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R/R Question

Discussion in '5th Generation 1998-2001' started by whippetbreeder, Apr 16, 2012.

  1. whippetbreeder

    whippetbreeder New Member

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    Alright fellas,I'm new to the forum and would appreciate your advice.i've just bought a 99 model VFR800 with 8k miles.I've read a little about the possible problems with the rectifier and would obviously like to avoid them.How do i tell whether my R/R is the original or a replacement? Also,if i do continue to use my bike how will i know if the R/R is on the way out? Apologies if this questions already been asked but i tried searching and couldn't find anything. Thanks.
     


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  2. Rainbow7

    Rainbow7 New Member

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  3. Pliskin

    Pliskin New Member

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    Congrats on the new purchase and welcome to the forum.

    The possible problems are almost inevitable. Rare is the person who doesn't end up having a problem with the R/R.

    You can use the search function here and type in R/R, or Stator wires, or 5th Gen R/R Replacement. There are as many threads on the R/R as there are oil and tires.

    You can Google some photos to show you the difference between stock and subsequent or aftermarket models. You can also punch in the serial number and see what that shows.

    To test you R/R: Make sure your battery is 100% charged (from a charger, not from riding). Get a voltmeter. Check volts at battery with bike off. Should read at least 12.5+V up to about 13.2V. (6 cells on the battery at 2.2V each is 13.2. That's normal).

    Start the bike and check the volts again at idle. Should be low 13.xx or so. Increase your RPM to 5000 and check again. Should be reading somewhere in the high 14.xx. 15 or so would be OK.

    Its a good idea to check through various RPMs. What you want to see is consistency. If you're at 4000RPMs and you go from 14.8v to 13.6 to 14.2 to 12.8 to 14.8.... not a good thing.
     


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  4. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    A: Find it and there will be a part # and possibly even a Honda label on it. It could be the original install but likely not. If it is a Honda model get rid of it. Get the trouble free replacment. Carry the old one under your seat. (your bike seat that is)

    B. You don't know. They just crap out.

    C. Follow the advice given. It's solid..
     


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  5. realistdreamer

    realistdreamer New Member

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    Tons of info here and at Electrical - VFR Discussion .
    Search photos for R/R, regulator, rectifier.
    Goto wiremybike.com for a look at the most common aftermarket

    With a 99, you should look into beefing up the wiring and R/R anyway. Lots of threads here and at the link posted to help with that. Congrats on the bike. I had to do some electrical re-work within a month of getting my 2000, but I'm happier and more confident about the bike now.

    Just remembered, my gallery has photos of stock and aftermarket R/Rs realistdreamer's albums - Gallery - VFR Discussion
     


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  6. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    On the R/R the most obvious is that the lights start looking brighter than normal or outta nowhere, you have a dead battery.

    - Your bike is only 8k, so you should be fine for now. But I suggest you go buy a multimeter. There's lots of choices, 10 to 50+ bucks. It wouldnt hurt to do some quick checks as below:

    Steps:
    - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or simular to load test. -- Good? Bad?
    - With good battery fire it up.
    These are R/R quick checks--- do first..
    --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? Whats the nunbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs.
    - Check stator
    - 1. pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. Whats the numbers? Should be less than 1.0 ohms.
    - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity.
    - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 20ish and climb 50ish and more.
    4. Repeat hot.

    If you get to need to dig deeper the master figure it out chart is:

    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

    Also, it wouldnt hurt to do a quick inspection of the connectors, they have tendency to get crispy over time.

    -Enjoy your 5th gen, I keep getting blown away on how many low mile examples pop up.
     


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  7. whippetbreeder

    whippetbreeder New Member

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    Thanks for the info guys.This is exactly the same problem i had on my previous bike(Aprilia RST1000 Futura) Just about everyone recomended changing the rectifier,which i did eventually ,for an upgraded Electrex unit as i didn't want to be left stranded someday. I have a multimeter so will carry out the check on the battery tomorrow. If the voltage readings are ok,to be honest i'll probably leave it until something goes pop. Even after i'd replaced the rectifier on the Aprilia i'd then read on the forum about some other potential disaster. I just wanted to enjoy riding my bike but i never felt 100% confident with it knowing that at any moment something else was likely to go wrong. Owners forums are a great source of information but i also believe that sometimes ignorance is bliss,do you know what i mean? Thanks again for your help,much appreciated.
     


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  8. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    Do all that and when you leave for a putt aside from doing all the safety stuff, be sure and bring your money, credit card, tow service information and the wifes number to call her why you are not home on time so she can look up the nearest Honda shoppe where you might find a new OEM R/R for a shitload of money..

    Nice to have a great battery but the bloody R/Rs give out with no warning it's kind of a stop and no go effect..
     


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  9. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    dont do anything to the bike. get a compufire r/r and forget about it.
     


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  10. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    i ride all day in 100 degree traffic and it doesnt even get warm. it also doesnt put nearly as much strain on your stator or rest of your electrical system.
     


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  11. whippetbreeder

    whippetbreeder New Member

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    Just put a multimeter on the battery for the readings as advised.Bike hasn't been touched for a week.It has no alarm or anything apart from the digital clock to draw from the battery and it hasn't been connected to the trickle charger. Reading before ignition:12.64 At idle:14.16 and at 5000rpm 13.80.

    Seeing these results,what do you think? Replace R/R? I can pick one up in the UK brand new for £100(about $150). I spoke to the previous owner of the bike and he hadn't touched the R/R so i've got to assume that it is the original one. I had a quick look down the side panel onto the R/R when i had the seat off and it's bolted directly to the frame whereas aftermarket ones seem to be fitted to a steel plate & then onto the frame. When i had my Blackbird the frame used to get really hot with the heat from the R/R and i was told by people in the know on that forum that this was normal and that if it wasn't getting hot it meant that the R/R wasn't working correctly.Just trying to get my head around what is meant to happen and what isn't? Any advice is appreciated.Thanks.
     


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  12. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Some of the 5th gen R/Rs were goofy in that the voltage output dropped with revs. 13.80 is still respectable, you are in no immediate failure. But with these bikes its only a matter of time that the R/R is gonna give out. Mine died at 10,500 miles. Fortunately you have time to plan what you want to do. There are different fixes, depending if you are handy with electrics or not.

    Check thread

    http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/37816-current-r-r-thoughts.html

    I went with a total aftermarket solution, and like it very much. The bike even runs cooler. But it ended up a little spendy to put it together.
     


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  13. FoothillRyder

    FoothillRyder New Member

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    Hmmm. Battery voltage is on the low end of normal, idle is on the high end, 5K is on the low end. Take apart all the connections, clean and secure them, and (after charging the battery fully, as mentioned above) remeasure. You might be okay for now, or you might need a new battery.
     


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  14. mello dude

    mello dude Administrator

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    Another tip - if you like to tinker, adding a voltmeter is a good idea. I have mine wired to direct to the battery with a fuse and switch in line on the positve side. I really like it in that I can check the battery before I fire it up.

    [​IMG]
     


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  15. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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    Great advice up to a point. Darned hard to tell if "the lights get brighter" at tea time.

    Yep, another OEM R/R can be had almost anywhere for a hundred bucks or so. Way too much experience here from dozens of VFR owners who have had problems going back twenty years. To do that..

    My first R/R go round was in Canada. Great.. I leave Seattle and ride about 350 miles to an event. The event is a poker run of 300 miles. I am headed back to Seattle and about a quarter mile from the US/Canadian border when the bike just dies.. This is on a Sunday.

    Tow charges to a nearby motel, a night in the motel, calling the local Honda guy who is usually not open on Monday, meals, missing a day of work, the cost of the part ect. Installed an OEM R/R to solve the problem. That one lasted about six months.

    All that testing with a meter is fine but when those R/Rs decide to check out they do.

    Don't expect Honda to shed tears in thier sushi over this. As far as they are concerned it doesn't happen and your dealer will lie about it whilst in a hair shirt , worn for effect.
     


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  16. whippetbreeder

    whippetbreeder New Member

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    Thanks again for all of the info fellas,really appreciated.I'll take it all on board and probably end up buying a new R/R,at least as a spare so i'm ready for the original one dying! A volt meter on the bike would be useful,not too good with electrics though,but might look into fitting one at some point,that one you have looks spot on Mello!
    Regarding the battery,i suppose with only 8k miles,it's possible that it could be the original battery even though the bikes 12 years old but when pressing the starter the bike turns over really fast,so i doubt it. Anyway you've given me some food for thought and jobs to be getting on with.I'll keep you posted on how i get on.Cheers.
     


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