Changed the oil in the bike last night for the 5th time since I have owned it. Put the Drain Plug back in and torqued to 22ft/lbs and it kept spinning with no resistance. Talked to a guy I know that owns a shop he said he May be able to fix it, but if not the oil pan needs to be replaced. I am not a happy camper to say the least. Anybody know how much time it takes to change a pan on a 6th gen?
I could always be worse......but not much. That is a bit of a pain.....aboot a 6-7 beer job. Look on the bright side, you did not crash or blow up an engine. :biggrin:
Very true but it definately hampers my ability to ride. I am taking it to the shop monday so hopefully I will have it back soon. This is why I need a second bike! BTW changing the oil is a 4 beer job. I guess it all depends on how fast you drink, plus my beer fridge is in the garage right next to the bike.
.....u musta got that torque wrench at Harbor Freight ?? Proper torque setting would be slightly different with used or new alloy crush washer. Your hand and arm should actually know as much or more than a torque wrench with the right amount of experience. Tightening until it feels right is sometimes better than meeting a # from the manual......as you've discovered. You probably thought "tight enough" slightly before your wrench clicked and needed the good sense to stop there. Ask Randy.
jb weld the old one and drill a new one. Or maybe you could pickup a new pan from a wreck? it's just the timing thing. you could JB weld the old one and ride til you get the new pan, then fix it. A little dirty oil aint gonna hurt a VFR.
Get yourself a heli-coil or even better a time-cert. I've done several acura pans at work cause people make the plugs too tight.
True true, You know I been accused of having a calibrated elbow. For drain plugs and other various smaller ancillary bolts I rarely use a torque wrench (got three Snap-Ons) When I do use them it is for torqing a head or using a sequence with a torque to yield fastener (bmw) and some other bikes. Just learn to trust your feel young Jedi :smile: (i aint claiming to be Yoda either!) That crush washer has a distinct feeling as it crushes, kinda feels like a slip, at that point your tight and right. Anything more and your ova torqued. Gota trust your tools, you do get what you pay for sometimes. Dont sweat the oil pan thing, worse case scenerio of course. We all have fucked things up, part of life...Cheers
f'n a right... I've drilled and tapped a 1/4-24 (NOT 1/4-20) bolt right down the center of the existing drain plug before. Then JB welded the plug in place, ran a mig bead around it (yes you can mig weld alum these days), and I think my buddy is still rocking it. Sure its a 2 beer job just draining the oil now (slow flow coming out a 1/4 inch hole) but as solid as can be.
When you torque a bolt with a torque wrench and the bolt has oil on it the torque will be 10% tighter. Just re tap the drain plug hole to the next closest size and put in a new bolt with aluminum washer. SAE OR metric Or use the tine sert. The oil change places that are operated by young kids know all about stripping oil drain plugs. Ask them how to fix it. If you don't believe me, look at all the lawsuits where they ruined brand new car engines.
A properly used quality torque wrench is not the issue. Something else happened along the way. A properly set, and used, quality torque wrench should never ever ever strip an undamaged bolt. Far more likely with a feel only approach.
Never use a torque wrench on an oil bolt. ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
Based on my relatively limited experience of wrenching on stuff for over 45 years, 22 FT pounds for a steel in aluminum drain plug is WAY too high. I do mine by feel, haven't stripped one yet. (Your experience may vary).
