Carbs Leak like crazy from EVERYWHERE

So I got a 83 interceptor 750. I just cleaned the carbs out. I hooked it back up, but I think there was fule lines missing cause it only went to the frist linkage. so I made some t's and hooked up the other 2. Anywho I think the fuel pump just shooting to much fuel in there or something and just causing fuel to shoot out everywhere. all the bowl gaskets and the fuel linkages too. I dont know whats going on any ideas?

 

You better get some help.

Too much to explain.
It is not like a car. The fuel pump would only have 2-4 lbs pressure.


Floats could be stuck, if the cleaning was not done correctly, or if it had been sitting.
You could have hooked up fuel lines to vent lines, Anything is posssible.

BTW...FUEL not fule lines

 

thanks for pointing out the one time I misspelled fuel. on a non sarcastic note. Thanks for the tip. what causes the float to become stuck? I checked the needles they were in good condition.

 

It is not the floats that cause problems unless you mess with them.
It is the FLOAT NEEDLES. The float needles under the float has a rubber tip.
The rubber tips get glued into the cone shaped hole and can get stuck. Also you need to take a magnifying glass and look at the rubber tip from different angles because if it is not a perfect cone shape or the rubber has turned hard then it will not seal and leak gas into the float bowl. The the float bowl will over fill and the engine will not run right and it can start a fire in the garage or while driving down the road.

Bottom line.....Just put in new float needles !!!! when you take the carbs off.
Just make sure the idle jet is clear and the float needle is brand new. THAT IS ALL YOU HAVE TO DO. Don't buy the needle and seat. JUST THE NEEDLE.


It is NOT like a car carb, where you have to take all of it apart and put in lots of gaskets ,o rings etc.,. Forget that.

ALSO.. DO NOT take the o ring out of the groove in the float bowl!!! Leave it alone unless it leaks. They almost NEVER EVER Mess up.
I worked at dealerships and we never touched them -unless they showed signs of leaking. Just smear a little petroleum jelly on the "O" ring.

 

Which needles? Float needles or needles on the vacuum slides?
To check FLOAT needles and the rubber tips you would need a magnifying glass and even then if you tried to use old ones they can leak.

It is a WASTE OF TIME to use the old float needles. It is 90% of the carb rebuild believe it or not!

The rubber tips get old and hard.

BTW as far as spelling... I only know what I read.
I cannot tell you how many times I have seen people spell probably ... prolly.
The whole world is reading this.
Check your spelling. Thats my motto.

 

ight thanks man. The guy who showed me how to rebuild carbs, said they only need replacing if they get burred. I will try that, im taking the carbs off again as we speak.

 

Yes... Just replace the float needles.
Also MAKE SURE when you remove the idle jets that you
can see daylight through them
when you hold them up to the sky.

"The guy who showed me how to rebuild carbs, said they ( THEY WHAT?) only need replacing if they get burred. " Exact quote.

 

Are you sure the fuel is not coming out from where the fuel tube connectors are between carbs are? The T's you made? You do have o-rings on them correct? If so are they the right size and do you have grooves in the T's for the o-rings to set? New 0-rings?

Stuck float/needles will make the carbs leak from the bottoms thru the over flow tubes. Possibly out of the vents also if they are not sealed properly.

 

I replaced the gaskets that seemed to fix some of the problem. I am still leaking fuel out of this part.
SDC12507 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
right where the fuel line goes into the carb. when I was cleaning the carb I did take the air pan thing off. and these carbs were all loose. I didnt see any o rings come out of them tho. I cant see on the parts fiche weather or not there is one??

 

I actually ditched the T idea, I left the two top's open and the fuel is coming directly to the bottom one that appears to link them all.

 

Two of the plastic "T's" are vents and two are fuel going into the float bowl.
They cannot all be linked.
If you took apart the carbs and did not take them apart in the right order as shown in the workshop manual, the plastic T joins can easily break.
There is no reason to COMPLETELY take them all apart.
If the idle jet is clear and the float needle is new they will work.

Is it leaking where I have the arrow labeled leak?
In this photo there are no screws in the float bowl.
This plastic "T" shown- is fuel line INTO the float bowl.

 

I prefer to see the carbs right side up though.
Makes it so much more understandable.

 

sorry about the upside down thing. the bowls were unscrewed. The cross tube is where its leaking. the other line points to air cleaner base. I just have it loose for easy install/remove purpose's. I am thinking now, I must have over cleaned the carb and burned the o ring that goes in the cross tube, I cant find it on the fiche tho.
The reason I dont know how the fuel line hooks up is they werent hooked up when I bought the bike. Strange tho cause the bike only has 4k miles on. Its dang near brand new. from what I can understand, ill try and get another picture. There is only 3 t's 1 goes to all 4 and then for each side holding 2 together there is 1. I hope that makes sense. Thanks again i really appreciate your help.

 

Many times you can get a good deal on a motorcycle or car because of other peoples ignorance.
Them and all their friends could not fix it. Usually when you work at a motorcycle shop this is what you get.
The bad thing is when they just throw the motorcycle in the back yard to rot and not even spray it with WD40 or cover it up.
Then no one can fix it.


First determine which lines are float bowl vents and which are fuel lines.
Just remove the float bowls and hook them to a gas supply.
Turn on the gas and the gas should run out of the float bowl area of each carb.
The lines that have nothing coming out are the vent lines.

In general the float bowl vents come out near the very TOP of the float bowl and the fuel goes in near the float bowl carb divide. The fuel line goes in near the float needle location. Check that out.

Get that figured out.
You are on the right track.
Make sure the plastic "T's" have the o ring on them.
Put a little petroleum jelly on the o ring. The plastic "T's" are fragile and hard to get. DO NOT BREAK THEM!!.

BTW...Those HONDA plastic "T's" are the worst idea I have ever seen.
They should have been metal. I do not like them at all. Heat , plastic and fuel are a bad combination.

Like I have said before, Honda needs to get motorcycle people in that design dept.

 

allright thanks man really appreciate it. It was a killer deal 750$ for it. I will get all that on. and let everyone know how it went.

 

if you put your carbs upside down with gas in them you can dry out the rubber things inside i dont care how i spell as long as you can understand what the f im sayin lol this isnt the 30s but old ppl sure know how to fix crap lol ....im haveing a prb with my carbs as well only the leak comes from the intake boots i have a main line from the gas tank into the main on the carb and a vac line from the head to the petcock not sure whats going on

 

i got my bike going turns out i hooked up the gas line to the vent on the carbs oops yea so i hooked the lines up and it fired right up if you blow through your gas tube on your carbs when there up side down you shouldnt be able to blow through them cause the floats will prevent air from geting in this is how i found out they were good and which lines to hook up much thanks to coopers in franklin nh auto salvage yard ....thanks bob

 

I thought so!

Go back to post #14.