86 VF500 Need to remove cylinders to split cases?

The title says it all, do you have to remove the cylinder heads and valve train on an 86 VF500 to split the cases? If so, why?

 

It can be done but it is very tricky and requires several set's of hands. I recommend going by the book if you not very familiar with rummaging around inside gen 1.

 

thanks TOE

 

I've done it... by myself... at 1:00 in the morning. Had to get it done for a race weekend. I was replacing the clutch rod seal. Before I learned about some alternative methods for getting at that seal.

 

Shrink tubing over the clutch rod?

 

Cutting a slot out of the lip, turning it sideways, and removing. Re-install new seal and pull back into position.
Or... grind lip completely, extract old seal, re-install with hondabond or stronger.

 

Capt, out of curiosity did you find that this has held up okay? I have read of both methods you mention but I have also read some radio chatter that this is a temporary fix and the only way to really solve a leaking seal is to split the cases and install a new seal. Would be great to get your thoughts on this.

 

Just read about them, haven't tried yet. I'm going to practice the slot and turn method on a toast bottom end.

I don't see how installing a new seal can be considered a temp fix... it's a new seal regardless of how it got there (providing it doesn't get damaged turning and pulling it into place. I'm also seriously considering removing the whole lip. There are Honda V4s that don't have that lip. Is there really that much oil pressure on our bikes that with some Hondabond they would spit out a press fit seal? Seems to me our bikes have the opposite problem. Maybe I'm totally wrong though. I just think the Magna owner's that tried it would report failure... and I haven't read that... yet.

But again, if you can get a seal in using the slot method... It's a new seal and now it's replaceable. And I definitely have read success with that, just have to be careful with your initial grinding and seal maneuvering.

 

well, as long as the tranny is off of mine it's getting a new seal anyhow. I'll let you know how the cylinder removal bypass works out.

 

Another seal fix. Clutch_Push-rod_Seal..alternative2 - SabMagFAQ

 

Thanks for the post captb. I've seen this method too. I wonder which is the 'best' method for replacing the seal, w/out having to split the cases. Would be great to have this method on record here for owners whose engines are suffering this malady.

 

Look forward to reading about your adventure. Please keep us posted. If I could put in a request, lots of photos please!

 

That's how I took care of mine.

As for splitting the case, yes, you can do it without removing the heads. I have done it.

 

Well, I'm not doing the work myself, I'll try to have some pics done as the project progresses.

 

I have to admit I'm a bit confused here. Is the consensus that you do not have to remove the heads to split the cases?

I had thought from ron.cieri.313's adventure ( http://vfrworld.com/forums/mechanics-garage/34043-countershaft-seal-replacement-vf500f-2.html#post313797 ) that you do need to remove the heads.

Any insight would be most appreciated.

 

I have done it before, so NO the heads don't have to come off. The cams have to come out to get the crankshaft out, though.

What's going on that the case needs split for, anyway?

 

5x5

r-c-313's engine's main bearing was kaput.

 

Ok, bike is back together. Sorry for the lack of pics, but I wasn't doing the work. My bro in law did not remove the heads to get the bottom end off. He did say that he needed about 11 fingers to get everything back lined up when putting it together but he managed to do it. Everything looked fine on the inside with the exception of the countershaft bearing which is completely toast. You can grab the outer ring of the bearing and moved it ~1/8" to either side. There was also a bolt that someone had stripped the hole out for at some point and never put back in. There's one in there now.

The guy I bought it from lied to me (imagine that). He had told me that the cases had never been apart. There was sealer around all seams instead of just the places that it should be.

If you look at my other threads you will see the monstrosity of an exhaust that was on the bike. It was a huge kawi can that someone had grafted onto one side and then sealed off the other side of the collector. Stock pipes went back on today.

It's idling rough right now but I think that's because we fouled out a plug when trying to start it the first time, possibly also because the bike can breathe again with the stock pipes back on it. I forgot to check the plug wires and one was not clicked onto the plug at all. New plugs will go on tomorrow and then I'll see how it runs at idle. Once you get up above 2000 rpm or so it runs fine.

This vf500 will live on for a while.

 

Thanks for the update.

Glad to hear that you were able to work this out and that you did not have to remove the heads to split the cases.

Interesting to note that this is the same issue as r-c-313's engine.

If I could ask, does your brother in law have an idea as to why the countershaft bearing failed?

 

The only thing we can figure is that the previous owner may have over tightened the chain.