vf500f rebuild

Hey guys, started my winter rebuild/tune up of my 1984 vf500f, already did plugs, coolant, oil, carb sync and i currently have bought chain, sprockets, all wheel bearings, fork seals, dust boots, etc...

I plan on rebuilding my forks in a few weeks should there be anything I should watch out for? I plan on replacing the bushings, oil and dust covers and replacing the oil with 10w oil.

I already pressed in my front wheel bearings, pretty straight forward. put a bit of wheel grease between the bearing dust shield and front axle. Im going to have to have the tires put on by a professional since I can't do/don't know how to do it. Should be nice with some new demon sports

I was wondering how can you tell if the bearings in the steering are bad? I can't force any play by hand but it does turn to the left easier then the right and im pretty sure the wiring/cables are not getting in the way... maybe because it locks to the left so its been turned that way more? I'm not sure.

Oh I nearly forgot, I have a daugherty motorsports rear custom valved cbr600 f4i shock conversion coming too. I can't wait for spring now!!! :biggrin:

Heres a few pictures her with 21k on the clock last summer:




since then Ive put on a fender delete and shorter rear signal stems.
:tongue:

 

I ended up buying some all balls tapped steering head bearings after some advice from my honda shop. Ill prob need a spanner wrench to tighten it properly, I researched that there needs to be ~3lb*ft resistance on the handlebars(that correct?). I guess the fork seal replacement is pretty straight forward, its my first time doing this that why I asked if there was anything i should look out for.

I may need new front brake pads since the left fork was leaking all over the place, would a oil soaked pad be discolored??


Ill snap a few pictures when Im home next weekend working on it.

 

is it just me, or do those mufflers look like they're on the wrong sides?

 

The main indication of steering head bearings have gone bad is the difficulty of maintaining very low speed straight course.
Be sure the bearings are fully in place before testing handlebar resistance.

 

A rule of thumb (much like giving something the hairy eye-ball test) regarding steering heads is if the bike has a centre stand get it up on it and push down on the rear of the bike. Get the front wheel off the ground, once this is done, gently apply some pressure to one of the bar ends, it should flop to that side fairly easily. If not, you have your lock-nut too tight, back it off and try it again. Its trial and error really, a cunts hair of a turn with your socket on the lock nut does alot! dont buy into that torque wrench bs either. I did have a 12 point big arse socket that was an invaluable help in tightening the nut on my gen 3 bikie.

 

It's easy to damage the seals during installation if you're not doing it properly. Wash the forks out 2 or 3 times with the solvent of your choice, and let them drain upsidedown in a bucket.

 

thanks for the advice guys!

I'm going to attempt the forks this weekend. What type of solvent should be used to clean out the forks? A degreaser like brake cleaning fluid?

 

got some work done this weekend, got the forks sealed up but i broke the c-clips in them so im on hold til I get new ones this week. Still waiting on the steering head bearings and the DMR shock. I was able to remove the rear wheel and press in the bearings and seals and get them ready for my honda shop t install and balance my new tires. Also installed my new chain and sprockets. Can't wait for spring now!

pictures:

 

Your local Honda dealer will mount and balance tires you didn't buy from them? Wow. Around here, shops won't touch tires that they didn't sell that's why I go to my local indy. Besides a great mount and balance job, he's the only guy that can mount them without a scratch.

Keep up the work.

 

Yea, I know a guy there and he does all my work I can't handle. I considered buying my own tire mounting equipment and balancing tools but i honestly don't do this enough where it would become worth it. I just got my tappered steering head bearings in the mail so im just waiting for the c-clips for the forks and I should be all set. Hopefully this weekend I'll get it buttoned up.

 

Everything is back together and work well. The daugherty motorsports shock fit fine but it raised the rear up quite a bit. Enough in fact that the center stand is rendered useless. When the center stand is down the legs are ~1" off the ground and when its up it hits the chain... So the Center stand had to go.

I drove it a bit with the new set up and its very smooth now, low speed seems a bit unstable however. After doing a bit of research it seems that by raising up the rear I've effectively lowered the trail and rake settings from stock.

But with a 27 degree stock rake and 104mm trail how much would the these numbers change with raising the rear up an inch or so. I should find picture so I can compare side by side better.

 

If I could ask, what shock did you use as a core for the conversion?

If interested, more intel on rake and trail can be found in my wheel conversion thread (link below).

 

For reference:

 

Honda dealer (and other dealers) will mount/balance anything you bring in for $15/wheel here. I don't know anyone who buys tires from a dealer.

 

f4 shock was used. I checked out your thread on the f2 swap, and with your calc on stock diameter tires you still calced 27 rake but 100mm of trail. Can you still use your center stand? how far off the ground was it if not? Thanks.

 

Still have the centerstand on. The tire just kisses the floor. I use a sheet of 1/4" plywood under the centerstand to gain a bit more clearance when doing maintenance. On a side note, I am running CBR600F rims not F2s.

Also, calcs came in at 104mm trail not 100mm.

 

finally got some pictures of the final product, i think I may flush the brake fluid before I start driving it for the season but its ready to go

 

If I could suggest, inspect the valve train and check the valve lash. Also, if you have not yet done this, change the oil filter (use OEM) and the motor oil (use a good brand).

 

Thanks,

I adjusted the valve lash and synced the carbs last september. I changed the oil right before I put it away with moble1 and a fram filter. I'll change it before I bring it out of storage for good. Plus My honda service manual finally came in the mail from ebay, now I don't need to rely on the Clymer one

How many miles should the valve lash be checked?

 

After every ride :smile: