engine mounting bolt stuck - ideas?

Look at the parts diagram for this bolt. It shouldn't be such a major issue. It doesn't surprise me though.



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Too true NCB.

So on that note and to the OP

Make sure when you re-install the new engine and engine bolts that they (the engine bolts) are cleaned off (I just use brake cleaner) and then when the solvent flashes off or I wipe it off I put a nice light even coat of lithium soap based grease (red in color) on them when re-installing. That way this won't happen again.

Hanging out with someone who knows how to correctly work on bikes has paid big dividends.

BZ

ps-If the bolts have alot of white powdery stuff on them if take them over to the wire wheel and clean that crap off first.

 

Partly correct.

Clean the bolt and lubricate.
But the white powdery substance is aluminum chlorides from the aluminum engine case. That needs to have that corrosion stopped by cleaning and putting some phosphoric acid in the hole to stop the corrosion.
Or you can use aluma-prep from West Marine (same thing but has some wetting agents in it).

Rinse the aluminum with water and spray with WD40 and put in your clean lubricated steel bolt.

HOW do you clean the hole in the case?
A wire brush for cleaning the inside of battery cables on a long rod?

 

how about a gun cleaning bore brush works pretty good at cleaning those pesky holes

 

BZ.... you have to do it Donald's way...... everything else people do is just plaln wrong...get on the band wagon my good man......:crazy:

 

Excellent creative idea Crustyrider!!

 

So what happened with this bolt thing?

 

Only just seen this thread. Had the same problem earlier in the year with my VFR800 FiX 1999. Lost 3rd gear and found a great replacement engine on ebay with 11K for £100! Only problem was that long engine mounting bolt! Spent a week trying to free it with heat, brute force and ignorance. Eventually drilled out both ends with increasing size of drillbits - got through a lot of these and went off centre a little making frame hole a trifle oval! The last edges of bolt I managed to cut off with a single hacksaw blade between frame and engine case by wedging out frame slightly with cold chisel to give me enough room to get hacksaw blade in. With all other bolts free engine eventually came out! Remnants of old bolt still in engine case. Took several days of effort, curses, bleeding hands and patience. Old engine currently on UK ebay as parts for £65. Look at the pictures if you want to see the damage!! New engine now in and going great, but a horrible job and so easily avoided with some copper grease. Advice to all VFR800 owners: slackening off this bolt now, remove it and grease it if you have a long term attachment to the bike! How did you get on Phil?

 

When I changed my engine I encounter the same thing. I welded on a large nut. That did two things, gave me a gripping surface and the heat of the welding broke down the corrosion. Nice thing about welding is that it puts a lot of heat on only one part (for a minute anyway), a propane torch spreads the heat around and lets face it it doesnt get as hot. The welder creates a local area hot enough to melt steel.

If you want to try cold get a can of keyboard/computer compressed air. Spray it with the can upside down. You will get a frost ball. Maybe if you used your propane torch on the nut and tried freezing the bolt after you might stress the corrosion.

Agreed, they didn't use any anti seize on them, but I did.
Good luck.

 

I thought for sure you would get all puffed up about how grease on threads effects the torquing of fasteners....


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Grease on threads DOES effect the torque on the nut or bolt.
It increases the torque by 10%.