Bike stalled at a red light & wouldnt start back up

Hey everyone, I was riding home from work yesterday as normal and noticed my RPM gauge stopped working and my clock reset on the dash, when I got close to my house (luckily) my bike stalled out at a red light in first gear and wouldn't start back up. Engine temp was about 235. So I walked her home about 2 miles and on the way trying to start her but she wouldn't turn over at all, so I let her sit until the morning and tried to start her up and she started. After a few seconds I shut it down so my Dad could look at it and went to work. He said it didn't start for him at all so he pulled out the rectifier and tested it and got no resistance which I'm told means it's okay. A motorcycle shop said it's most likely the stater so I ordered a stater so it gets her by Friday and I can ride this weekend.

My question is: Does this sound like a stater problem? And what else might be causing this?

Appreciate your help.

Thanks

 

Here's a complete r/r test for ya.


I'd start with a charging system check, and a starting system check.

 

You should not just order parts without knowing if for sure that's the issue.
It sounds like typical regulator connection failure usually melted burn.Unplug stator connection going to r/r and see if there is any burning melting.
I highly doubt your stator failed.Its probably regulator overheated and failed and drained your battery.
Check the fuse going to your battery.

There is a better way to test your regulator.[video=youtube;r3mqG7f7qu8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3mqG7f7qu8[/video]
watch it from 10.30sec
Let us know how this goes.

 

YB
You are probably busy working but when you have time I think its important you get acquitted with your bike better by looking for the problem yourself thus understanding the bike better.
Your dad's diagnoses of rectifier having no resistance does not mean it works properly.You got to do diode test.You must check all connections of r/r to be sure nothing is fried.battery Fuse as well.
if you do have fried connection like

If the connection is badly fried then you shorted the stator.Any of the 3 yellow wires touching each-other will short the stator.Its vital you check that connection.
Let us know the status.I just did my wiring and installed yamaha R1 regulator (superior) and I can help you beef up the system so you'll never have to worry again.
I hope you did not order Ricks Stator....

 

Thanks for the information, there's no burns on the wiring, and all connections are fine.I'd be interested in learning how to install that R1 regulator.

 

You want 04 or newer.Must be mosfet (new cooler design. numbers must start with FHO11AA FH is new design SH is old design which is stock and runs very hot.Lot of guys installed computer pc fans to help cooling but honestly why not just install more efficient unit which runs cool and you can actually put your hand on it.)
here is one on ebay to give you an idea
2005 2006 Yamaha R1 YZFR1 Voltage Regulator Rectifier PN FHO11AA | eBay
I bought one $80 on ebay.

You slightly cut the fins part touching the rear fairing to fit.It won't damage regulator since as you can see it has very long fins.
You want to buy plug in wiring from here.Nice heavy duty
R/R Connectors
great wiring straight to battery with a fuse holder plus 2 fuses 1extra $25 nice deal.
Part A - the Battery Connection
FH012/010 Connectors with Leads
Stator connection.I recommend solder direct stator wires and eliminate this weak point.Heat shrink wrap and you'll fine your bike will run better.
By doing the wiring this way you bypass factory set up which is not designed well.
let me know if you got more questions

 

Want to add

Before you pull the stator out which I suspect is fine check the voltage on all yellow wiring

Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


If stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad most likely.

 

What's the update?
Bike running?

 

I had the reg/rect fail on my 2000 model last week. Interesting symtoms, so if this happens to you you will know what comes next.

1. Speedo stopped working
2. Rev counter stopped working
3. Bike died in traffic when the voltage fell to low to keep the EFi working

Called RAC (AAA in USA) they gave me a battery boost & sent me off home with them following just in case, luckily it was only 15 miles & with no lights on it made it fine.

So that evening I read up everything I could find on this problem & checked the Manual for diagnostics. Whilst charging the battery, I checked the generator out which was fine with 0.5 Ohm resistance across all three yellow wires & no connection to earth.

I checked all the connectors & they were all clean & fine.

When the battery was charged I checked the reg/rect, this worked fine initially, but after a few minutes got very hot, as did the 3 yellow generator wires & the voltage dropped away to less than 13V even at full revs.

I ordered up a Mosfet based replacement, fitted that & it gives 14v immediately, rising to 14.3 at idle & reaching a maximum of 14.4v at any revs above idle. The heat sink & wires remained cool to the touch, RESULT.

I got the replacement from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/ their part number RR69. I am not related to this company in any way. Just thought I'd post it for anyone in the UK that needs one.

Pity I didn't find that secondhand Yamaha R1 solution before, but hey, it works now & like many I hope to not need another any time soon.

 

so much effort gone into this thread and nothing.No thank you or update.

 

I too have been wondering whether Yellowbord ever found out what caused the bike to break-down or is still struggling to get the bike running again?

As for your helpful input on how to fit an upgraded RR unit, it would be a real shame to see this swiftly relegated to the realms of the VFRWorld search engine. I wonder if the Forum Mods would be willing to create an extra Forum category which only the Mods can post into - but where they could ensure that all really valuable reference stuff can be posted for easy future reference. Perhaps some sort of "VFR How To's" category. I suspect there are quite a lot of items which qualify - so ideally the Mods would also create and manage a single index page so we can find links to the relevant threads.


Skimad4x4
Proud member 6th Gen Militia # 218 - European 1st Division

 

I like the STICKY idea... especially for the same requests over and over and DEFINITELY for the same failure issues...

 

I had trouble over the weekend and will use this and a couple of other related threads to sort it out.
These threads are gold, and will help us over and over, thank-you for contributing.

 

Make sure it'a a mosfet RR (with the mother of all heat sinks). I think it's '06 R1 onward. There's a thread on VFRWorld somewhere. I did mine a year ago, and it hasn't given any trouble since.

Edit: someone else got to the R1 model before I did... Looks like it must be '04... I reused the Honda plugs (weren't melted/burnt), but it would be best to use something better, if possible. I might do a straight splice and get rid of the plugs altogether...