old girl ready to ride again, wanted opinions on exhaust paint. I used a cheap spray last year and it didn't even last through the season. Anybody have any luck with something that lasted better? :tongue:
There's lots of bass boat builders in Murfreesboro. If you can hook me up with a new 20' bass boat with a 250 on the back at dealer cost, I'll buy you all the exhaust paint you want.
When I gutted my stockers, before putting on the heat shields-I got some rattle can hi-temp satin black and put 3-4 layers on without even having to touch them up going on 1500 miles or so----JMO
First get rid of visable oxidation. Wire wheel ect., or even a slosh of muriatic acid. The acid is a 10% solution of HCl and you can get it in the garden departments of places like Home Depot. Be real careful with the shit it will burn you. Multiple coats help. Don't buy the cheap stuff. The big secret is hot curing. Apply your paint (actually a coating) let it flash off (dry to touch lightly) then fire up you bike and let it get hot. Small parts can be cured using a heat gun or if you got really big cojones. Your wife's oven set to 500F or the self cleaning cycle. Good luck with that last one..
you need paint like BBQ grill paint. It should say on the can that it works up to 1000*-1200*. Spray on several light coats not thick coats. Then it will last a couple of years at least. Any hi temp paint for less than a 1000* doesn't work that well or long. I've found both black and silver in those temp ranges.
For colors other than black and white, knowing that some of the dudes here like pink but are keeping mum about it, try Sherwin Williams for thier hi-temp coatings. They bought out a company in NY several years back that manufactured only high temp coatings. The name is "Flame Control Coatings". Another is a rattlecan packaged coating called "Stove Bright" A little hard to find but a well stocked retailer that deals in woodstoves ect., will have it or can get it. Several colors and metallics. SOS on the prep. Best IMO to remove any scale or oxidation by abrasion. Do not prime or attempt to convert the iron oxide to iron sulfide with one of the "rust converters" now available in rattlecan form by Sherwin-Williams/Krylon..Great stuff but not made for high heat. It's in an aqueous/copolymer base and will burn off under the high temp coating. Just the thing to start a conversation at "bike night" if one is so inclined..raising the word crusty to another level..
The tricks to keeping the paint from burning off, is to media-blast the pipes to remove rust & old paint, clean well. Most, if not all, high temp paints "HAVE TO" be heat cured / cycled after drying. Follow the directions or the paint will not last. Good luck.
Thread revival I have been working on this and wanted to share. All exhaust clamps removed, front (2 and 4) removed at engine and waiting on 1 and 3 for this week. One good thing about working in aviation is access to a media blaster. Hope to do it this week and get pictures. I have bought some rustoleum 2000 degree paint so hope that makes this worth while. I figured I would do it right and completely remove the exhaust. Come to find more projects as I make clearance. I will add more this week but here are better pics to justify all this work...
Should be just fine with a white metal blast... Take a look at Sherwin-Williams "Flame Control" high temp coatings if you get the chance.. Great stuff.
For a quick easy job use Rutland Stove Polish (for wood stoves). It's a wax based pigment that looks really nice. You can rub it on with a rag. It's so easy to apply even with the headers on the bike. And, it goes on really smooth and even. I've used it on my Suzuki GS and it looks really good. After a ride when it's cured it can even be buffed with a rag to a semi gloss look. I've had it on about a 2000miles and it still looks good. It will eventually fade but it does not flake like paint. I just did my VFR with VHT Flame Proof Header Paint (from Autozone). It's ceramic based and good for something like 3000 deg. I followed the "on the bike" curing instructions. It's only been about 3 weeks since application but it looks good and I can tell it will last. It made my rusty pitted headers look almost new. I can tell will last.
Update... I have almost completely removed the exhaust. The rear headers are still joined to both mid sections and once removed I will blast. Still considering all paint options and I will make a decision soon.
A day late and a dollar short but its done! I used the VHT paint. Hopefully this lasts a while, happy with the results. A new clamp is on the way for the right side can.
