Front Wheel question?

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by converse, Oct 15, 2011.

  1. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    You should do both calipers when you do the service. As I said before there is kind of a trick to getting both sides to push oot the pistons, you work each side with a c-clamp and let the hydraulics push them out far enough where you can grap the inside of them and pull them free from the caliper :smile:

    I have used brake fluid for lube in the past, when I did mine there was a tube of Brembo assembly lube laying around and I used that, I did re-use my old seals after I used my finger nail to scrape off the shit. Looked at em under a magnifier and they looked perfect. No leaks or any issues and that was 3 years ago maybe>? You could buy this shit AGS Company - Sil-Glyde® Brake Lubricant never had any experience with it though. Brake fluid works fine and the book recommends it me believes :smile: Word of Caution here. Be careful when you use a pick to scrape crap out of your calipers as the material is aluminium and can be gouged. I anodized the inside of mine before I installed the O-rings with some aviation crap.

    Far as using dah Hammer, What can I say, I got some nice shot filled hammers that I like weilding around. Kinda makes me feel like the knuckle dragger that I am not :wink:

    Kidding aside, using a soft bop hammer on the calipers makes the brake pads contact the rotor, that in turn will force the pads to push against the pistons and give you some clearance. Clearance = Being able to push the bike around the shop. Its not a cure, just a way to move an immovable POS.
     


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  2. converse

    converse New Member

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    Wow, thats a lot of info. Thanks rider! Is it possible to take the calipers apart and reuse the parts? I know its wise to get new, but can you reuse parts in the meantime, you know, so you can still ride, and have brakes, while waiting for the parts to come in?

    I think I may need to check my right caliper still, but I flushed the system with new fluid, and in the process, found out that the left caliper had a mildly blocked line, that, when flushing the line, became quite blocked. Using quite a bit of pressure on the brake lever, it passed. Now I have both brakes again. I still have the right rotor being warmer than the left, but when I was hard on them in my deceleration into my driveway, they both got quite warm, which was not the case before. I was talking to my dad about it, and he thinks that maybe the left rotor is a bit warped, and so it pushes the pads apart on the left one when I am not on the brakes, and thats why its cooler. Any thoughts on this idea?
     


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  3. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    a warped rotor gives you a pulsing at the lever. If there are ridges in it, it could be wasted too. You can re-use everything except the seals. Like I said, I re-used mine with no incidents as well as a bunch of other brake re-builds where we couldnt wait for parts. Parts are: four seals, four dust seals, 7 crush washers, DOT 4 brake fluid...Thats pretty much it.

    Good luck, was thinking about a warped rotor, could be. I have after market rotors on my bike, not because the old ones were warped though.
     


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  4. converse

    converse New Member

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    Do you have a part number for the crush washers?

    I have not noticed pulsing, but I will have to ride tomorrow, and really pay attention to it to be certain. I will get back to you on that. I am just happy to have full braking power again.
     


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  5. stoshmonster

    stoshmonster New Member

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    Part number 27 in the pic. Honda part number 90545-300-000.

    [​IMG]


    Thanks Rider,just tryin' to lend a hand.
     


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