Create a collection of clutch rod oil seal fixes (besides splitting cases)

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by Captain 80s, Oct 17, 2012.

  1. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    I have a 500 engine that I hope to use soon that needs this fix. I thought perhaps people could post what they did as a fix, how it went and how it has held up. I know there has been some crafty solutions.

    It would be a great resource for anyone that has this issue. Sticky if popular?
    Mike.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2012


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  2. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Hey again Mike-
    For me, when mine started leaking I chose to do the "slide shrink tubing over the shaft long enough to go under the oil seal" route and it has worked like a champ on my 85 version for....2500-3k miles so far? I bought the new seal and everything, but found this to be cheaper and has held up. Get a pkg of varying sizes and use the one that fits the tightest. Then I heated it a bit on the shaft to shrink tight. It compresses the leaking seal JUST a little bit. Make sure it's long enough to allow it to move thru the seal though. Too short and it will only push against it rather than slide thru it and compress it.
     


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  3. jcarpfishman

    jcarpfishman New Member

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    I'll agree with wgregt, but you ought to use the proper material. According to < Clutch Rod Leak Repair >, normal heat-shrink tubing will not hold up to the temperatures and the oil. They sell short pieces of shrink tubing that is rated for the temperatures and chemicals.
     


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  4. hopit88

    hopit88 New Member

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    +1 You do need the special shrink tubing to make it last. I've also heard of people simply flipping the rod around in cases where there was a wear spot on the shaft.
     


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  5. Alaskan

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    Remove rod and pug the seal with a bit of rag, grind away the aluminum seat with a dremel tool, remove the worn seal, apply Loctite and tap the new seal in with a socket. Presto!
     


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  6. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    This was my original plan. Every other seal on a Honda does not have an external lip. I'm sure there's a bit more oil pressure behind that seal than in most other applications, but I can't see it popping out a seal that's held in with Loctite. But I may try a $4 piece of high-temp shrink tube to start with.
     


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  7. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    Another idea - the leak "improved" when I switched to Amsoil 10-40. Coincidence? Not sure.
     


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  8. WGREGT

    WGREGT New Member

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    Just putting loctite around the seal and sliding it in the hole (thus pushing all the loctite off, since the hole is tight) is enough to hold it in place you think? Or are you thinking of adding loctite to the FACE of the seal, all around the edges where it meets the hole, and saying this way will hold it in?
     


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  9. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Around the seal. I think there will be some remaining residue film of loctite on the seal somewhere to adhere to the cases. Maybe a film of Hondabond on the face and case. Plus, since it's that tight of a fit, the seal shouldn't be going anywhere anyway, even dry. Just like on a shift shaft or countershaft seal.
     


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  10. Alaskan

    Alaskan Member

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    Around the seal. I think there is a pictorial on this somewhere here or elsewhere on the net. I'll look for it and post it when I find it.
     


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