Front tire wont spin freely

I noticed this issue today on the highway when I could hear a noise coming from the front of the bike which increased in speed as the bike increased in speed. I'm not sure if it is a wheel bearing issue, a brake issue, or something else. I'm going to pop the front calipers off in the next hour or two so that I can spin the wheel without them and see if the wheel still wont spin freely. As of now, I can give the front wheel a decent spin with my hand, and it wont even make a full revolution. Disks look fine, and weren't super hot after my ride. If it is the front wheel bearing, is it something that an amateur can fix?

Thanks.

 

There is a proper way to torque the front wheel. Check your manual for proper torque and procedure. After I changed the front tire I had the same problem.

 

I figured it out; it is a brake drag issue. I pressed on the calipers the way the manual says to before you change the pads, and the front wheel now turns freely. I'm going to start a new thread about brake drag.

 

Brake drag deserves a whole bloody blog, Bunkie !

Your drag willl likely return if you didn't fix anything, just identified the problem.

On VFRs the most frequent causes of drag are dirty, sticky pistons due to bad seals and dirty, unlubed slider pins not allowing the calipers to move freely.

 

+1 for squirrelman also from the warped disks

 

That is something on my list of to dos also. Change out all my brake seals. Aproximately 10 bucks a piston for the seals. Adds up with nine of them. I helped mine out by letting them extend out a little further than they normally would and cleaning them the best I could. Sure seemed to help my brae drag.

 

If I take my front wheel off and pump the front brake, will it "over-extend" the pistons? If not, I think I'll do that and lube them up.

 

Yeah if your brake pads are still in . But I would take your pads out before you clean them. I wouldn't put any lube on them though. I just clean them best I could then folded up some 800 grit sandpaper and polished them up a bit. You don't really want any kind of lube that dirt may stick too. Dry and clean is best

 

You'll need a large C-clamp to move the pistons back in after moving them out for cleaning. Use green scotchbrite if needed on the pistons and brake fluid as lube. Sometimes things loosen up alot after the cleaning and after moving the pistons in and out 2 or 3 times.

As taylor mentioned, removing the pads while doing this is best.

 

If the bike is an 02 how many miles are on it? is the fluid all nasty and shit? Every bike could benefit from a brake fluiid service imho...AnywHooo-if your gona go thru the trouble you might as well do it right and get new OEM honda seals and dust seals and DOT 4 fluid and go at it. While your doing it, might as well upgrade to a braided steel brake line. Don't forget new crush washers from your friendly dealer...

Your pistons are not re-tracting. End of story. There is mug behind the seals and this is whats preventing your wheel from spinning freely after you release the lever. Use your lever to eject them pistons and go to work cleaning them. Its fun yah know!!!! Just dont prepare food that night as your guests will not like your durty finger nails. Its all about Zen yah know :tongue: Gud Luck and have fun!