How do I wire a voltmeter??

I just recently installed the Signal Dynamics VoltMeter to my 2005 VFR - Signal Dynamics Heads-up Voltage Monitor Early Warning System - Flush Mount


Modified LED Settings

Above 15.25 Blinking Green
Above 12.9 Steady Green
Above 12.6 Yellow
Above 12.1 Red
Below 12.0 Blinks Red

Works well and I am planning on using it on my 03 R1 and my 2k 5th Gen VFR .

 

I got a Signal Dynamics VoltMeter too, very pleased with it's performance and every bike I get in the future will have one. In fact, if I'd listened to it last year I may have spared myself The RR Nightmare. A nice detail is it can be installed to look stock...

 

I am very happy with the Signal Dynamics Voltmeter, but I am still going to do the VFRness upgrade on my 2005 VFR, and will keep a spare RR under my seat. I am doing maint. on my 2k VFR with 40k mi, and plan on doing the VFRness upgrade with the Signal Dynamics Voltmeter also - gonna change the R/R and clean the connector block along with the other work I gotta do. Don't mean to sound paranoid, but, a couple of years ago I got caught crossing the 59th St bridge in NYC on my way to work in rush hour traffic during the Winter when my VFR died on me because of a bad R/R.

 

To those who have installed the Signal Dynamics LED on their VFR's:

What does the LED show with the bike off and ignition on, at idle, and when does it turn yellow, and green?

 

On my VFR when the bike is turned on and not running the LED is solid green then goes to red sometimes flasing red, and when I start up the bike it goes to a Solid Green in approx 10 - 20 sec or less. At idle the LED is solid green. When I am riding sometimes when I stop at the light the LED goes to flashing red, but quickly returns to a solid green in a few seconds. I have a 2005 VFR with 9k mi I bought used with the original battery and R/R. I have never seen the LED go to yellow, but have seen it go to a soild red and pretty much instantly go to flashing red and turn green.

 

Wow I am missing the fun The standard voltage of a wet cell lead acid 12 v battery is supposed to be 13.2 volts. As they get older the voltage starts to drop. My house is off the grid and I use pv and lead acid batteries. I also use a "gasp" gasoline generator as backup. My battery pack is getting old and runs 12.4 volts when I haven't been using anything. It is about to the point of needing a new one.

As far as motorcycles go as long as you can get the bike started each time your battery is fine for now. When the engine is running at a moderate rpm you should see about 14.2-14.8 volts. If it is less than 14 you have a problem with the charging system, probably the rectifier/regulator although it could be the alternator. If you are above 15 you have a regulator that is bad.

As far as where you hook up your voltmeter it doesn't make much difference. The meters impedance is probably a meg ohm. Therefore if you are on a little artery of the wiring system it still has plenty of conductance (little resistance) and won't affect the reading a whiff. You do want to put it before the load however.

DC electricity is really pretty simple. What I know about electronics was first taught to me using taxpayer dollars in 1970-1971 outside of Boston at Ft Devens. It is shit that you don't forget. I still use the basics.

 

I should add that I don't have a voltmeter on my bike. I put on a nice Shindigen FET controlled 50 amp regulator this spring and it works fine, my alternator puts out 30 amps so I have plenty of reserve. Doesn't get nearly as hot a the standard unit. It read 14.4-14.5 volts with a handheld voltmeter when running at 5000 rpm. and 12.6 volts with the switch off.

 

2 bluudy simple wires, why has this wierd thread gone on so long ?? If you don't know how to wire it, you don't know how to change a light bulb.

plus and minus (ground), how much easier do you need it ??

 

My SD Voltmeter was indicating trouble about 2 weeks before the Stator/RR burnout, I just dismissed it as a problem with the Voltmeter and did nothing until it was until too late (bike inop with smoke coming from under the gas tank). So, after The Nightmare of '10, a VFRNess went into my VFR too. I also cleaned and Dielectric greased every bloody connection I could get at without pulling the engine out of the frame. Just to be safe, the problem areas (Stator/RR and battery harnesses) will be checked every time the bike's serviced. It's been a year, only 3000 miles and the 40k service, but so far everything's good.

 

Because Slowbird hijacked the thread and was getting questionable readings. It's a VFR, nothing goes that easy, when it comes to electrics on this beast. :wink:

:crazy:

 

My apologies. I had no intentions on hijacking the thread.

 

None required. It was related. It just extended what should have been a short simple thread to a "tiger tiger". There was no slam intended.

If Leeroth is still watching, hopefully he got his problem sorted.

:crazy: