Carb Jets - what's the deal?

So on the idle or secondary jets...all 4 of mine stop where the jet changes shape. In other words when I stick a pin down in them, it stops at the same place in all of them. I watched a vid where your suppose to be able to push a pin all the way through. So i am curious if these are after market jets or..??
Ok second question on the starter jets that cannnot come out, (I presume)...they are only open about 1 cm into the opening.
So? Is all of this varnish stopping them up or some premade thing?
If I need to order new jets fine but I don't wanna put this together again without some advice. Thanks..
(already soaked them overnight-no luck in anything removing)

"Life is an adventure - Don't be scared to live it.!"

 

If you can't clean the idle jets proppaly, just replace them with new ones.

The long tubes that feed the enrichener circuit usually get plugged at the exact level where fuel sits in the float bowls, and you need to poke and peck a steel wire (about .012") into the holes until you can slide the wire in to a depth of about 30mm before you can be sure of a clean tube and best starting-enrichment action on that cylinder.

 

Bike pirate, what did you soak those jets in? If it was only gasoline it won't work. Gummout or Seafoam should work but it may take a while. Once you can push the pin through, then you should use aerosol Gummout and the tube they give you and force the Gummout through. You can use this method on the enricher circuit as well.

 

a #12 electric guitar string is hardened steel with a spring temper and works best to clean out the pilots and the choke. It should go several inches into the choke jet. Clean out the mixture screws also and make sure the transfer and the mixture exit ports are clean.

None of the over the counter drugs or carb cleaners that you can buy will do any good, except Berryman's B-12 aerosol spray will sometimes loosen the varnish so that you can wipe or push it out.

The Berrymans liquid in the pour can is missing some of the more highly toxic solvents that the spray has--and that is why it works!

 

You're a guitar player, K-B ?? Allah-bamy bluegrass ?? Or you can only tune a carb ?

There's a useful set of carb cleaning wires in various sizes from MotionPro or elsewhere if you have the quid without hanging around a music store.

 

Soaked 'em in Berrymans Chem dip...so the aerosol works huh?...pause..
Even dripped a few drops into the tube while pushing a wire through it...have hit 'em with compressed air too, not budging...yet.

 

I play guitar...just threw away my old strings..figures..ha

 

So the jets that are stationary ( starter jets I presume) I have a perfect wire rod but can only get it down about 1/4 inch, which does not seem right based on what you said. Is it usual for them to be this hard to clean out & what is the best way to continue? Do I just poke and spray/compressed air etc. and eventually they will clear -or- will I have to get new carbs altogether, ya think? Everyone seems to be against drilling but I DO have a perfect size bit...
idle jets are clean ..mains are clean. Thanks ahead of time for any advice.

 

Now you're scaring me--what makes you think you know what size drill bit would fit? The jet is not the ~1/16" opening on the end of the stationary tube but it's a tiny orifice located deeper down inside that tube.

No Drilling- the #12 guitar string is your tool for carburator poking. Pour or spray B-12 from the top side thru the choke piston chamber. If you can soak the area to soften up the sludge then push or blow it out.

Cleaning carbs is not just about spraying useless chemicals and air, but includes verifying that all air and fuel circuits are clean and dimensionally correct.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/1st-2nd-...r-circuit-identification-porn.html?highlight=

 

Wow..got it..! I see that I was mistaken, now this makes sense..!

 

Clearing the crud from the enrichener pick up tube takes time and alot of pecking with the wire to gradually poke through.


Even if the tube remains clogged, it only effects "choke" operation for cold starting, and only on that particular cylinder.

 

But it has been my experience that in cold weather it'll foul that cylinder's plug, so it may be worth the trouble to unplug it.

 

Not one to question a respected resident of Bernallilo county, where i once spent a very unpleasant night in the county detention center (stopped in Gestapo gulch with AZ plates going the speed limit), nevertheless, i wonder how LESS fuel would be prone to foul a plug ??

 

Another resurrected VFR500F

Great idea! My son and I just drug home a VF500 that has been sitting over a year. You guessed it, it ran on ether but that was it. We have just completed cleaning round one and it will NOW start! Yippee! How do I get the pilot jets out? A prior owner tried to remove them but they where too tight and the top of one has started to splay. Where can I buy new pilot jets? What type are they? I found some 22 series #38's and #40's reasonably priced. The add says they fit some O.E.M. Honda's. Do you think they will fit? Thanks Steve in Missouri.

 

You will want the 38's not the 40's. This is one of the few times that Visegrips is the tool to use once the screw heads have cammed out and splayed the brass.

 

Ten four. How about a little heat? Small torch on the pliot jet base?

 

NO TORCHES, please !!!!!!~ no matter how small ! Shouldn't be necessary to use heat, and carb alloy is brittle, weak and doesn't like much heat.

Just use the vicegrips like KB sez.