PAIR removeable help (w/ pics)!

6th Generation 2002. Bought block off plates online. I have the tank completely off and took the little valves and screens off the top of each valve cover. THen put the new plates on with a little gasket maker.

So now what? What all to I remove and take off now? I have the following pic showing where my finger and thumb are pointing. What are they and what do I do with them? My middle finger is pointing to a little plug. Do I simply remove everything and leave that plug there with nothing attached to it? Also, is there an evaporative cannister? If so, I'm not seeing it. Other than a little black cannister thing on the front of the airbox.



Do I do anything with this little black cannister on the front of the airbox? Or any of the other hoses?

 

Click on this link and scroll down to my reply in this thread.>>>>>http://vfrworld.com/forums/6th-generation-2002-2009/28141-help-de-pairing.html

Yep. The EVAP canister is this big ugly honkin' thing right here.




Follow the vacuum hose from the Evap canister back to the purge control solenoid (which is bolted onto the left side frame rail under the fairing panel) and unplug the electrical connector at the purge control solenoid.
Tape up that electrical connector,then remove the vacuum hose on the purge control solenoid that leads up to the throttle bodies and cap off that vacuum hose securely. You don't want any dirt or crud to get sucked into that vacuum hose Michelangelo because it has a straight shot directly into your engine. (Just a heads-up,I removed that vacuum hose right at the port on my throttle bodies and capped off the port. It's kind of a biotch to do it that way because you have to remove the air box. That's why you see that vacuum hose still attached to the purge control solenoid in my pic below.)
Now unbolt your EVAP canister and purge control solenoid and remove them. Here's a pic of what those two components look like off the bike.

 

Ok so sounds like I got it about right then. Just need to plug the airbox hole and tape over the connector for the PAIR solenoid. I've already got the airbox off. Is it worth taking the fairing panel off to do the evap cannister as well?

What is the other little black valve thingy that is attached to the rear right of the airbox? It has a small hose going into it from the bottome and is held onto the airbox with a short phillips screw?

 

That's up to you. Realistically it's just a coupla extra pounds of useless crap hangin' on your bike.



Here's a pic with that EVAP canister removed. I can tell you that changing the oil filter now is sooooooooo much easier without it.

That's a vacuum chamber.

 

Ok I think I'm getting close to getting this correct. Thanks for the walk through by the way.


I got the cannister off the right engine side. I now have just that little solenoid thingy hanging off the right side of the engine. If I understand you correctly, I unplug it and tape off the plug so no gunk can get into it? Then I follow the big hose to where it T's off into four smaller lines, which go to the throttle bodies? And I can either pull those little hoses and cap the spigots right on the throttle body or I can just plug the big hose altogether before it T's off into the smaller ones? Is that correct?



Two unrelated questions:
1. Do I need that stupid wire leash that is bolted from the tank to the frame?
2. I have heard something about unplugging or blocking one of the hoses coming off the underside of the tank when I do the evap removal. Can you explain that? Is that correct? I realize one is the vent hose but why would the other need to be plugged?

 

Yep that's correct.

Yep that's correct too.

You can either cap off the hose or the port on the T fitting and call it a day,or you can remove the T fitting and hoses altogether and cap off the ports right on the throttle bodies like I did. That way you remove a bit of unnecessary clutter in the engine bay and end up with this.

The gas tank tether is there to prevent the tank from flopping over backwards while you're performing maintenance on the engine,that's up to you whether or not you want to remove it. It's kind of annoying but I left mine on.

DO NOT block or remove either one of those hoses on the underside of the gas tank. The smaller hose on the left in my pic below is the gas tank vent hose. That hose connects to the EVAP canister,simply unplug it from the EVAP canister and cable tie it loosely to the frame. Make sure that hose routes all the way down to the bottom of the bike.

As you burn off fuel while you're out riding air has to replace the space above the fuel in your gas tank and that hose is what allows your gas tank to breathe. If you were to plug it off you would be out riding happily along and suddenly your bike would sputter and die and would refuse to restart because the tank is vacuum locked. When you opened the gas cap you would then hear a quick inrush of air and your bike would start once again. That's a dead giveaway for a pinched or blocked gas tank vent hose.




The larger of the two hoses in my pic above is the fuel overflow hose. Open your gas cap Michelangelo,look off to the left of the main filler hole and you'll see a small hole. That's the port for the fuel overflow hose. Make sure that fuel overflow hose is routed nicely under your gas tank to the left side of the bike where it cannot pinch or kink and is routed through the little hose guide on the left side of the oil pan. Also make sure that hose hangs out maybe an inch or two below the edge of the left side fairing panel under your bike.

What is the fuel overflow hose for? Well if you were to accidently overfill your gas tank the excess fuel would drain down that overflow hose and be deposited onto the ground below your bike. If you didn't have that fuel overflow hose connected to the tank than all of that fuel would dump right onto the top of your hot engine.
Nice! Raw fuel and an ignition source makes things go BOOM in a hurry.
If you plugged off that fuel overflow hose and overfilled your gas tank enough then all that fuel would simply run down the outside of your gas tank and onto your hot engine once again.

 

Great, I think I got it all together. It seems to run fine and I'm not getting any error codes. I did figure out the two hoses from the tank were the overflow and didn't think of it being the vent hose. Either way I got them hooked up and routed cleanly even before I saw this post. But thanks either way!

I ended up cutting the big hose to the throttle bodies, an inch from where it T's off to the four bodies. Then put a plug in it. I was so pissed and irritated that I didn't feel like taking the throttle rails off to get to the spigots. Ugh, this is the worst bike to work on I have ever had! The stupid rubber grommet/nuts on the sidepanels have given me fits as they popped out multiple times on every hold on the leftside fairing when I tried putting it back together. took me over 2 hours of messing to get them correct and fitted properly.I still can't figure out how to get the little black rivets to fit back in? Are they one use only or can they be reused?

 

LOL!

If you think working on a 6th gen. VFR800 is hard Michelangelo try working on an RC51 sometime. Everything is mass centralized to the extreme,things are so densely packed between the frame rails that it's almost stupid. :lol:

Those goofy little Black panel fasteners are designed to be reused. Here's a pic of how they're designed to be removed/installed.

 

Heck don't I know about mass stuffed bikes. I have a CRF450X and getting to the carb is impossible without moving the tank and everything on top. What a pain in the butt compared to other offroad bikes. Of course my KTM690E has to have the rear shock removed to even adjust preload. UGH.


I have a Rhino side by side that is in need of a top end and rear drive axle oil leak fix. I'm putting that off and hoping I can find someone affordable to do it for me. I have too many toys and have run out of patience. This vFR reminds me why I've been out of plastic bodywork bikes for a while. At least my Triumph Daytona had dzus fasteners on most parts and only 4 parts to the entire fairing!

Ok I'll give it a try on these fasters. Are there any others that you recommend to replace this oem ones?

 

Thanks again. Man, these things are a PIA. I've got one of them in but it's not very secure, even with the caphead flushed after I pushed the arrow insert in. 1 down. 3 more to go! (Would be 5 more to go but I replaced the lower two on the fairing lowering with well nuts and screws.

 

Stosh you sure have a lot of free time today
Great job for helping other. :thumbsup:

 

I haven't seen your bike naked before but wow, just wow, amazing detail. :thumbsup:

 

stoshmonster what kind of header system you have there? looks like it's catless. if you don't mind me asking where did you get it. how much etc...

nice blike btw

 

The 5th gen non-cat header bolts up to the 6th gen bikes.

 

WTF Scuba!

How did you know I was just killing time waiting to go to a company anniversary party?

Holy Smokes was it that obvious? :lol:

Thanks my friend. Just trying to lend a hand and be a good neighbor.

I got that Stainless Steel catless header system from Sandy Bike Spares LTD in Roxton,Bedfordshire UK Neptech. It was fairly expensive at $500 ($400 + shipping).
I then sent those headers out to Classic Coatings in Sheboygan,Wisconsin and had them Satin Black ceramic coated inside and out.

 

Looks like a good day project.

4 beer job?