Cleaning carbs

On the carb? That hole right in the middle of the picture? It's either where the fuel line gets hooked up to or a breather I believe.

You need to buy the Honda Factory Service Manual.

 

It is the float bowl vent, do not plug it.

 

OK, Thanks everyone. I figured that would have been too easy a fix to the problem. It looks like the carbs will be coming off for a propor cleaning.

 

Don't forget to order new insulator boots!

 

That's a vent line from the float bowls to the atmosphere and must not be plugged. Make sure that line on both front/rear carbs is open, something you can confirm by blowing air into the hole.

 

Something to add, and I recommend removing the fuel supply valve and gas guage apparatus (for lack of a the right term) and swishing some acetone around in the tank. That or laquer thinner will clean off all the shellac on the tank walls.

I had to do this on the old Ninja900 I am working on, yet fucking again! Due to an improper first restore on my part.

I remove dthe parts as described abaove. Wrapped the tank in plastic wrap then over that wrapped aluminum foil. Dumped in about a pint to quart of acetone and shook it liek a polaroid picture. Did that a few times till the acetone came out clear. I alos wore chemical gloves as I had to use my hands to plug the open holes.

Nice and shiney tank inside afterward.

BZ

 

Here is a pic of my vent tube. Note that there is an aluminum tab held by a screw that has a ring for the vent tube to go through and hold it in place. Those plastic tubes get pretty fragile with age.

 

Ahh, that's what the little ring is for. I have the ring, just no tube.

 

I got lucky with this one. The previous owner had some work done on the carbs back in the beginning of the summer and it appears that the rubber connectors between the head and the carbs were replaced then. The carbs came off pretty easy and the boots were still soft and pliable. The carbs even went back on with no drama. :smile:

Thanks for this write up. It gave me the confidence to tackle this job with very little reservation. As I expected, the main jets were fine, but the small jets were all plugged up. I had to run wire through them, blast them out with compressed air, rinse and repeat several times. The bike idles so much better now, and the low speed throttle response is more like I thought it should be.

 

I love a happy ending.

 

I just did this at lunch today!

Don't we all.

Great pictorial TC. I'll be digging into this process later on this week.

 

The vent tube pictured above:

If one had fuel pouring out of that, only when the fuel pump runs, after a long period of storage, what might he likely issues be?

Stuck floats?

 

That would be my guess. Either the float hinge, or the float valve is sticking. (Or maybe the float has a leak and has filled with fuel, so it isn't floating and closing the valve.)

 

This is a bitch the first five hudred times. Install the front carbs and tilt rear boots off engine to help mate with bad angle on carbs and attempt to show it some lovin.It may take more than one attempt and maybe a beer or ten. Does get easier after you do it a few times.

I learned while racing the carbs come off and go on real easy when the engine is hot, as when your making jetting changes. I found a hair dries on the carb rubbers make it much easier to remove the carbs when the engine is cold.

 

Ever try the trick of angling the boots (1/2 on, 1/2 off) to better align with carbs ??



something to try if earlier efforts failed and you're sweating profusely.

 

My recipe:
1.) Almost boil water....take pan to bike, put boots in for a few minutes to soften.
2.) Take boots out, apply light vasiline/grease around edges of boots
3.) Put front boots on motor, rear boots on (balanced) or as you say tilted.
4.) Put front carb assembly into front boots lightly at first, then push a bit "whole assembly evenly to seat.
5.) Should go right on...if not stand on bike frame, hold handle bars then push "easy" with foot, onto carb assembly.
Alternate method is to use a strap lock by wrapping it around and then squeeze them assembly into place.

 

I also used the rubber boots in hot hot water trick.

worked very well.

 

Money and carbs 1995 vfr 750

Well boys' time to contribute to the board.
Here's the low down

keihein Needles 12.50 each @ carb parts warehouse 2166351099
oem boots (from the link above) 41.52 all four
Bowl gaskets all four $3.00 from Motion Industries The specs for the VITON 041 FKM-75 o-ring are:



2.989” ID

.070 cross section

Took them off last night and looking forward to the rebuild and synch

Any jetting tuning tips are welcome, I plan on putting them back the way I found them jetwise unless y'all say different.

 

Hey, can you give us a little more info on where you got the float bowl gaskets? I looked up "Motion industries" and all I could find was an automotive fluids wholesaler. It would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks!

 

You can usually find them locally. Look for a shop that builds or repairs hydraulics. Those places tend to keep every o-ring under the sun.