Storage question..... Full tank of gas? Empty? Drain carbs?

So I'm getting ready to leave again for another six months. The 3 weeks home has been nice, good weather to ride but now it's time to leave again:frown:

So, I have my VFKR stripped so when I get back home in Nov/Dec I can get the body work right into the paint shop plus it'll minimize anything bumping into the body work will the bike is on stands (3 kids, something is bound to bump it).

So I have the tank nearly empty but I can't get the last cup or two of petro out. I can hear it sloshing around but no matter the amount of turning, shaking or whatever I can't get it out. Any tricks to this? Should I just refill it up and let it sit full until I get back home?

also, the carbs, should I keep them full with gas/seafoam mixed or drain them also? I have fresh oil in the bike and the cover will be on it with the battery tender hooked up. Anything else I should do?

This is my 9th bike but it'll be the first bike I keep while I'm deployed for any period of time. Usually I just sell before I leave but the VFKR is a keeper.

Thanks.

 

You should be able to snake some line in there with a hand pump to get that extra bit out and then throw some two cycle oil in there and slosh around to protect the tank from rusting.

Carbs- you should probably drain but that means drying out the seals, but six months would evaporate anything you put in there leaving residue.

If you have only a battery tender jr. it will not re-cycle after 28 days, you mat want to look into a more expensive one that restarts its cycle every couple of weeks so it is not on a constant trickle.

 

I like storing my bikes full of gas to help eliminate rusting in the tank. That said, you MUST run a double dose of STABIL (follow the intstructions) in the tank and run the bike for enough time to make sure that the stabilized gas has made it's way to the carbs/bowls. If possible, have someone start the bike once a month and run it to temperature (usually 5 mins). Battery tender plus is also a must, put it on a timer so it cycles on/off daily to "reset" the charging cycle.

If you want to go no gas option as mentioned, make sure everything is fully drained incl the carb bowls and fog everything (tank, carbs) with ACF50 ( ACF-50 - Pacific Corrosion Products) including the inside of the tank. Would also remove plugs, fog and replace. Cover the bike with rags and a quality cotton/canvas cover and put on it's center stand and/or secure it to something to help prevent tipover.

 

There are mixed reviews on storing gas tanks full or empty. I'm a believer in the empty. (Unless you're lucky enough to find a gas station that doesn't have ethanol in it).

Here's the short version. Ethanol is alcohol. Alcohol attracts water quicker than gas. Using E10 gas, in as little as a month, "phase" separation will start taking place. That's where the water that is attracted to the Ethanol starts separating. This can occur due to high humidity, condensation from temperature changes, being in a generally moist area (such as by a lake, ocean, etc.). So the school of thought about having a full tank of gas is that there is less room to allow condensation to occur. But when it does occur, since water is heavier than gas, all the water sinks to the bottom of the tank. When you fire up the motor for the first time, the water is the first thing to get sucked in.

Once phase separation begins, it CANNOT be reversed. There are products out there such as Sta-Bil and StarTron that will prevent phase separation. Adding it after the fact will not help. But note that these products don't change an octane level, so after 6 months, a year, etc. the octane level of the gas will have certainly dropped.

Issue #2 is that, once again, since ethanol is alcohol, it has a tendency to dry rubber and other parts out. Gas lines, gaskets, etc are all susceptible to this. Even the smallest spec of a gasket or rubber washer that dries out, breaks free, and gets caught in any component of the fuel system is going to be a problem. So even if you treat your fuel, damage from the Ethanol is inevitable over the course of time.

Additionally, if phase separation occurs and the water starts to build up internally, this will lead to rust starting to form. I think we've all seen enough threads on this forum discussing rust and other "junk" in a fuel tank.

For me, I'd go with an empty tank if possible, but I can't tell you how to get the very last bit out. Remove the petcock, maybe? I know the marine industry sells cans of fogging fluid that you can spry in your carbs and cylinders that prevent it from rusting, varnishing, or other contaminants forming. I'm not sure if this is applicable to motorcycles, so if you check into this, its "buyer beware".

At the very least, if you are going to store it with gas, make sure you put an adequate dosage of treatment in there, and run your bike for at least 10 to fifteen minutes to make sure its through all the lines, hoses and carbs.

Good luck, and thanks for your service. Be safe because we expect you back soon.

 

Thanks for the support and suggestions gang. I'm going with the all empty route mainly because everything sold around here has at least 10% ethanol. I like the ACF50 idea and I think I'll look into that. Seems a lot of people use it for riding year round. Now I just have to find a place that sells it locally. Thanks again.

 

I'm getting ready to put my '86 up for a few months (cast on left wrist = no riding till late August).

I'm going to drain the tank & spray the inside with WD (less smoke when starting it back up) & close it up tight, including pinching the vent tube. The carbs get drained out the bottom - seals are 1 yr old so no worries there. Oil is fresh, coolant topped off and chain freshly sprayed with chain wax. The battery is disconnected, and set up on the tender.

If I were going to store it for any longer I'd the fully drain the coolant & oil, not a requirement just a personal preference.

 

If I were storing a bike until August, but was going to be around it, I'd just start it and warm it up every couple weeks. 3 months is nothing.. up here it the snow belt they are usually stored 4-5 every year. I typically top off the tank, throw in some stabil and run it a few minutes, and take the battery out, and that's it. Never had an issue.

 

For what it's worth, before storing all of my bikes (street and dirt) for the winter, I siphon out as much gas as I can, then run the engine to get the rest out of there including what's in the carbs (FI on '07). This has always worked for me. My basement is a constant 68 degrees and my bikes have always started right up when pulled out of storage. I just pulled the CRF50 out after sitting for 5 years so that my 5 year old twins could learn to ride and it fired up on the first kick. I too have a VF1000R and this is the procedure I follow for it as well.

 

To drain the remaining fuel, remove the Fuel Reserve Sensor from the bottom of the tank. It is held in place by four hex nuts. Before reinstalling it, be sure to clean around the gasket and lube it with a little grease.

 

Throw an old t-shirt into the tank to soak up the remaining fuel, easiest way to do it.

I'd be hesitant to follow a.p.u.'s suggestion above cuz messing with a gasket could start a leak.