Wax Valve Replacment

Hello out there in honda world. Thisis my first post ever on forum so excuse my lack of savvy. I have a 2003 VRF 800 that has been starting cold at 1200 or so which is the point it generally that it warms up to from around 1700 (these are just what I obsevred from the tacometer). I sspoke with an apparently very busy mechanic at Huntington Beach Honda who said two words only... Wax Valve. I am wondering if anyone out there has any other comments or can tell me the difficulty of changing out this inexpensive valve that I heard was under or part of the throttle body. Thanks in advance for any help or comments

 

Yes I judge taco's on my Taco meter. What I meant was tachometer.

 

Here is the part from the service manual that speaks of replacing the wax unit.

Wax unit replacement

You have to lift the tank (2 bolts) and remove the airbox (15 screws) to get to it which is very simple. Make note of where the velocity stacks go inside the air box. There are two short ones and two long ones. To the best of my recollection, the long ones are in the back. After that, there are 2 screws hold the wax unit in place. Remove the rod attached to it and remove it. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly, making not of the proper torque value for the two screws holding the wax unit in place.

This is the listing for the unit on Ron Ayers: WAX ASSY. - Search : 16044-MCW-003


16044-MCW-003 WAX ASSY. $43.80

It isn't terribly expensive and does sound like it could be it. The way the wax unit works is that as it gets cold, the wax inside shrinks. This pulls on the attached rod, thus increasing RPM. As coolant flows through it, it heats the wax causing it to expand and pushing out the rod, thus lowering the RPM.. Sounds like yours may have a leak in the diaphram between the wax and the coolant causing it to work in reverse...

One thing that I would very very highly recommend is to synchronize your starter valves as well. The procedure is listed in the PDF I linked you to. The hard part is coming up with the 4-port manometer but you can make one yourself if you have to. I can answer any questions you have if you need help with that too.

 

By the way, here is a link to the 6th Gen VFR service manual over on the other forums:

Service Manual, 6th Gen 2002+ VTEC, with bookmarks - VFR Discussion

I can't recommend downloading this enough if you plan on doing any work on your bike other than changing the oil. It is about 200MB in size and what I used to give you the PDF above.

 

Wow forums really do work. Thank you very much greatly appriciated. I will download that ASAP. While its on my mind I have another question you may know the answer to. Is the clutch in the VFR Kevlar? I ask because I want to treat the engine with an antifriction treatment I bought for the bike called Microlon but the treatment instructions warn that it can expand a Kevlar clutch.

 

I don't specifically know if it is Kevlar or not but I do know that you most certainly CANNOT use any oil that contains anti-friction additives or you will cause your clutch to slip. If you're concerned about your engine, just use a high quality synthetic motorcycle engine oil and filter and be done with it. Amsoil, Motul, Honda, and Mobil 1 all make great oils and the OEM filter or Purolator Pure One are excellent options for filters.

 

Thanks I just did my first oil change and used Motul. I was kinda kicking around that same conclusion to skip the treatment. Maybe I'll put the kit on craigslist. Thanks again!

 

Before you replace the wax unit I would adjust it first, it may be OK.
There is a nut on the end of its shaft which actuates the starter valves when the engine is cold, you can increase the actuation by turning the nut inwards until you achieve the cold idle speed you desire.
If the idle doesnt drop back by the time the engine reaches about 45degC then I would replace the wax unit.

 

normally i would say try to adjust it but it seems to be working the opposite of what it should since it is increasing rpm as it warms up. sounds to me like there is a leak between the wax and coolant. either way, it certainly sounds like the wax unit is a fault.

fyi, many of us have had better results setting idle speed at 1300-1350 instead of the recommended 1200. at 1200, many of us have had issues with the engine stalling randomly between shifts.

which motul did you go with? i use the 300v 10w40 and get 4500-5000 miles between changes. the bike will ket you know when it needs changed as.you will start to notice the shifts arent as silky smooth as they once were.

 

Are you in Huntington Beach Ca? If you are I am closes by can take a look or lay a hand to help. Meadloaf great job by helping......Did you get another bike yet?

 

not yet. they are going to fix mine. havwnt been cut check yet but it is coming soon

 

Meatloaf,
I used the same Motul, and i changed it a bit early (than the manual sugests) as the previous owner changed it 6k and i just hit 10K and could tell a differnce.
Subalong,
I am just outside of Huntington in Garden Grove and would appriciate any help, i will probally braek it down and try to clean/adjust as soon as i get a 4-port manometer as Meatloaf suggested.

 

Let me know I am by springdale HB not far from you.

 

ound: Way to catch your mistake, I'm stealing that one!! Seems the boys have you under control here so :welcome:

 

i'll be out in huntington beach sunday thru wednesday if yall are having a wrench session and need some help empty'n beer cans. what's that road like over to lake elsinore?

 

If you drive stay away from 91, I would take 74 Otega Hwy PM me if you have some time to have a cold drink

 

74 is a great drive. I have yet to order the Wax Valve and am headed out of town for a couple weeks but i will keep everyone posted

 

Slaker...............As I said let me know if you need help.