dreaded oil question

Hi, I recently purchased an 86 RWB 700 and usually use Mobil 1 synthetic in that bike. Is it recommended for a 86 vintage bike?
Thank you
Gary

 

Gwan:

It should do just fine in your bike. My humble suggestions would be:

1. Use Honda's recommended viscosity. If they say 10W-40, use it.
2. If you haven't used synthetic in this bike before, you may want to change the oil and filter at a relatively short interval (1,000 miles) the first time. Mobil 1 is (or at least used to be) a PAO base stock; PAO has excellent detergent properties which may free up some sludge in the engine. An early change should take care of that.
3. If you're a worry wort (or borderline OCD) about it. Do an analysis of what comes out at the next oil change. I use Blackstone Labs (Blackstone Labs). I guess we know what that makes me.
4. Most importantly, congratulations and good luck with your new purchase and please post some pictures!

 

Thanks mestoo, What I meant to write is I use Mobil 1 in my 02 ST1100 and my concern is I should have started my 86 VFR on semi-synthetic then fully synthetic. The bike only has 23,xxx miles on it. I will post some pics when I get some. Sorry for the oil thread you all. I have done tons of research on oil and filters and am comfortable with what I use. BTW, I have found Purolator filters on sale work for me. But that is another dreaded thread I am sure......

 

As long as its not energy conserving with friction modifiers... that may cause clutch issues. I've run Mobil 1 syn and Shell Rotella T6 in my bikes and Turbo cars with no issues for many years, the T6 is MC rated now.

 

I used the Mobil 1 without friction modifiers. I am now starting to use the new and *improved* Mobil 1 that is supposed to be made for motorcycles. I am sure it is made more for marketing but I have had good results with Mobil 1 in all my vehicles. Thanks for the input, now I will just ride and and take some pics to show it.
Thanks
Gary

 

It's been my experience in life that you get what you pay for, and that's especially true with motor vehicles of all kinds. Ferrari's don't sell for $4k just like you'll never see a Renault with a $400k price tag. Funny that they both use the same kind of oil though, isn't it?

To each their own. If it runs good with what you're putting into it, then there's nothing wrong with the oil your using.

I personally have started using Royal Purple in my '86 VFR750 after a full years use of T6. It's not that I think it does a better job, it's just that my bike is my baby and I like to spoil the things that I care about.

As for the switch from regular to synthetic, there shouldn't be any noticeable change. If your not changing the grade of the oil you'll never notice a leak because of switching to synthetic and it won't hurt anything going back and forth. Switch from a heavy oil to a lighter grade and you may notice some gaskets dripping with the thinner mix IF the gaskets were already worn out and rotting.

 

I'm always weary about putting a Full Synthetic Oil in an old Motor that has never seen a drop of it before in it's life.

My old VF500 saw Full Synthetic once and immediatly started sweating oil from around the oil pan.

 

In many of the musclecar forums I have read, modern oils have been directly related to non-roller cam lobe failure. This is a result of the newer oils containing considerably less Zinc than in "the old days".

Although not necessary in modern, roller-cam engines, Zinc is needed in non-roller camshaft applications to preserve the face of the cam lobes. I would probably go with Royal Purple, Joe Gibbs Racing Oil, or one of the many oils that have appeared on the market which contain sufficient levels of Zinc to keep the old cams in good shape.

I run Mobil1 full synthetic exclusively in my fleet of trucks with excellent results, but I would never dream of putting it in my hydraulic cam, 498 stroker '69 Barracuda. Non-roller cams need Zinc.

I would guess that an old sportbike would need the Zinc to protect the cams, and I can't help but wonder if the newer oil mixes may be playing a part in some of the camshaft failures in 1st-gen engines.

 

I initially posted this as I was concerned that a*vintage* VFR may leak/sweat oil from seals and I agree with Lazy In AZ that if seals are border line that synthetic may leak. I put in motorcycle specfic Mobil 1 this time as they changed the formula to leave out some of the chemicals needed in a motorcycle (zinc etc) You bring up a good point MoparBrion, with older engines in general, this new generation of oils which seems to contain less chemicals needed in older engines. I think modern oils contain more cleansing agents than oil, which may harm older engines in cars, bikes or even garden tractors! Maybe we will have to use motorcycle specific oil in older engines for sufficient zinc? Interesting......

 

I use MFA tractor oil 15w-40 in all my vehicles, including my 86 vfr. It is very light colored and stays clean in my gas engines. It's cost effective.

 

Sure, as long as it is the recommended weight and viscosity and it is motorcycle rated (JASO MA).

 

Oil isn't supposed to stay clean. It's supposed to carry the dirt in it.

If the oil always stays clean it's probably not doing it's job.

 

I think you are 180 degrees out of phase. Oil that discolors quickly is breaking down from heat and mechanical concerns particularly with our shared oil engine/transmission engines.